Travels & Traditions: Aachen, Germany - #705

BURT WOLF: The city of Aachen lies in the most western part of Germany and borders with Belgium and the Netherlands. Ancient Celtic families liked the neighborhood and so did the Romans. But what really put Aachen on the map were the kings of the Franks. The Franks were German-speaking people who invaded Western Europe. And the superstar of the Franks was a guy named Charlemagne who came to power at the end of the 700s.

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: Charlemagne was more than just a warrior king. In his court in Aachen he collected some of the great intellectuals of his time. And he was interested in bettering the welfare of his people: the rule of law, promoting education and religious reform.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Charlemagne had created a super-state by bringing together all of the Christian communities in Western Europe, it stretched from Denmark to Hungary. But his favorite city and the seat of his royal household was Aachen.

BURT WOLF: And the Cathedral that he built for his court is still standing.

DR. HEIKE NELSEN-MINKENBERG ON CAMERA: When this church was built, in the 8th century, it was for 200 years the highest building north of the Alps, because only in Italy, in the ancient Roman Empire, people were able to build architecture of this height and of this kind. So we think Charlemagne took the man who constructed this church from Italy to Aachen to build this church.

We’ve got an octagonal room in the middle, and its character reminds us to Eastern churches, because Charlemagne looked to the mighty emperor of Bisons, to the churches he built when he chose the design for his church here in Aachen.

I want to show you the so-called Barbarossa chandelier. A chandelier which looks like a crown. It’s a donation of Fredrick Barbarossa the Emperor and his wife, Beatrice. And it was given to the cathedral for the scarification of Charlemagne in 1165. In medieval Europe, we have to imagine many of these chandeliers in every big church, in every important basilica or cathedral, was a chandelier like that. But in our days, only three of them are left. And this one is the one which is best preserved, and so it’s the most important chandelier of the Middle Ages still existing.

Most visitors are very astonished when they see Charlemagne’s throne, because in comparison to the precious things we’ve seen beneath, it’s very archaic, it’s very simple.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Modest, to say the least. Just stones.

DR. HEIKE NELSEN-MINKENBERG ON CAMERA: Yes. But very special stones. The throne was built from stone which came from Jerusalem as a present to him from the grave of Jesus. So the throne was built from these holy items and didn’t need any more decoration.

DR. HEIKE NELSEN-MINKENBERG ON CAMERA: That’s the pulpit of the cathedral. And it’s 1,000 years old. And it’s so precious because during the mass of his coronation, the king had to read from the Bible. And he read from the Bible at the pulpit. And so, king and emperor, Henry II, gave this very precious pulpit to the cathedral so that the other kings who were crowned after him had such a precious place to read.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: So, the kings actually stood up there and read from the Bible.

DR. HEIKE NELSEN-MINKENBERG ON CAMERA: Yes. They did.

BURT WOLF: Charlemagne made Aachen the capital of what we now call Europe and for hundreds of years it was the city in which rulers of Germany were crowned.

Precious relics were brought to Aachen by Charlemagne and placed in his imperial chapel. After his death hundreds of thousands of pilgrims came to Aachen to see them.

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: In the Christian tradition there are two types of relics. One, the remains from a saint's body, such as bone. The other is an object that has been touched to a saint’s body such as a piece of cloth.

DR. HEIKE NELSEN-MINKENBERG ON CAMERA: The church of Aachen is an important place for pilgrims, because of the four holy relics which are in the shrine of Mary. The four holy items and the clothes in which the body of John the Baptist was wrapped, a dress of Mary, the cloth which Jesus wore when he was crucified, and the pampers of Jesus.

BURT WOLF: The great pilgrimages to Aachen and other sacred sites in Europe started during the 1300s and were known as Shrine Pilgrimages. To a considerable extent these journeys were the forerunners of today’s holiday travel. You took a break from your normal day-to-day life and headed off to see something new. During the past few years sacred travel has become one of the fastest growing parts of the tourist business and you don’t have to look far to understand why.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Every once in a while I wonder what life is all about. At which point I know it’s time for me to reestablish a more spiritual relationship with the world around me. And one of the best ways I know for doing that is to take a trip to a sacred place. Kind of a mini pilgrimage. It always resets my clock.

TOWN SQUARE

BURT WOLF: The center of Aachen is the town square and it tells the story of Aachen’s history for the past 650 years. Originally, it was part of an important road that connected Rome to the Netherlands and was used as a stopping point and a market place. It’s still a market place where local farmers from Germany, Belgium and the Netherlands come to sell their goods.

In the middle of the market is Aachen’s oldest fountain. It was cast in 1620 and presents Charlemagne holding the symbols of his office.

The buildings around the square were once the homes of Aachen's richest families.

The Lowenstein House is the show-piece of the square. It’s named after Anna Lowenstein who built it in 1344.

The building that houses the Goldener Einhorn Restaurant dates back to the middle Ages and was a hotel for pilgrims visiting the shrine at Aachen.

Across the square is the Postwagen building which is one of the few remaining structures made of wood and probably the oldest. Today it contains a restaurant serving the local specialties of the area.

On one side of the square is Aachen’s ancient Town Hall. It was originally built in the 1300s and its foundation and dimensions are identical with Charlemagne’s old Royal Hall.

Inside are a set of frescos that tell the story of Charlemagne’s life. Even during his lifetime, Charlemagne was called the father of Europe, particularly of France and Germany.

The hall also contains the crown jewels, well; actually they are copies of the crown jewels. Just before Napoleon invaded Aachen in 1794, the Crown Jewels were sent to the Emperor of Austria with a note that said keep these jewels safe. But the Emperor misread the note, he thought it read "keep these jewels in your safe" and today they are still there. It’s all about penmanship.

HOT SPRINGS ETERNAL

BURT WOLF: The name of Aachen refers back to the ancient Celtic god of healing and the god of hot spring waters. Roman soldiers were particularly attracted to hot springs and often built settlements nearby. The salts in the hot water increased the buoyancy of their bodies and helped relieve their pain and exhaustion. The troops felt that they were floating back to health.

BURT WALKING ON CAMERA: It was the hot springs that originally attracted Charlemagne to the area. But he was not the only big name to come to Aachen. Casanova came here on three separate occasions, but he was always cleverly disguised during his visit. Didn’t want anybody to know that his sexual powers were being medically enhanced. And the Empress Josephine came here because she was having problems conceiving a child with the Emperor Napoleon. Fortunately however Josephine and Casanova were never here at the same time.

BURT WOLF: For centuries mineral springs were thought to have magical powers that could heal the sick. Sometimes the magic was attributed to the water and sometimes to powerful spirits who were thought to live in the water. It really didn’t make any difference to the people who came for relief as long as they got better.

The original springs in Aachen contain hydrogen sulfate with an odor you will recognize because it smells like rotten eggs. People drink it and bath in it and give it credit for an assortment of cures.

WERNER SCHLÖSSER ON CAMERA: Our water contains a lot of sulfur and if you had an operation for example at the knee or at the hip, then you can train in the water or you do special exercises and that will help you on walking again.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: During the 1800s the hot spring became a preferred hangout of the rich and famous. They felt that a couple of weeks at a spa would rejuvenate their health. The problem was the environment in a spa was very relaxed and open. And theses guests, totally on their own, and away from their families, were getting into hot water.

THE FOUNTAINS OF AACHEN

BURT WOLF: For thousands of years, people have believed that any place where water came up from the earth was sacred and those spots were often surrounded by fountains or temples. Sabine Mathieu took me on a tour of Aachen’s fountains.

SABINE MATHIEU ON CAMERA: Okay. Here we meet the hot spring water coming directly from the source. This spring is coming from 1500 meters and it is sent the earth with a temperature of 52.8 degrees. And it arrives here with a temperature nearly 50 degrees. It loses a little bit in the pipeline, but it is really hot.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: That’s centigrade. Fahrenheit it’s about 85 degrees.

SABINE MATHIEU ON CAMERA: Yes. But it is you smell it? A little stinky. And taste it. It’s a very...

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Oh it’s a lot stinky yes.

SABINE MATHIEU ON CAMERA: Yes, it’s sulfured water and it is a very salty water. But it is very good against illnesses of the skin yes. And it doesn’t smell anymore. It’s not true; yes it’s like old eggs I know.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Yes.

SABINE MATHIEU ON CAMERA: Here we have one of the nicest fountains of Aachen. The Puppet Fountain. An invitation for the big and the little children to play with the figures.

This young lady is representing fashion industry and the drape industry. We have for since a thousand years in Aachen.

And she’s representing the needle industry. And here we have the Bishop representing the cathedral and the Catholic Church.

And then we have a very nice wife over there. She is a very sympathetic wife. Oh no, she’s not representing the dentists of Aachen. Oh no, she’s representing the clever wives of Aachen. Because she is a market wife, and she’s representing commerce. Commercial times began in 1166 when Frederick Red Beard gave us the town right and the right to have a market here in Aachen. And you see she’s clutching the money.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Clutching the money.

SABINE MATHIEU ON CAMERA: Yea.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Clutching the money.

SABINE MATHIEU ON CAMERA: Yea. The clever Aachen woman.

And let's go onto the most important man of Aachen. The scientific man, the teacher of the University. A professor who is representing our main polytechnical university with 29,000 students and our academy’s also have 8,000 students from all countries in the world. Do you know that every car engine of Germany has been constructed in Aachen?

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: No. And there’s the teacher who taught them how to do it.

SABINE MATHIEU ON CAMERA: Yea, that’s the reason why we are so. Yea there’s the teacher of university.

AACHEN UNIVERSITY

BURT WOLF: One of Charlemagne’s objectives was to make Aachen a cultural and educational center. Accordingly, he brought some of Europe’s most talented scholars to the city. His vision is still in operation at the Rhineland-Westphalia Technical University. It has transformed the region into a focal point for researchers working on automobile technology, laser development, and medicine, as well as the design and manufacturing of microchips. INTERNATIONAL NEWSPAPER MUSEUM

BURT WOLF: Aachen’s intellectual environment is also reflected in the city’s International Newspaper Museum which is based in the house where in 1850 Israel Reuter established the Reuters News Service.

The building contains over 170,000 newspapers with the earliest examples dating back to the 1600’s.

ANDREAS DÜSPOHL ON CAMERA: We are, we are now in the International Newspaper Museum of Aachen, which was founded in the year 1886, by a man called Oscar von Forckenbeck, who started to collect newspapers from all over the world. And when he died, he gave all the newspapers that he collected to the city of Aachen, who chose this house to display all these newspapers.

The oldest newspaper that we have in our stock is from 1609 and we also have the oldest daily newspaper that was published in Leipzig in the year 1650.

The newspapers that we have show that the press has always been controlled by authorities. And especially in years of war newspapers were of course used for propaganda reasons. And in one of the displays you can see some newspapers where the French authorities have actually censored a newspaper freshly.

Also we display a couple of newspapers which deal with important historical events. For instance, the assassination of Kennedy, or the death of Sir Winston Churchill. Or the events related to the German reunification.

WHAT’S COOKING

BURT WOLF: In the late 1700s, a French revolutionary army occupied Aachen and incorporated the town into the French empire. Napoleon had a soft spot for the city, since he considered himself the cultural descendent of Charlemagne and believed that like Charlemagne he would unite all of Europe under one rule.

BURT ON CAMERA: But Aachen’s time under French influence had some very positive benefits. The destructive guild system was dissolved. Currency was standardized. Transportation and the economy improved. But for me the most important French influence that still remains here in Aachen can be found in a small, almost hidden, restaurant.

BURT WOLF: It’s named Maier-Peveling's and its specialty is a typical German fast-food called a “currywurst”. Currywurst was invented in Berlin in 1949 and consists of a grilled Bratwurst sausage, covered with ketchup that has been laced with curry. It is traditionally served with French fried potatoes and a bread roll.

Maier-Peveling's was designed to represent the ultimate in currywurst culture. The sausages are made daily from the owners’ family recipe. The French fries, which are truly outstanding, are made to order and served with six different sauces that are made in an elegant French restaurant, also owned by the family. The only sauce they don’t make is the tomato ketchup which is Heinz---some things just can’t be improved upon.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Hello. This is the wurst connection I ever had.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: And as long as we are talking about what’s cooking in Aachen, allow me to introduce you to printen. The word printen comes from the English word to print, but in Aachen it is a reference to a spicy, sweet, flat, hard cookie that is made in a mold.

BURT WOLF: They were developed by an Aachen baker about 300 years ago and became the favorite of the pilgrims.

The Klein Printen Bakery is one of the most respected in Aachen.

ULLA KLEIN ON CAMERA: We sell very different kinds of printen. The original one is the Kräuterprinten, with spices. You see it here, with almonds on it. And there are different sorts of printen, different kinds with chocolates, with nuts, white chocolate, or milk chocolate on it. And different forms, they taste very delicious.

BURT WOLF: Printens have an interesting taste, they’re nourishing, easy to carry around and they don’t get stale for months. These days, the bakers of Aachen produce over 4,500 tons of Printen each year.

And this is the Cafe Van Den Daele which was founded by a Belgian pastry chef.

It consists of four historic buildings---the oldest dates to1655.

Because each building was built at a different time and designed to meet the needs of a different family the inside rooms are connected by staircases and steps that lead in and out of seven different rooms. Picturesque for the patrons not that much fun for the waiters. The original baker was a collector of furniture, pictures and baking tins which are still on display.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: The restaurant menu has a number of classic German dishes. But they’ve each been given a slight twist that makes them quite interesting. This is sauerbraten, its beef that's been marinated in vinegar and wine for a couple of days, and then roasted. Then the marinade is used to make a sauce. But when they’re making the sauce here they add printen cookies which gives it a gingerbread sweetness.

This is a rolled beef dish. The beef is filled with sautéed onions, bacon, and pesto sauce and served with sauerkraut and roasted potatoes. Very nice.

BURT WOLF: Van Den Daele is considered to be one of the finest cafes in Germany and particularly famous for its baked goods.

HANS-PETER MEIER ON CAMERA: Well the most popular one is this one. It’s called Belgium Rice Cake. And the best way to eat it when it’s warm coming out of the bakery. This is very popular. Especially in summer because it’s with the fruits. This is with apple and almond. And number three, again something for summer with seasonal fruits. For example, here we have a rice with strawberries.

BURT WOLF: What is that cake you’re hiding behind you?

HANS-PETER MEIER ON CAMERA: Well this is my top favorite maybe. It’s a French Apple Tart. It’s very thin with apple of course. Very tasty, very sweet, it’s just delicious.

WORLD EQUESTRIAN FESTIVAL

BURT WOLF: Every year in June hundreds of thousands of visitors come to Aachen for one week to admire the horses at the World Equestrian Festival. The competition includes everything from show jumping to carriage driving.

Horses have been in the neighborhood for at least 30,000 years and it was Charlemagne’s horse pawing the ground that uncovered the hot springs that made Aachen Charlemagne’s favorite town. Charlemagne himself was passionate about breeding horses.

At the end of the festival everyone celebrates, music, dancing and a promise to return next year.

For Travels & Traditions, I’m Burt Wolf.

 

Travels & Traditions: Cologne, Germany - #704

BURT WOLF: Cologne was built by the ancient Romans in 38AD at a point where the Rhine River crossed a major east-west trade route. It was an ideal spot for commercial development and by the Middle Ages Cologne had become the largest and one of the richest towns in northern Europe.

Today, it's home to the largest university in Germany with more than 60,000 students living and from time to time even studying in the city. 

In general, the citizens of Cologne have done a good job of preserving and honoring their art and architecture.

A thousand-year-old Romanesque church in the middle of a shopping street that was put up in the 1980s. It's an unusual mixture of the very old next to the very new.

Since the Middle Ages Cologne has been a religious center and a destination for pilgrims. Pilgrims came from all over Europe to visit “Holy Cologne”, and the city’s great pilgrimage site was its Gothic cathedral. Even today, over five million visitors come here each year, which has made the Cathedral Germany’s main tourist attraction.

These days, more and more people are using their vacation time to make a pilgrimage, but a pilgrimage is really designed for more than just holiday travel. A pilgrimage is also a sacred journey. It’s a way of healing yourself. Physically you travel to a new place, but the big voyage is the one you make inside, the one that might transform you. 

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: To really understand the medieval cathedral, you have to understand the medieval Christian's vision of life as a journey, as even a pilgrimage, and how different that was to what had come before. The medieval Christian didn't think about a golden age in the past. He wasn't interested in getting back to the Garden of Eden because he was on a journey to something completely new, the new heavenly Jerusalem and the place on earth where he could glimpse where his journey was headed was within the cathedral. The massive walls of the cathedral divided the outside, the worldly and secular from the inside, the heavenly and the holy. And the way to enter into this sacred space were through the great western door of the cathedral often called the Gate of Heaven where you could see the angels and saints depicted over the doorway, and on the doors themselves you often saw scenes from the life of Christ, the journey which the believer, too, had to follow, if he, like Christ, was to follow and meet him in heaven. 

DR. KLAUS HARDERING ON CAMERA: Cologne Cathedral is the largest Gothic Cathedral we have in Europe. It's kind of high point in the development of Gothic architecture.

BURT WOLF: Construction began during the 1200's and did not finish up until the 1880s. A time span of over 600 years.

DR. KLAUS HARDERING: The choir stalls are the largest in Germany we have of that Gothic period. And they are richly carved. There are more than 500 figures and reliefs. We made an examination of the wood material so we can say all those things must have been carved between 1308 and 1311, that means within 4 years.

In the mosaic floor there is a representation of the wheel of life. It's shown that a young man is going to move that wheel with all his power, he reaches the high point of his life as a rich man, he can give alms to the poor but the wheel moves on and he looses his hold so he falls down, all his money is lost, he wants to stop the movement of the wheel but he can't.

We have almost 10,000 square meters of stained glass windows inside Cologne Cathedral and about 1,300 are original Gothic. So that's a treasure because we don’t have so much medieval glass in Germany. In 1939, that means in the first year of the Second World War they were taken out. So they survived the Second World War.

We have several funeral monuments of tombs of Cologne archbishops and they

are normally placed in the so-called choir chapels. One of the most important funeral monuments is the tomb of Archbishop Conrad von Hochstaden who laid the foundation stone in 1248 and he got a very beautiful bronze tomb. 

DR. KLAUS HARDERING ON CAMERA: In the chapel of St. John's you find a monumental medieval drawing, the largest we have in the world, more than 4 meters high and representing the main facade of Cologne Cathedral with the two monumental towers as they were built in the 19th Century but as they must have been planned in the Middle Ages because that drawing was made before 1283.

BURT WOLF: The Cathedral's greatest attraction for pilgrims is the gold shrine said to contain the remains of the three kings. In 1164 the Emperor Barbarossa, who was living in Milan, gave the remains of the three kings to the Archbishop of Cologne. As soon as he got them back to Cologne work began on a golden shrine to hold the relics. The shrine of the three kings became the most important pilgrimage site in northern Europe. 

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: In the New Testament, the three kings are referred to as wise men who traveled from a distant land to bring gifts to the Baby Jesus at his birth. In the Third Century, the Christian writer, Tertullian, refers to them as almost kings. And as time goes on, the "almost" disappears. The three kings are tremendously important for the development of Europe because, as time goes on in the West, they become identified with the Feast of the Epiphany which is the manifestation of Jesus as Lord to the Gentiles.

And this comes at a very important time in European history because during the Middle Ages Europe is beginning to see itself as a Christian society, even as the Christian society because the Holy Land now is under the control of the Muslims. The three kings also have an important political meaning. You might say, on their trip to Bethlehem, the three kings were on a divine mission, maybe even as divine agents. And if those three kings could be divine agents, then, maybe, kings in medieval Germany could also be divine agents and even have a kind of divine authority.

BURT WOLF: When the Three Kings discovered the Christ Child they gave him gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Frankincense and myrrh are gummy resins that were used to make perfumes that were part of religious services. During biblical times they were considered quite valuable.

They are still around but their value is considerably diminished. Gold however has kept its value quite well.

ST. URSULA

BURT WOLF: During the 400s, the Emperor Charlemagne made Cologne an archbishopric and since then the city has been an important religious center. It has 12 Romanesque churches that have been built on the graves of martyrs and early bishops.

One of the most interesting is St. Ursula’s.

Father Dominik Meiering is in charge of St. Ursula's

FATHER DOMINIK MEIERING: Well this is the wonderful church St. Ursula here in Cologne one of the twelve romantic churches. One of the most wonderful and one of the most important because here is the place where the 11,000 virgin martyrs are buried as the legend of St. Ursula tells us.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: The legend of St. Ursula goes like this.

Ursula was a British princess who lived during the 4th century and with a group of her friends made a pilgrimage to Rome. On her way back, she passed through Cologne, where she and her companions were murdered by a group of nomadic tribesman and generally unpleasant people, known as the Huns. 

BURT WOLF: In 1155, an ancient Roman burial ground was discovered and designated as the spot that contained the relics of the legend. Ursula was elevated to sainthood and became the patron of the Ursulines, a congregation of nuns dedicated to educating young girls.

FATHER DOMINIK MEIERING: The Golden Chamber as we call it here is a wonderful place. It is absolutely unique, it's a reliquary but very special because you enter into a place where many busts of the virgin martyr's with the skulls inside look onto you.

FATHER DOMINIK MEIERING ON CAMERA: That means you go into the place of holiness, you are surrounded by the holy spirit of all these people who are buried here. 

In the upper part we've got a decoration for you made out of bones. And there are even inscriptions you can read for example, Saint Ursula ora pro nobis, that means holy Ursula, pray for us, and this is built out of bones.

FATHER DOMINIK MEIERING & BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: You can find the relics, the bones not only here behind this Gothic architecture but you can find it also here in the hat, you can open the hat, and underneath this wooden plate, you find a skull of one of the virgins.

BURT WOLF: Wrapped in cloth.

FATHER DOMINIK MEIERING: Wrapped in cloth of the Middle Ages which is very precious. We have got in this church two old golden shrines. One is the relacory of St. Ursula and one is of Aetherius who was the man who should become the husband of St. Ursula.

FATHER DOMINIK MEIERING ON CAMERA: The specialty of Cologne is also that you have the possibility to go under the shrines.

FATHER DOMINIK MEIERING & BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: So now we can go underneath the shrines as the pilgrims of the Middle Ages

did and we can say our prayer and we can hope of the benediction of the saints and of God.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Very unusual to have it above you like that.

FATHER DOMINIK MEIERING ON CAMERA: Yes it is isn’t it?

EXCELSIOR HOTEL ERNST

BURT WOLF: The Excelsior Hotel Ernst directly across the street from the Cathedral was built in 1863. The owner was part of Cologne’s high society and the hotel became a favorite hangout for the rich and royal. It's an ideal spot for tourists and business travelers, the hotel is within walking distance of theaters, museums, concert halls and the opera. It offers excellent service and a high degree of individual attention with a number of Presidential suites.

I always wondered who stayed in these Presidential suites since most traveling Presidents stay in their embassies. I was recently reminded that corporations also have Presidents and many of them have bigger expense accounts than small nations.

The hotel is home to two of the best restaurants in the city.

The first is the Hanse Stube. The food has an upper class French accent and it has been awarded 16 points by the Gault Millau food guide.

The Excelsior Ernst is also home to an Asian restaurant call Taku.

Taku is a great idea. It’s one restaurant but it has four different cuisines.

One team of chefs prepares Japanese dishes. Another Chinese. The third is Thai.

And the fourth is Vietnamese.

And all the dishes are on the same menu. You can order from all four kitchens at the same time.

Besides being a religious center Cologne has been a cultural focal point for hundreds of years. Today, it has 118 galleries and 36 museums.

And the sweetest museum of all is the chocolate museum. Built in the shape of a futuristic ship, sitting on the banks of the Rhine, the three-story museum presents the history and technology of chocolate.

Martin van Almsick is the marketing rep ---- sweet guy.

MARTIN VAN ALMSICK ON CAMERA: This is the factory. It's the main attraction of the chocolate museum here. It can be part of an entire production line. We produce hollow figures, we produce pralinees, normal bars, all this you can see here.

BURT WOLF: What does this machine do?

MARTIN VAN ALMSICK ON CAMERA: Well here we are producing pralinees, it a mousse a chocolat filling, very nice and you can see here beautifully how it originally consisted of two halves.

BURT WOLF: Right.

MARTIN VAN ALMSICK ON CAMERA: The mold consists of two halves, we are stirring, spinning, and now we filled it with mousse a chocolat filling you can see that very nicely here and now we make a little decorative element here, we give it some chocolate marks on top so it looks nicer. Ice first they call it in English, we say _____ in German. Okay you see we fill it in here and give it a liquid chocolate mix over it.

What we do here is we turn it in circles, you could just as well do it with forks but this is of course more economical to do it like this with this machinery, you develop a very special design.

So Burt what we see here is the cooling tunnel. The pralinees are almost ready.

They have their coating, their design, but we need to cool it for another say 10 minutes or so. Then they come out on the other side and are ready to be shipped.

Burt what we see here are the ready to eat pralinees. This is the final product, looks beautifully.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Can I have one?

MARTIN VAN ALMSICK ON CAMERA: Sure help yourself, real nice aren’t they.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: And that's the coating?

MARTIN VAN ALMSICK ON CAMERA: That's the coating, mousse alla chocolat and it's surrounded by milk chocolate.

BURT WOLF: What holds it in place there?

MARTIN VAN ALMSICK: Oh this is the bliss that we call it.

BURT WOLF: Beautiful thank you.

MARTIN VAN ALMSICK ON CAMERA: This is our legendary chocolate fountain, the one and only 200 liters of liquid chocolate bars. It's paradise isn't it?!

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: And we dip.

MARTIN VAN ALMSICK ON CAMERA: We dip.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: This is known as hand dipping.

MARTIN VAN ALMSICK ON CAMERA: And if it's warm and fresh it's a lot better than normal supermarket chocolate. Can you tell the difference? This must be paradise huh, 200 liters of liquid chocolate and it's great.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: I'll go for a swim later.

MARTIN VAN ALMSICK ON CAMERA: Yea, help yourself.

BURT WOLF: The entire place is in keeping with Cologne’s history. The scientific name for chocolate is “Theobroma cacao”, which means “Food of the Gods”.

CHEERS

HEINRICH BECKER, JR N CAMERA: Cologne is famous for Kölsch which is the local beer. There are several different brands but they are always called Kölsch and it can only be produced within Cologne. Naturally it's being shipped all over the world. We sell it the United States and in China and Russia but it's mostly being sold and of course it can only be reproduced here within the city boundaries.

It comes in an extremely small glasses, they are only 0.2 liters which is approximately 8 ounces of a glass which has an advantage of our competitors in Bavaria which drink out of the big steins because this beer always stays fresh. The waiter always keeps bringing you glasses until you've had enough but he doesn’t know when you've had enough so as a matter of fact you have to take this little coaster here and put it on top of your glass, then when he's walking around through the restaurant he would actually see that you've been served, literally.

EAU DE COLOGNE

BURT WOLF: Even before I knew there was a city named Cologne I knew the word Cologne from the bottle of Eau de Cologne on my mother's dresser.

Eau de Cologne is French for water of Cologne which is a form of light perfume. It was originally developed in 1709. It’s primary ingredient is alcohol which is mixed with citrus oil and herbs. The objective was to make a perfume that smelled like a spring morning in Italy, after a rain. Napoleon was a big fan of the perfume.

In 1794, a French army under Napoleon occupied Cologne. At the time, houses were not marked with numbers, which was a constant source of frustration for the French General in charge of the city. So he sent his troops out to mark each building with a number. The number 4711 was assigned to a house where a family was making their own version of Eau de Cologne and it's became a world wide brand. 

The manufacturing process consists of mixing a series of scented oils into alcohol and letting the blend steep for a least three months.

During the 1950s, the company began using television commercials to promote its products.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Eau de Cologne was originally sold as a medicine that would cure every known illness and it was made from a secret formula. Secret formulas are fascinating. They give the holder the power to alter the forces of destiny to change his fate. It’s like giving somebody a hit of love potion number nine. It’s magic.

THE FIFTH SEASON

BURT WOLF: For almost 2,000 years, this city has been celebrating the Feast of Saturn in one form or another. Cologne's Carnival is known as the “Fifth Season”, and it has become world famous for the “three mad days” at the height of the celebration. Every year on Rose Monday more than a million people watch the Rose Monday Parade as it winds its way through the streets of the city.

Carnival is always chaotic: it turns life upside-down. It destroys the structure of daily life---people are encouraged to cross over barriers, break rules and violate customs

---Carnival literally demands excess. It's a time to make fun of famous people, respected cultural symbols and traditional social events. It is a time to satirize everything the society values. But the party only last for a short time.

To a certain extent, Carnival is designed to show people that chaos is not what they want to live with on a regular basis. And that a structure is essential for the survival of a community, and at the end of Carnival a structure is always reestablished.

For Travels & Traditions, I’m Burt Wolf.

Travels & Traditions: Vatican City - #703

BURT WOLF: On October 16th 1978, Karol Wojtyla entered a small room in St Peter’s Basilica, put on a white robe, a short red cape and a white scull cap. A few minutes later he stood at a balcony facing St. Peter’s Square. He had become John Paul II, the 264th

Pope, the spiritual leader of one out of every five people on the planet. As “the Holy Father”, he headed an institution that had outlasted the Roman Empire, encompassed more territory than the lands of Alexander the Great and had a more significant impact on history than the dynasties of Spain, France and England combined. He could influence the behavior of government officials in their anti-rooms, corporations in their boardrooms and private citizens in their bedrooms.

I wanted to know why the Papacy became so important. What it’s been doing for the past 2000 years and what was it going to be doing in the future.

IN THE BEGINNING

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: The first thing I learned is that the history of the Papacy is not just the history of the Catholic Church. The story of the Papacy is actually an essential part of the history of the entire world.

BURT WOLF: Christ was a traveling rabbi who preached in Palestine. His life on earth, death and resurrection were seen as having been prophesized in the sacred books of Judaism. His followers were centralized in Jerusalem but within a decade of his death, Christianity began spreading throughout the Middle East. The primary messenger was St. Paul.

Paul was a well-educated Roman citizen who believed that Christ’s message was not only for the Jews. Paul taught that Christianity offered everyone the opportunity to be reconciled with God. Paul was the messenger of the early Church but not the leader.

That was the responsibility of Peter, a fisherman from Galilee who became the spokesman for the Apostles. 

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: To understand the Papacy, I think we have to begin by understanding the Apostles. These are Disciples of Jesus that he chose, and then he commissioned to go out into the world and teach. So essentially, the Papacy is a teaching office. But then Peter has something else.

Peter from the beginning is seen as someone who has received revelation from the Father, and a special commission and authority from the Son. And so he's seen at the beginning as the head of the Church in Jerusalem. He goes to Rome and is seen as the head of the Church in Rome. And this special status is respected from the very beginning. 

BURT WOLF: At the time, Rome was the center of the Empire and had a thriving Jewish population of about 50,000. They were in close touch with the Jews of Palestine and were well aware of the events surrounding Christ.

MONSIGNOR WILLIAM A. KERR ON CAMERA: The Jewish Diaspora had Jewish peoples living all over the Roman Empire, but many had migrated and settled in Rome. There was a strong Jewish community, a section of Rome almost, that was Jewish, and these persons were integrated into the Empire, they were powerful, they were significant. But they were also held in suspicion by the Romans. They became interested early on in what was going on in Jerusalem, they became interested in the Christ, they began to convert to Christianity, and when Peter and Paul came to them, they were welcomed by these people.

They were curious, they wanted to hear what Peter and Paul had to say, but they also wanted to be instructed by them. 

BURT WOLF: Christianity was spreading quickly and the Emperor Nero took notice of both Peter and Paul. He was offended by their teachings and in the middle of the first century had them put to death. But that did little to stop the growth of Christianity. The followers of Christ continued to practice their faith.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: They met in private homes and market places. There was no single individual in charge and many conflicting opinions as to what was the “true” faith. It became increasingly apparent that a more structured approach was necessary. The answer became the Papacy a single bishop carrying on the tradition of St Peter.

VATICAN CITY

BURT WOLF: Today Rome’s Vatican City is the epicenter of the Papacy. With a population of only 550 and a landmass of just over 100 acres, it’s the world’s smallest independent state. It has its own newspaper with an international circulation. Its own book publisher. Its own television network. Its own police force. Its own stamps and a postal service to go along with them.

It also has its own radio station that went on the air in 1931.

ANNOUNCER: The Pope for the first time in the nineteen hundred years Catholicism has sent his voice throughout the world. With this broadcast his Holiness celebrates the ninth anniversary of his coronation as Pope Pius the XI…

BURT WOLF: It was one of the first international stations and was actually built by Marconi who was the inventor of wireless communication.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: The world Vatican comes from a Latin word meaning prophecy and during Roman times Vatican Hill was a place where fortune-tellers would offer their advice, for a fee, to the general public.

BURT WOLF: During the first century a racetrack was built nearby and used by the emperor Nero to stage elaborate spectacles. His favorite was killing Christians.

Nero’s circus is gone, replaced by St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican. It was built in 1656 and is almost the same size as the ancient Roman Forum. It’s partially enclosed by two semicircular colonnades. Above the colonnades are statues of saints and martyrs.

The double-colonnades symbolize the outstretched arms of the Church, welcoming and protecting the faithful. It is considered to be one of the worlds finest examples of civic architecture and can hold over 250,000 people.The square is the approach to St. Peter’s Basilica.

ST. PETER’S BASILICA

BURT WOLF: Historians believe that the basilica was built right next to the spot where St. Peter was martyred. As a condemned criminal he was not permitted a normal burial so his remains were secretly recovered and placed in the public necropolis on Vatican Hill.

In 1940, workmen digging below the basilica found a burial chamber that dated to the first century. A small space below the chamber appeared to be the tomb of St. Peter. That belief is supported by an adjacent wall that is covered with the names of pilgrims asking for St. Peter’s help.

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: And then they found something very unusual, or, you might say they didn't find something they expected and that was there were no feet on the skeleton. And you remember, Saint Peter was crucified upside down, so they surmise the easiest way for the Romans to take him down was simply to cut him off at the feet and let the body drop. Peter had chosen a successor, Linus, as the next Bishop of Rome, and it was Linus who took the body, and with colleagues, buried it.

BURT WOLF: At the beginning of the 4th century, Constantine, was the emperor of Rome and believed that a dream with a vision of the cross gave him an important military victory. He converted and made Christianity the official religion of the empire.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Constantine’s conversion may or may not have been heartfelt, but it was definitely part of his big plan, he did everything he could to advance the Christians standing within the Romans and at the same time everything he could to advance his own standing with the Christians.

BURT WOLF: In 323, he ordered the construction of a huge basilica designed to sit directly above the cemetery where the remains of St. Peter were buried.

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: It was a difficult project because number one he wanted to put the altar of the church right over the tomb of St. Peter which meant he had to cover a pagan cemetery which was sacred ground and aristocracy was buried there so very controversial. Secondly it’s on a hillside. He’s got to move tons of earth and third he’s got a stream moving through it. So he’s got to work around the stream. In any event he builds the Basilica but he goes through all of that effort, all of that controversy, because he wants the Basilica over the tomb of St. Peter. Why, because St. Peter is so revered by the early church.

BURT WOLF: Additional churches and monasteries were constructed alongside the basilica, as well as buildings to house and feed the thousands of pilgrims who came to pay tribute to St. Peter. The basilica itself stood up to continual use for 1200 years. 

But during the 1400s it began to disintegrate and a plan was developed for a new structure. Michelangelo built a 16-foot high model of the dome so he could make a series of stress tests. His dome was 137 feet wide and 440 feet above the floor of the basilica. He was an artist, an architect and an engineer.

Work got under way in 1450 but like most construction projects it ran over budget. To help raise the needed funds the Church offered to pray for your well being in the afterlife in exchange for a meaningful donation during your present life. Some people considered this scandalous and it became a major irritant for Martin Luther. Construction on St. Peter’s also ran a little late. The opening dedication took place in 1626---226 years after workers began digging the foundation.

Today St. Peter’s Basilica is the largest Christian church in the world.

THE SISTINE CHAPEL

BURT WOLF: In 1508, Pope Julius II entered his private chapel. Walking next to him was Michelangelo, considered to be one of the greatest artists of the time. The Pope pointed to the ceiling, looked at Michelangelo and said, “Paint it.” Michelangelo spent the next four years of his life standing on a scaffold and painting a fresco. He even made sketches of himself at work.

A fresco is produced by putting fresh plaster on a surface and then painting a picture on the plaster. The artist uses paints that are made from colored powder mixed with water. When the water dries out the powder sets into the plaster. The color becomes a permanent part of the wall or in this case the ceiling. It’s the perfect medium for large murals, but it’s a difficult technique. The painter must work fast, completing a section before the plaster is dry and mistakes cannot be corrected by overpainting. Make a mistake and you must start again with fresh plaster.

The fresco on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel is considered to be one of the greatest works of art. It presents events from the Old Testament.

The Popes were good clients for Michelangelo, and Pope Paul III brought him back to paint the west wall of the chapel. He was eighty years old.

Today the Sistine Chapel is the room used by the Sacred College of Cardinals when they meet to elect a new Pope.

PRESERVATION AND RESTORATION

BURT WOLF: On the night of August 10th 1992, a section of the mosaic covering the dome of the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament broke off and fell 400 feet to the floor below. Rainwater had seeped into the ceiling and weakened the glue that held the mosaic chips to the dome. Fortunately, no one was hurt, but a restoration program was needed and it had to begin immediately.

A mosaic is made by taking pieces of colored glass, marble or stone and pasting them onto a surface that has been prepared with glue. The ancient Romans learned the technique from the Greeks and used it to decorate their homes and temples.

By the third century mosaics were being used to present sacred images.

At the time, people were loosing interest in sculpture and the mosaic gradually took over as the most convincing way to picture a religious event.

When the great paintings inside St. Peter’s Basilica began to deteriorate in the 1600s they were recreated in mosaic. But if you didn’t know that and you didn’t look for the tiny stones, you’d think they were paintings.

The restoration program for the dome was undertaken by the Mosaic Studio of the Vatican. Its work dates back to the 1500s and it is considered to be the finest mosaic studio in the world. It also has the largest collection of the stones that are used to produce the works.

The artists have about 30,000 different colors to choose from and there are samples for each color. On the back of each chip is the identification number.

In the next room there are hundreds of bins filled with the tiles that are necessary to make the mosaic. Each number on the samples matches up with the numbers on the bins. Almost all of the tiles where made here in the Vatican mosaic studio. And many are hundreds of years old. 

Some of the tiny chips are stone, some are marble and some are glass. The glass chips are produced in the studio.

Small pieces of glass mixed with chemicals that give it color are fussed together at a temperature of 800 degrees centigrade.

The hot glass is pulled at both ends to produce a filament. A bladed hammer and a wedge of steel are used to cut the filament into the size and shape that the artist wants for a specific spot in the mosaic.

The mosaic on the dome was put in place in 1656 and presents the “The mystery of the Eucharist”.

The only way to work on it was to build a scaffold up to the vault.

Each section of the mosaic that needed repair was copied and coordinated on numbered sheets that were fixed to the vault. When the chips were reattached the bonding glue was made from an ancient recipe that combined marble dust, lime, and flax oil.

The restoration took almost two years and cost hundreds of thousands of dollars.

The funding came from The Knights of Columbus in the United States who were attracted to the project because of its cultural and artistic importance and because they felt it stood as a metaphor for life.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: They pointed out that a mosaic is made by placing one stone next to another stone until we have a masterwork and that life is similar. We place one minute next to the next minute until we are the masterwork of the Divine Artist. 

BONIFACE’S BONUS MILES

BURT WOLF: On the 22nd of April, in the year 1300, Pope Boniface VIII stood on the balcony of the Church of San Giovanni in Laterano and announced the first Jubilee Year. He had gotten the idea from the biblical book of Leviticus which described a jubilee year that took place every fifty years and required that all slaves be freed and all debts paid.

Pope Boniface declared that anyone who came to Rome during the Jubilee Year, confessed their sins and visited St. Peter’s would be pardoned from the temporal punishment that was due as a result of those sins.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: It was like saying to your kid, “You’re forgiven, but you still have to pay the consequences”. Not a free flight but definitely the ultimate bonus miles program. And everybody who could take advantage of the offer came to Rome. During that single year, over a million people visited this city.

BURT WOLF: The Church intended to mark every hundredth year as a Holy Year. But in 1334, the interval was shortened to 33 years, the length of the life of Christ. In 1464 Pope Paul II cut it down to 25 years. The quarter-century spacing has been in use ever since.

A Holy Year begins on the preceding Christmas Eve when the Pope opens the Holy Door, the Porta Santa of St. Peter’s. Traditionally the Pope would used aver hammer to knock down a temporary wall that was erected in front of the door, after that, the door was opened. But there are also special occasions that call for a Holy Year. 1983 was a Holy Year that marked 1,950 years since the crucifixion and resurrection of Christ.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: In 1500, the name was changed from Jubilee Year to Holy Year but the offer of forgiveness remained.

BURT WOLF: The visits enhance the image of the Papacy. People discovered the extraordinary buildings that had been commissioned by the Popes. They saw the art that came into being at the command of the Popes. They witnessed the pageantry that honored the saints. And they heard music that was specifically composed to lift the hearts of the faithful. They went back to their homes throughout Europe with a new awareness of the importance of the Papacy. More than any organization in the history of the world the Papacy has promoted tourism and tourism has promoted tolerance and understanding.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: In many ways the history of the Papacy is similar to the history of any large institution---you have your good days and your not so good days. Of course in the case of the Papacy you’re looking at centuries not days. Nevertheless, you can look back over its 2000-year history and see that it is clearly the source of some of our greatest achievements.

For Travels & Traditions, I'm Burt Wolf.

Travels & Traditions: Christmas in Vienna - #702

BURT WOLF: Christmas is celebrated in cities throughout the world, but what takes place in the Austrian city of Vienna is unique. These are the darkest days of the year and the need to be reminded that the sun will return goes back to prehistoric times. The ancient Romans handled the problem with the Feast of the Unconquered Sun, which declared that sun filled days were just around the corner.

As Christianity spread throughout the Roman Empire the idea of light overcoming the powers of darkness became a symbol for the birth of Christ---the arrival of hope when times were darkest.

For centuries, Christ was called the “Unconquered Sun” and the straw radiating like rays of light from the baby Jesus in the manger is a visual presentation of that idea. The theme of Christ bringing light to the world is the reason fires and bright objects are part of the Christmas celebration.

Vienna has been celebrating the Unconquered Sun, in one form or another, for over 2,000 years. 

CHRISTMAS MARKETS

BURT WOLF: Central to Vienna’s celebration are the Christmas markets. The Viennese have been setting them up since the year 1296 when the Emperor decided that the markets were needed in order to guarantee sufficient supplies to the population during Christmas.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: One of the central rules for a festival is that the festival itself and the things associated with it must be temporary. By the very nature a festival is something out of the ordinary, not part of the everyday. And if it stays around too long it loses its impact. One of the reasons that food is so important is that food doesn’t last long.

BURT WOLF: The ancient Roman festival that predated Christmas made no special reference to children or family, but the story of the birth of the Christ child changed the focus of the holiday---children and family became central to the festivities. Vienna’s City Hall is transformed into a fairy tale world for kids with luminous hearts, giant sweets, golden leaves and glittering stars. There’s an old Viennese carousel. A mini-railway. And pony rides. Inside the hall, there is a workshop where experts help children make their own Christmas presents or bake their own cookies. The City Hall market is a traditional market and the oldest in the city.

ST. NICK

BURT WOLF: December 6th is St. Nicholas Day and St. Nicholas dressed as a bishop walks through the streets passing out candy. St. Nicholas is often accompanied by his “dark side”, a scary fur-covered creature called Krampus. Sometimes, Nicholas will question children as to their behavior during the past year. Parents often warn their children that if they don't behave properly Krampus will carry them off. It's difficult to estimate the number of children who have gone into therapy as a result of this experience but there appears to be little concern---after all---Vienna was the home town of Sigmund Freud.

THE TREE

BURT WOLF: The Christmas market is also the place to buy your Christmas tree. Ancient societies from the Celts to the Egyptians marked the darkest days of winter by decorating their homes with evergreen plants.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: In Catholic communities, the Christ Child, The Three Kings and St. Nicholas were represented in human form. But the Protestant community didn’t think that was appropriate, so during the 1500s they introduced the Christmas tree.

BURT WOLF: It was man-sized but had no personality. It could signify Christmas in an abstract way and was therefore thought to be pure. Like Christmas, the tree was new every year and yet it was always the same---bringing light during the darkest days of the year. And it took over the role of the Three Kings and St. Nicholas by bringing presents. Eventually Catholics decided that the tree was okay and Protestants decided that even though

St. Nick was human, he was still welcome. 

Austrian families often have homemade Christmas tree decorations or a collection that they purchased over the years in the market. They are passed down from generation to generation as family heirlooms.

HERE COME THE HAPSBURGS

BURT WOLF: Vienna was built at the crossroads of two major trade routes. The north-south axis was the Amber Road that went from Northern Germany to Greece. The east-west traffic was handled by the Danube River. The Danube was essential for the growth of international trade. Vienna got rich because the city controlled the traffic heading down river.

And Vienna was controlled by the Hapsburgs. The Hapsburg family came to power at end of the 1200s and hung onto it for almost 700 years. This is Schonbrunn Palace, it was their summer place. Now, most royal families increased their land and their power by using military might, but the Hapsburgs used marriage.

It all started when Maximilian who married Mary, the daughter of the Duke of Burgundy, which added the Netherlands and Luxembourg to his lands in Austria. Then Max’s son Phil married Joan, the heiress of Castile. And that got him Spain and Naples and Sicily and Sardinia and all the newly conquered Spanish lands in the Americas.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: These guys were getting married all over the place and getting all the places where they got married. But at one point they made a fatal mistake. In order to avoid anybody marrying a Hapsburg and getting their land they started marrying each other---

a genetic disaster. It’s good to have a close family but not that close.

BURT WOLF: Swimming in the same gene pool made them weirder and weirder and in the end they lost everything.

Fortunately, what they lost is now on display to the public.

SCHONBRUNN PALACE

BURT WOLF: Robert Tidmarsh has been a senior guide to Schonbrunn Palace for over twenty years.

ROBERT TIDMARSH ON CAMERA: This room is the so called Marie Antoinette Room; it dates back to the time of the Emperor. What we've done is to try to show the public what a dining room was like at the time of the Emperor.

The napkins are the so called Kaiser Serviette. They're shaped similar to a fleur d'lys, and they were used, or are used for the head of state. Even today when we have a state reception, if the President of Austria gives the reception then they will use the Kaiser Serviette. If it's the Chancellor, then they don't. 

The Master of Ceremonies chose the length of the candles. So if it was going to be a long reception he would use long candles, if it was going to be a short reception, the short ones. Most of the people that came to a state reception were Austrians that had been to thousands of receptions before, and they would automatically look at the chandeliers to see how long the reception was going to take.

The Emperor ate very quickly, which is not quite true. If he did, he would have looked like me. He ate very little and finished very quickly, and that led to a problem. 

As soon as the Emperor stopped eating everybody else was obliged to stop.

Most of the restaurants near to the Schonbrunn or near to the Hofburg or the hotels, knew about the problem. They knew that the reception would be over very quickly, and they were getting ready for the end of the reception. And the end of the reception would have been that moment, as soon as the Emperor stopped eating and everybody left the Hofburg or Schonbrunn and went to the next best hotel for a meal.

BURT WOLF: Schonbrunn has its own Christmas market with a focus on hand crafts, decorations and food.

Families shop for Christmas tree decorations that will be passed down from one generation to the next.

Festive candles bring light and wonderful fragrances.

The most significant things offered for sale in the Christmas market are foods and things made of food. 

At the market, stands are loaded with Kaiserschmarren, a traditional dessert made from fluffy pancakes that have been scrambled and topped with jam.

Another holiday tradition is hot mulled wine. It's wine that's been sweetened and spiced. Warms you inside and out.

And every weekend during the Christmas season Mozart’s Magic Flute is presented in the marionette theater.

MARIONETTE ON CAMERA: This Company in Vienna existed 10 years in the castle of Schonbrunn and also this very famous tradition, because Maria Theresa, you now her?

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Yes, well not personally.

MARIONETTE ON CAMERA: Not personally because it was 250 years ago ---something like that.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: I'm old but I'm not that old.

MARIONETTE ON CAMERA: Not that old, no---she had marionettes here in the castle of Schonbrunn 250 years also --- you know Joseph Haydn?

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Yeah.

MARIONETTE ON CAMERA: He was the composer and they did lots of operas for marionettes. Yeah he was famous at this time.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Yeah.

MARIONETTE ON CAMERA: Then he got a short break and we are here since 10 years now.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Wonderful. What made you want to be a puppet?

MARIONETTE ON CAMERA: The Magic Flute is very special for marionettes you know. As marionettes sometimes they can do things on stage what human people cannot do.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: How many performances do you have a year?

MARIONETTE ON CAMERA: We have The Magic Flute opera all year long.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: I understand you have some new make-up.

MARIONETTE ON CAMERA: Ah yes new make-up. Juts a few days ago because I have to do kisses with Papa Gino and when I do too much kissing my make-up is not so nice.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Do you guys always get along?

MARIONETTE ON CAMERA: Yes we always get along.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: No tension, no anxiety?

MARIONETTE ON CAMERA: Um sometimes.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: You're in wonderful shape do you have a special diet?

MARIONETTE ON CAMERA: Oh I have many performances and I always have to jump something like that…

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: So your physical exercise is part of the program.

MARIONETTE ON CAMERA: Yes always.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Wonderful.

THE SOUND OF CHRISTMAS

BURT WOLF: Along with Christmas food and Christmas trees, Christmas music plays an essential role. There are thousands of musical compositions from Silent Night to Jingle Bells that are only played at Christmas and they always bring back memories of the celebration. Silent Night, by the way, is Austria’s most beloved Christmas carol. It was first performed on Christmas Eve in 1818 in a small Austrian village.

During the second half of the 1700s, the Hapsburgs played a critical role in turning Vienna into the music capital of Europe--- a title which it held onto for over 100 years. Mozart, Hayden, Beethoven, Schubert, Strauss, Brahms, and Mahler all worked in Vienna.

At Christmas time the city is filled with music and some of the finest can be heard as part of the regular church services.

ADVENT

BURT WOLF: A central element in Vienna’s Christmas celebration is Advent.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Advent is a four-week period leading up to Christmas. It represents the 4,000 years of the Old Testament that were thought to have existed between creation and the birth of Jesus.

BURT WOLF: One of the most common traditions during Advent is the keeping of an Advent calendar. It's made up of a series of miniature doors---one for each day from the first day of Advent

through Christmas, and each day, one of the doors is opened. Inside is a picture or a saying or a little present---a little promo for what’s coming up.

SCENES OF THE NATIVITY

BURT WOLF: The tradition of Nativity scenes outside a church goes back to St. Francis of Assisi. In the year 1223, St. Francis set up a live Nativity scene in the forest, he used a manger and real animals and invited the local population to come and join him in celebrating the birth of the Christ Child. At a time when very few people could read or write the scene was a powerful teaching tool.

In Austria, the custom of setting up a nativity scene at Christmas began in the mid-1500s. The early scenes were simple---Mary, Joseph, the Christ Child, and a few animals. But as the tradition took hold additional biblical elements were added. The shepherds joined in and the Three Kings arrived with their gifts. Eventually, the entire village of Bethlehem surrounded the manger.

THE FOODS OF CHRISTMAS

BURT WOLF: The Imperial Hotel was originally built as a palace for the Duke of Wurttemberg. But when the Duke heard that a new street was going to pass near the building he decided to move to the suburbs. He sold his palace and never really lived here. The new owner had it refurbished into a hotel. But it still feels like a palace. 

During the month of December the hotel presents the dishes that make up the traditional foods of Christmas in Vienna.

The usual pre-Christmas meal on Christmas Eve is rather simple. The main dish is fish, most often carp. It is considered to be a sign of good fortune if you get the fish roe with your portion. It’s a common belief that a lot of little eggs will bring you a lot of good luck. The vegetable dishes usually include beets and cabbage.

The Christmas Eve meal is simple, but the Christmas feast, which in Vienna is the mid-day meal on Christmas Day, is anything but plain. At the Imperial Hotel's Christmas gathering, the meal begins with a Truffled Terrine with Mango Chutney.

The second course is Consommé with Cep Mushrooms and Pistachio Dumplings. 

Roast Goose is the traditional main course and its served with Imperial Stuffing made with Red Cabbage and Apples. Every family will have its own stuffing recipe which will often include sauerkraut, dried fruits, apples or chestnuts. At any feast we try to do two things: we make an effort to show that we are united, a part of a group, but while at the same time we try to show our individuality. The goose is a universal container; it’s the same bird that’s being roasted by all the other families. But the stuffing is unique. It is the family stuffing and makes one family different from all the others.

And there are dozens of sweet desserts like a Soufflé of Gingerbread with Chocolate Sauce and Stewed Kumquats.

And there are lots of festive breads. Christstollen is a good example---filled with nuts, raisins and dried fruits, it's the Austrian answer to Christmas pudding.

Apples and nuts are important symbols for Christmas. The apple represents the Tree of Knowledge in the Garden of Eden. It’s an ancient fruit, bright and shiny; it symbolizes hope and light during the darkness of winter. Austrians have been making apples part of their Christmas celebration for hundreds of years. Nuts represent destiny and life’s great puzzles. You must break them open to find out what’s going on inside.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Red and green are the colors of Christmas. Red reminds us of summer warmth and fresh flowers and green is for the leaves that we hope will return to the trees. Santa Claus is always red and green is the color of real Christmas trees.

THE VIENNESE COOKIE MONSTER

BURT WOLF: Of all the foods associated with Christmas in Vienna, the most significant are the cookies and they are on sale throughout the city.

The official home of Vienna’s cookie monster is Demel. Demel got started in 1786 when a confectionary assistant settled in Vienna and started selling decorated baked goods. His shop, which served coffee and hot chocolate along with the pastries, became a gathering spot for the local aristocracy and his cookies became an essential part of Vienna’s Christmas celebration.

COFFEE HOUSES

BURT WOLF: At some point during Vienna’s Christmas celebration you will end up in a coffee house. Coffee houses have been part of Viennese life since the 1600s. Coffee originated in Ethiopia, and by the sixth century Arab communities in the area were cultivating coffee. The Moslem sect called the Dervishes loved the stuff. They realized that when they drank coffee, they had more energy and they were able to stay up longer. That gave them more time at prayer. So they figured it was a gift from God. They called it 'kava,' which is where our word coffee comes from. Moslem armies attacked Vienna in 1683. When their siege failed and they headed back to the Near East, they left behind sacks of coffee beans. The Viennese discovered it, figured out how to brew it and opened up their first coffee house. A coffee house is a place to read the newspaper, play a game of billiards, have a light meal or a dessert, a glass of wine, and definitely a cup of coffee. The waiters in a true Viennese coffee house will be dressed in tuxedos and they will offer you over 20 different types of coffee and with each cup there will be a small glass of water to aid your digestion.

THE UNCONQUERED SUN

BURT WOLF: Vienna celebrates a very traditional Christmas, with most of the religious elements in place. But there are cities around the world where people feel that the religious aspects have been pushed out and the only thing that's left is the need to buy presents. But gift-giving is a central part of the story of Christmas.

The Christ Child was a present from god. The Three Kings brought presents for the child in the manger. And we're expected to respond to God's generosity by continuing to give gifts.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Over the years, I have come to the conclusion that Christmas offers us the opportunity to remember that the most important lights may not be the lights around us but the lights inside us. And the darker the outside world looks the more important it is to keep the lights inside us from going out.

For Travels & Traditions, I’m Burt Wolf.

Travels & Traditions: Santa Fe, New Mexico - #701

BURT WOLF: Santa Fe in northern New Mexico rests in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Native Americans have been living in and around Santa Fe for at least 12,000 years. The Spanish arrived in the 1600s, about the same time that the English showed up in Virginia. In 1821, the territory was taken from Spain by the newly formed government of Mexico. And in 1850, it became part of the United States.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Nothing much happened for the next 60 years. But then the First World War made it impossible for wealthy Americans to take their annual trip to Europe and so they decided to understand their own country and suddenly anything and everything that had anything to do with the American Southwest was fashionable. And anthropologists came in to try and understand and preserve Santa Fe.

THE PALACE OF THE GOVERNORS

BURT WOLF: In the center of town is The Palace of the Governors, an outstanding example of Spanish adobe architecture. It was constructed in 1610 and is the oldest government building in the United States. For about four hundred years, it has been the residence of Spanish, Mexican and American governors.

The Palace houses The New Mexico History Museum with over 17,000 historical objects that document the history of the area: 223 years of Spanish control, 25 years as part of Mexico, 66 years as a territory of the United States, and statehood since 1912.

The Palace Photographic Archives contain over 750,000 historical images and copies are available for purchase.

The building is also home to the Palace Press. In 1834, the first printing press arrived in New Mexico and was used to produce religious and political materials as well as school primers. In 1877, the first book was printed in a Pueblo language.

THOMAS LEECH ON CAMERA: The capital letters are arranged alphabetically with the exception of J and U which follow X, Y, Z.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Why?

THOMAS LEECH ON CAMERA: Because they're recent additions to the Roman alphabet.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Huh, when did they come in?

THOMAS LEECH ON CAMERA: Probably 16th century…a - J, is a modified I and U is a modified V. So the printers just added those to the end of X, Y, Z.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: That's amazing, new letters.

THOMAS LEECH ON CAMERA: Right.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Okay, so let's set.

THOMAS LEECH ON CAMERA: As you're setting that you're really reading it upside down and the letters read backwards. Now in the old days, no you picked a K, the printers were amazingly fast…

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: I'm going to put these in now so would you hold those for me?!

THOMAS LEECH ON CAMERA: Certainly. Once we have the type set then we need to lock it up in the iron chase, this frame right here, so I have to carefully lift the letters out, you don’t want to spill them…put it right there. My mallet and plane and tap it down to that all the letters are the same height. Give it another slight twist, everything looks good, test it like that.

THOMAS LEECH ON CAMERA: Next we take it over and put it in the press.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Ok, any particular level of pressure?

THOMAS LEECH ON CAMERA: Well actually the faster the easier it is. The faster you go the easier it is to pump.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: The faster the easier it is.

Just want to take my pulse here for a second…

THOMAS LEECH ON CAMERA: Yeah.

BURT WOLF: Outside the Palace dozens of Native American artists display and sell their work --- pottery, jewelry and other crafts from each of more than 20 different Native American communities in New Mexico. They are participating in a museum program that regulates what they may sell. Everything must be handmade by the craftsman or his or her immediate family. The pieces must display a maker’s mark and be registered with the Palace of the Governors. In effect, these objects have been authenticated by the museum.

THE CHAPEL OF SAN MIGUEL

BURT WOLF: The Chapel of San Miguel is the oldest church structure in the United States still in use. The original adobe walls were built in 1610 by Indians who came here from Mexico and worked under the direction of Franciscan missionaries.

The altar screen is considered to be one of the great works of colonial art in the Southwest. It was hand-made of native pine and held together with wooden pegs and joints.

It was designed to accommodate paintings on canvas of Saints and Spanish royalty that were brought from Mexico as well as locally produced sculptures.

BROTHER LESTER LEWIS ON CAMERA: The chapel is dedicated to Saint Michael, who's the patron of the church, and because this was a military chapel from 1610, so, you have the favorites up there, particularly over the Franciscans. On my upper right hand, is Saint Teresa Arriva. She was a Carmelite nun in the 15th century. The large middle painting is Saint Michael the Archangel. To the right, the oval painting is Saint Gertrude of Germany, a Benedictine Abbis that lived in the 12th Century. Below Saint Teresa is the painting of Saint Francis of Assisi. And opposite of that is King Louis IX, King of France. Now the large painting that separates Saint Francis and the King is the Spanish rendition of The Passion of Christ.

BURT WOLF: The altar screen includes a series of Solomonic Columns that were copied from the Bernini columns that flank the great altar in the Basilica of St. Peter’s in the Vatican.

A BIRD'S EYE VIEW

BURT WOLF: Northern New Mexico has been home to talented artists and craftsmen for thousands of years and what has always inspired them was the natural landscape.

Manfred Leuthard, the owner of HeliNM, runs helicopter tours over some of the most beautiful parts of the Southwest. Places that would be almost inaccessible except by air.

MANFRED LEUTHARD ON CAMERA: The first spot I want to show you is the Bonanza Creek Movie Ranch. It is nestled eight miles south of Santa Fe in the foot hills here. Many films have been shot here: Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, Cheyenne Social Club, Lonesome Dove, Young Guns and many more.

We're now turning west. The peaks ahead of us are the Jemez Mountains they were created 1.2 million years ago by a series of volcanic erruptions. The geologists estimate that about 200 cubic miles of material, enough to cover the entire state of New Mexico six feet deep, were spewed out in numerous cataclysmic events.

As we fly up Peralta Canyon look out for strangely shaped conical structures and then you know we've arrived at a place called Tent Rocks. These sculptures are composed of volcanic ash and are highly eroded. Sometimes you see little rocks balanced on top of these conical structures, it's that little balanced rock that protected the underlining softer stone from erosion. Tent Rock National park was not built where the prettiest tent rocks are; it was built where there was a road. The prettiest tent rocks are in a canyon, in the Peralta Canyon, and it's about a mile and a half long. The only way to get there is a very, very long hike, horseback ride or helicopter.

Now we come to the rim of the Valles Caldera. This vast grassland is one portion of a volcanic crater 15 miles in diameter, the flat area you see on the left is essentially the filled up crater from the volcanic eruption. There is only very little soil underneath this volcanic ash and therefore nothing grows here except a little bit of grass. It used to be a cattle ranch, now it's a nature preserve. It's used for hiking, hunting and there is a large population of elk up here.

Below us is the town of Abiqui. The area around Abiqui is what inspired Georgia O'Keeffe for her paintings and Ansel Adams for his photography. One of the thrills I can offer you on the way back to the airport is to fly through Diablo Canyon. It looks narrow but it's plenty wide for the helicopter. I know that because I've been through here before.

PLAINS LEDGER DRAWINGS

BURT WOLF: Santa Fe has a number of galleries that specialize in Native American artwork.

The Morning Star Gallery is devoted to historic Native American art and has an extensive collection of beadwork, pottery, basketry, masks, clothing and textiles.

It also has a collection of ledger drawings, which are exactly what their name implies; drawings on the ledger paper used for bookkeeping.

VANESSA HERNANDEZ ON CAMERA: As we are approaching the end of the 19th century, the Plains people are quickly changing their cultures. The access to buffalo hide, to hides in general, are becoming more difficult, so what the Plains artists do, being innovative, they make the transition of this pictographic artistic tradition onto paper.

These are two wonderful examples to highlight, and interestingly enough, they're done by the same artist. In the top image we have two male warriors, these are Arapahoe warriors, and they're dressed to the nines, they're in their best outfits. They're in their best outfits because they're getting ready to go courting. They're going to see their sweethearts, and as you see, they're taking their horse with them; they're going to show off their wealth and say, what a good match we will be.

This image is actually more classic, it's a hunting scene. But what's particularly interesting about this one is that it shows the perils of the hunt. Hunting buffalo is certainly not easy, and there are lots of accidents that can happen.

If you notice, to the left of the heads of the people, there is a little round shape. That's called the name-glyph, and in this case we know that this artist is called Dark Cloud.

People often times read these as children's drawings, because they seem overtly simplistic, but that's actually far from the truth. These are incredibly sophisticated drawings, they're pictorial shorthand that work as memory aids for the men to tell stories. It is very formulaic, languages have to be. So men learned to do these types of drawings from elder men. They learned that horses, when are in movement, all four legs should be up off the ground, to show progression in space.

So all of these things do work as a symbol that is recognized by the rest of the tribe, so that other people can also recognize the accomplishments of the man, so they work like a record, that everybody gets to read.

GEORGIA O’KEEFFE MUSEUM

BURT WOLF: The most famous artist to take up residence in the neighborhood was probably Georgia O’Keeffe. And Santa Fe has a museum that is completely dedicated to her works. O’Keeffe was born in 1887 and died at the age of 98 in 1986. The museum traces the development of her work from her early days in Wisconsin and Texas to her years in New Mexico.

BARBARA BUHLER LYNES ON CAMERA: This picture was done in 1917, when Georgia O'Keeffe was in Texas. And one of the things that interested her about Texas was the beauty of the night sky, the flatness of the horizon and the activity in the night sky. It's one of the most innovative and important abstractions of American art in the 1910s. What she does is create an extremely simple, minimalist image in which the stars are conveyed to us through the actual paper, so she's using the paper as a component of the imagery.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: What did O'Keeffe love about New Mexico?

BARBARA BUHLER LYNES ON CAMERA: It was a landscape that she immediately identified with, and I think it has a lot to do with the light and the color and the crispness of the contours, and the severity of the landscape appealed to her. She often said that when she walked in the landscape in New Mexico, she felt she had been someplace that no one had been before.

This is another spectacular Georgia O'Keeffe flower painting. It's called "Black Hollyhock and Blue Larkspur", and it was painted in 1930, the second summer that O'Keeffe was in New Mexico.

When she first started painting floral forms in large scale, the critics interpreted it as a manifestation of her sexuality, which she was really angry about it, because she felt her work was about the sensuality and sexuality of the natural world.

So by depicting this the center of the flowers, she's focusing on their androgyny, because they have male and female parts. So it's really a joke on the critics, but they didn't get it and they still don't.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: How many works do you think she produced?

BARBARA BUHLER LYNES ON CAMERA: She produced 2,029 works that our Museum would document, so that includes oil paintings, pastels, charcoal drawings, finished works, as well as, you know, sketches. THE LORETTO CHAPEL

MARK CHILDERS ON CAMERA: The chapel was built by the Sisters of Loretto. They were an American born teaching order from Kentucky and they were brought here by the first archbishop of Santa Fe, Archbishop Jean Baptiste Lamy. And he asked them to come and open a girl's school. The chapel was actually built with the sister's dowries, with their own savings from their families.

BURT WOLF: It was the first stone masonry structure in Santa Fe. And these days it's famous for its Miraculous Staircase.

MARK CHILDERS ON CAMERA: After the chapel was finished they realized there was one major architectural flaw. They had a beautiful chapel, a choir loft, where the sisters could sing the liturgy. They had no way to get to the choir loft. So the sisters did what nuns know how to do, and that was to pray.

BURT WOLF: A stranger arrived, built the Miraculous Staircase and disappeared without asking to be paid. Word circulated that the staircase had been built by St. Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters.

MARK CHILDERS ON CAMERA: The staircase makes two full 360 degree turns. It stands apparently on its own weight without any center supports. And it is built without nails. It was built simply held together with square pegs. It has 33 steps, which we would know from our bible history, 33 is the number of years that Jesus lived on this Earth. It is regarded as the first gothic structure built west of the Mississippi. They started construction in 1873 and it was finished by 1878.

The beautiful alter itself is made out of a plaster and wood composition and then painted to look like marble. The mosaics that are in the ceiling that you would see, and also the borders, under the windows, around the chapel, the mosaics are actually just paint made to look like mosaic tile.

THE PUEBLOS

BURT WOLF: In 1888, a 40 year old self-taught anthropologist named Adolph Bandelier went to New Mexico under the sponsorship of the Archeological Institute of America. His goal was to trace the customs of the people of the southwest. One of the areas in which he worked is now the 32,000 acre Bandelier National Monument.

GARY ROYBAL ON CAMERA: Bandelier is a sacred place, a beautiful place. And the people who lived here chose this because of the abundance of water and wildlife. Their main staple was corn, beans and squash at the time. But they also had wild life, like wild turkey, deer, elk, rabbits, squirrels. You look around; you see a lot of small and large caves. They built into the walls of canyon and built structures in front of it. And that's the result of the volcanic eruption millions of years ago. The holes were made from very soft volcanic rock called tuff - t-u-f-f. So, very soft materials so if people had maybe used stone tools or deer antlers in order to shape it and carve it.

This is the largest village in Frijoles Canyon called Duwinny in the Caras language.

And this village is here in Frijoles Canyon and may have been two and three-story high in some places. And the rooms were very small. Their interior rooms may have been used for storage of their grains and crops. And the exterior rooms were used for living quarters. And if you look around, you'll also see the plaza where many of their daily activities would happen as well as many of their ceremonial activities and dances.

We're going up to the cliff ones you can see that structure up there called the Tallis House. It's a reconstructed building on top.

My grandfather helped build this structure in 1925. And this structure was built to give an idea of how some of the structures that looked like here in the cliff walls where there were two and three-story high as well and ladders maybe leading up to the second room. The ceilings were blackened with the soot and the fires that they built inside and the walls were also plastered as well as the flooring. Up and down this mile-and-a-half of Frijoles Canyon, this is what you would have seen at the time they occupied this area from the 12 to about in the mid-1500s.

It's important to know that the people just didn't vanish from here. They did migrate to the Rio Grande. The people have very close ties to Bandelier.  It's very sacred to them and they still come and make pilgrimages to some of the different sites that we do have.

ADOBE ARCHITECTURE

BURT WOLF: The ancestors of the Pueblo Indians have been living in northern New Mexico for at least twelve thousand years. They were primarily hunters. But when crops like corn and beans came up from Mexico the population began farming and started building above ground structures made of stone held together with mortar and covered with mud. The architectural style is known as adobe.

MICHAEL MOQUIN ON CAMERA: This is adobe which is really mud and it has the most critical factor is how much clay you have and the quality of the clay and not cracking too much. Rest is sand, small gravel, silt and add straw to it to help it dry out quicker and repel rain a little better.

This goes on all over the world; all the cultures have had the phase where they were farmers and making adobe homes. This is how it all started and this is how the Pueblo

Indians survived by being permanently settled in adobe homes, they weren't in teepees that could easily be run through with a horse. They could defend themselves and stuff so that's why the Pueblo Peoples are probably the most intact of all the Indian cultures in the United States.

I'm wetting the surface of the adobe so it will better bond with the mud plaster that'll go over it. If you didn’t do this it would soak all the water out of the mud plaster and not have enough to actually create the bond so it's critical. And then I kind of dust off the small gravel and stuff that's on the surface. And then throw the mud on it.

LA POSADA DE SANTA FE RESORT & SPA

BURT WOLF: Santa Fe’s love of history even extends to its hotels. In 1876, Abraham Staab, who had immigrated to Santa Fe from Germany purchased a plot of land and began working on the mansion which he had promised his new bride. The building was a formal brick structure in the classic European style. About 100 years later the structure was incorporated into a new hotel complex known as La Posada with means “the resting place”.

Today, La Posada consists of six acres of adobe buildings, pine trees, sculptures, pools, and fountains.

Its restaurant, Fuego, is well known for its excellent food and an extensive selection of wine.

Each week during the spring and summer there is a performance by Ronald Roybal, a self-taught musician with Pueblo and Spanish colonial ancestors.

The hotel has a Spa that offers some rather imaginative treatments that reflect the area's history. Both chocolate and hot chili peppers are indigenous to the New World and considered medicine by the Native Americans. La Posada has combined them into a chocolate-chili body wrap. It comes in both milk and dark.

Ah, but there’s more.

In 1948, Margarita Sames, working as a bartender in Acapulco, Mexico, blended a shot of tequila with some orange liqueur, and introduced her creation as, a Margarita.

But Danny Herrera of Tijuana claims that he invented the drink for the actress Margarita King.

And to make matters worse, the Russian, Ivan Yukovanovich, declared that he invented all 20th century bar drinks in his laboratory at the KGB headquarters in Moscow.

Today Americans drink over 100 million Margaritas each year.

And the bar in the Staab House has become famous for its Silver Coin version.

BURT WOLF: The land here is called New Mexico but it is actually very old. In fact it contains the oldest site in the United States, continually inhabited by the same community. The Native Americans of New Mexico call themselves “The People” and they have lived on these lands for over 12,000 years. In terms of their history, the Hispanics and Anglos are what's new. But the Hispanic and Anglo influences are powerful, and a new culture is emerging--- it's a blend of the ancient Native American, Hispanic and Anglo cultures.

For Travels & Traditions, I’m Burt Wolf.

Travels & Traditions: Chimayo Pilrimage - #610

BURT WOLF: Every year on the Friday before Easter, over 50,000 people make a pilgrimage to the small chapel of Chimayo in northern New Mexico. They are Roman Catholics and Protestants--Moslems and Buddhists--Jews and Native Americans. Most of the pilgrims have walked from the town of Espanola which is about 10 miles from the chapel. But many have come from much farther away and have been walking for days.

Some carry giant crosses in remembrance of Jesus.

Thousands are physically handicapped and make the trip in wheelchairs or on crutches.

They come in search of an inner peace--to heal both their body and their mind.

Chimayo has become the Lourdes of North America.

ARCHBISHOP MICHAEL J. SHEEHAN ON CAMERA: Let us pray. Dear God, we thank you for this beautiful day for our pilgrimage. We ask you to bless us.

BURT WOLF: Michael Sheehan, the Archbishop of New Mexico, joins the procession but not in his official capacity--he walks as just another pilgrim.

ARCHBISHOP MICHAEL J. SHEEHAN ON CAMERA: I've made the walk for 14 years. It's a spiritual thing for each individual person, and those who make the pilgrimage, some of them make it every year, others maybe making it in thanksgiving to God for some favor they've received, maybe they have made what's called a promesa, in Spanish the word promise.

And so they may have made a promesa that if God would help them with something, they would come on pilgrimage to Chimayo.

A pilgrimage is an opportunity for personal spiritual renewal, and it's an opportunity for people to pray to God in their own words, and to reflect as they go with others along the path to deepen their own religious values and their own commitment to God.

WOMAN PILGRIM ON CAMERA: For me what it's done is deepen my faith in God's way of dealing with the personal, because everyone does have a different experience with the pilgrimage. It's unique, and yet it's a community experience. It's people walking together. It's people making a statement of faith. So for me it's a blending of my interior life with my outside life.

ARCHBISHOP MICHAEL J. SHEEHAN ON CAMERA: There's two things really with the pilgrimage. It's a public expression of our faith, and because our world has become so secular and so materialistic that a lot of believers have kind of retreated to within themselves. And they don't want to impose upon others by talking about their religion unfortunately. So the pilgrimage gives people a chance to publicly express their faith, and to do it in a way that is prayerful and joyful as they move through the countryside on their way to Chimayo. So there is a personal dimension, and also a communal dimension to the pilgrimage. 

The uniqueness perhaps here in Chimayo is the humility of the shrine itself, the simplicity of it. It's made holy by the faith of the people who have been going for hundreds of years in pilgrimage.

MAN PILGRIM ON CAMERA: I've been making this walk now for about since 1974. And we make this walk to, for my brother Knight’s first of all, you know? And then for my family for their good health and to let the Lord know that we love Him and that we're with Him and we appreciate everything He's done for us.

BURT WOLF: For many, the walk is a family tradition--their parents walked with their grandparents, they walked with their parents and now they are walking with their children.

THE LEGEND

FATHER JIM SUNTUM ON CAMERA: The legend, as we have it, is that in around 1812, Bernardo Abeto, a member of the Hermanos Benetentes of this area - which would be Holy Cross Parish of Santa Cruz - was herding sheep, checking on them at night, and saw a light in the hillside. And in the hillside, he found a hole with light coming out of it, and found at the source of the light, a crucifix.

He decided that the crucifix belonged in the parish church. It was an impressive looking crucifix. He took it that night to the parish church, which is about nine miles away. And then he gave it to the pastor, and they hung it in the parish church. But the next morning, it was back in the hole in the hillside. 

Eventually, Bernardo decided that the crucifix wanted to have its own church, and he began to build a church around that crucifix here. 

The place was - even before Bernardo Abeto was considered by the Native Americans, a healing place. And they would do their dances, they would come here for peace and healing.

But then, when he built the chapel, it became, a praying place for the hermanos, and later on the people of New Mexico, the world wars turned it into a popular shrine, because before World War I and II, Mexican Indians and Hispanics and citizens of Mexico were being drafted into the Army, and their families would come here to pray for safety. And after the wars, they came here to thank God for the safety, or thank God for bringing their sons to Heaven.

THE CHAPEL

BURT WOLF: The chapel was put up in 1814, but the land around that chapel has been scared for Native Americans for over 10,000 years. It’s only a simple adobe mission, and yet it is one of the most valued religious sites in America.

The main chapel of the mission was built around the crucifix of Esquipulas which hangs over the main altar. It dates to 1595 and was made for a group of Native Americans in Guatemala. They wanted a statue of Christ where his skin color was as dark as their own.

The sculptor couldn't find wood as dark as they wanted, but it was a step in the right direction and they stored the crucifix while their new shrine was being built. When the shrine was finally finished they opened the cabinet where the statue had been held and discovered that the crucifix had turned the same dark color as the local people.

FATHER JIM SUNTUM ON CAMERA: This Christo some people think is the one that was found in the hole by Bernardo Aveda. And of course it’s much more the size that would fit in and come out of that hole. And it seems to have been around about the same length of time as the one on the alter.

But it’s obvious the church was build around the one on the altar. So history and the church itself favor the one on the alter being the one that Bernardo found. But this is just as old and it actually looks a little bit more like the Christo in Exipulous.

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: Well when we generally think of important churches we think of the National Cathedral maybe in Washington or St. Patrick's Cathedral in New York but Chimayo reminds us of the fact that many important churches are for the local people that we may never have heard of but play an extremely important role in their lives.

I remember a missionary once telling me he was in the mountains in Latin America and he came upon a family where the father and husband was very sick and dying and he said why don’t you sell the family cow to buy the antibiotics to save you and the father said well this is my family's only means of support. If we lose that and the medicine doesn’t cure me then the family will not have their father and will not have the cow to support them so better they keep the cow.

And this is the kind of faith and the kind of poverty and need of healing that so many in the world face as an everyday reality.

And this is the role and the importance of the church in Chimayo for these people.

FATHER JIM SUNTUM ON CAMERA: In the world in which we live that God may give us health and peace through the blood of Christ we pray to the Lord.

CROWD RESPONDS: Lord hear our prayers.

THE SAND PIT

BURT WOLF: At the rear of the church is a room with a small round hole in the floor. It's the sand pit at the center of the mission and the primary focus for many of the 300,000 pilgrims who come here each year. Pilgrims kneel or lie down on the floor and reach into the pit. They use a spoon or a trowel to scrape out some of the sand which is considered to have the ability to both cure and protect. Some pilgrims taste the sand; others take a little home and mark their doors and windows to guard against evil spirits.

FATHER JIM SUNTUM ON CAMERA: This room was added on, I believe, in the 50s, as a receptacle for the tokens of gratitude left behind by pilgrims. The pictures, the crutches, the rosaries - everything in this room has been left here by somebody who experienced some sort of favor. So people came and prayed for peace, healing, a change in their life, experienced it and came back with their thanksgiving offering.

BURT WOLF: It’s easy to write off the stories about the cures that have been reported, but you would be making a big mistake.

Every year we see more and more medical evidence indicating that belief can have a monumental effect on the course of an illness. And that’s true even if you are not consciously aware that you believe.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: A while back, there was an interesting experiment. They took a group of people who were fast asleep under anesthesia for an operation and told half of them that they were gonna get better faster. And when they woke up, that half did get better faster even though they had no conscious memory of having received the suggestion. So it appears that if you believe in something, even though you’re not aware of it, it can be quite powerful.

MIRACLES

BURT WOLF: Most non-Hispanic Americans first came across the word milagro in the title of Robert Redford’s film The Milagro Beanfield War. The Spanish word milagro means miracle or surprise and in the case of the film it refers to the miraculous greening of a long fallow beanfield.

Traditionally, the word milagro is used to describe small silver or gold colored offerings in the shape of arms, legs or other body parts or animals. They’re attached to the statues of a saint or the wall of the church as a request for help in connection with that body part or as thanks for help already received.

Milagros can be flat or sculptured, small or large and made of virtually anything that the petitioner thinks is appropriate. You can have one made for the occasion or purchase a ready made model from the vendors that surround the church. 

Raymond Bal is the owner of the Milagro shop adjacent to the mission at Chimayo.

RAYMOND BAL ON CAMERA: A lot of times we wonder what they do with them. But when we get feedback and they tell us it worked, it's really great.

BURT WOLF: The use of milagros in Mediterranean cultures is a pre-Christian ritual that goes back for thousands of years. When the practice was brought to the Americas it was easily adopted by the Native Americans who had similar traditions involving small amulets.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Like most folkloric forms, Milagros tends to keep up with the times. Here’s a very contemporary piece. It’s an airplane that you wear in the hope that you don’t get the center seat. There is also one that I will be purchasing shortly. This is one you wear in the hope that your hard drive never goes down. Very contemporary, very nice to keep up with the times.

BURT WOLF: In essence, everyone from pilgrims to the most sophisticated visitors purchase Milagros in an effort to heal someone or themselves. The impulse underneath these purchases is to help someone in need.

SOMETHING TO PRAY TO

BURT WOLF: As Spanish priests established congregations throughout the New World they found it increasingly difficult to obtain traditional European images for their churches. The shortage was particularly acute in areas that were distant from Mexico’s major cities.

The problem was partially solved by having local craftsmen produce the statues. In some cases the priests did the carving and painting. The images were taken from contemporary paintings and sculptures in Mexico as well as prints of works by European masters. When they were blessed by the priest they became the receptacle for the supernatural spirit of the saint. They were called Santos.

In Chimayo, the most popular Santos figure is a representation of the baby Jesus. It's believed that each night he leaves the chapel and travels through the district on errands of mercy, often wearing out his shoes in the process, which is why pilgrims bring baby shoes as an offering.

Something to pray to is an essential element in all religions, and Santos offer a physical object that can receive the prayers of the faithful. They are still used in homes throughout the Americas. One of the largest collections of Santos is in the Santa Fe Museum of Spanish Colonial Art.

Robin Gavin is the curator.

ROBIN FARWELL GAVIN ON CAMERA: Santos in New Mexico were made in two forms that are referred to as Ratablos and Bultos. And Ratablos are paintings that are on flat board, on pine panels, and the Bultos are images that are rendered three dimensionally, it's the local term for sculpture. In Mexico these would have been referred to as escultoros, but in New Mexico they're called Bultos.

There's a very active tradition today of making Santos, and the artists that make these images are known as santeros, and this is a term that was coined probably in the 20th century, because in the early documents they're usually called, pintores, or painters, or escultores, for sculptors. But in the 20th century these artists are known as santers.

The parishioners would ask for their images to be included in the altar screens in the churches they would have images of the saints in their homes, and they would also often commission the santeros, the artists, to make images of these saints for the churches. 

BURT WOLF: Ramon José López is a native of Santa Fe and has been instrumental in the revival and preservation of the art forms of colonial New Mexico. By studying both private and museum collections he has been able to master the traditional method for producing these works. His designs come from images used by New Mexican colonial craft workers who were influenced by artists in Spain, France and Latin America.

RAMON JOSÉ LÓPEZ ON CAMERA: I’m a Santero. Santero is a wood carver that carves religions imagery. This alter screen of Samposé E Maria is special to me because I painted my four children on the top. When they were small they would bring their school friends over and say "that’s me".

This bed is very special to me because when I was displaying it at Spanish market one year many people came up to me and said, "this is the bed I would like to die in".

This piece is a Guardenjo, it's a writing desk. And I embellished it with sterling silver and there’s about ten pounds of silver on this piece here. This was a gift to my wife for her birthday. This writing desk is one of the best forms of furniture the Spanish introduced to the world. This one I made with little reliquaries inside these little pockets here. They’re kind of like secret drawers. There are different secret compartments underneath the drawers also. 

This is a very special place for me because it’s our family chapel. It’s just a little special place to come and pray and meditate.

This is a second chapel I made for my house. The first one I made is down the hill which I made 31 years ago. And it was to thank God for helping me build my house.

WHAT'S COOKING

BURT WOLF: Chimayo’s second claim to fame comes from its chili peppers. Chili first came to New Mexico in 1598, along with the earliest Spanish settlers and today more chili peppers are grown in New Mexico than any other state in the United States. Red and green chili comes from the same plant. The green chili is fresh, the red chili has been given time to ripen

They are ripened on strings, then ground to bring out their natural sweet flavor and they are highly valued by the world’s chili lovers. The birthplace of the hot pepper was probably central Bolivia, and they have been in use by the native population of Mexico for at least 7,000 years.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: But for many of those years hot peppers were used as a medication. The chemical in a hot pepper that gives it it's heat is called capsaicin. And it is a natural decongestant and the active ingredient in many of our common cold remedies.

BURT WOLF: Some authorities believe that hot peppers are addictive. They say that when the capsaicin in the pepper hits the nerve endings on your tongue your brain thinks your body is being attacked and responds by delivering endorphins that are painkillers. The endorphins also give you a slight but pleasurable high similar to a very mild dose of morphine. Every time you take a bite of the pepper, you get another hit of the endorphin.

The place to test out the theory that chili is a source of pleasure would be the restaurant at the Rancho de Chimayo, which is in an old hacienda near Chimayo’s central plaza.

The Rancho was originally put up in 1601 by the Jaramillo family who can trace their roots to the earliest Spanish settlers in New Mexico.

FLORENCE JARAMILLO ON CAMERA: Hi there how are you today?

BURT WOLF: These days, Florence Jaramillo runs the restaurant. The cooking is typical northern New Mexican, prepared with local ingredients and based on recipes that have been in the family for generations.

Their most famous dish is made with chunks of pork that have been marinated in red chili and cooked in the oven for about three hours. It's served with white corn that's been treated with lime. It's called Posole and it's something like hominy.

Their other signature dish is stuffed fried bread. It's stuffed with rice, beans and cooked beef. Then covered with green chili sauce and shredded cheese.

THE WEAVERS

BURT WOLF: The town of Chimayo is also known for its weavers including the Centinela Weaving Shop which is run by Irvin and Lisa Trujillo. They are award winning weavers whose works have been shown and collected by museums throughout the United States including The Smithsonian in Washington, D.C. They specialize in hand-woven wool works that use natural dyes and hand spun yarns and traditional Chimayo and Rio Grande weaving styles.

Irvin’s father was one of New Mexico’s Master Weavers and he taught Irvin the traditional skills of the craft.

IRVIN TRUJILLO ON CAMERA: I started when I was ten years old, and my father was weaving at a loom, and I wondered what he was doing, because he was making a lot of racket, and I walked up and he asked me if I wanted to see what he was doing so I said yes, and he had me move a couple of spools on his piece, and then after about two weeks he asked me if I wanted to weave.

The white threads are what are called the warp, and the weft, or woof, is the horizontal thread. Most of the weaving in the Southwest is weft-face weaving, meaning that the weft thread is the only thread that shows on the surface. 

BURT WOLF: Their work continues the amazing culture of Chimayo and its role in the history of the United States.

THE MIX

BURT WOLF: Chimayo and the pilgrims who come here reflect the cultural history of New Mexico. Native Americans who have lived here for over 10,000 years, Spaniards who arrived in the 1500s and Anglo-Americans who came here during the 1800s. 

Each group brought their own religious beliefs and rituals, and today the shrine and the town around it mirror that history. The mission’s most important function, however, is to act as a looking glass for the people who come here--to let them catch a reflection of their own inner faith, and to remind them of the importance of the spirit--something that Chimayo has been doing for thousands and thousands of years.

For Travels & Traditions, I’m Burt Wolf.

Travels & Traditions: Stamp Collecting, China - #609

BURT WOLF: It looks like people have always collected things. The earliest collections relate to religious activities and were found at burial sites that date back over 200,000 years.

Collecting things, however, just might be part of an innate human desire to own stuff--to gather the physical evidence of our lives and the natural world around us.

Some collections were put together by individuals and are rather unusual, like the collection of 139 human skulls in The Mutter Museum in Philadelphia. It was assembled in the 1800s by a Viennese doctor who believed that the shape of a person’s skull was an indication of mental capacity.

Another example of an individual collector at work is the tin figure collection that was put together by a Swiss newspaper publisher. Toys like these were first produced during the middle of the 1600s by German manufacturers in order to illustrate daily life and military exploits. Some collections were put together by corporations. Motorcycle production began during the early years of the 20th century. The manufacturers decided to incorporate everything they had learned about flight into their new motorcycles. They had a low center of gravity and great handling.

And some manufacturers have tried to acquire one of every motorcycle they made and return them to their original condition. The collection starts with their earliest models and run through their most recent offerings.

In one case they have also assembled an extraordinary collection of old films that tell the story of motorcycle racing.

Some collections were put together by official institutions. The government of the city of Krakow in Poland has assembled a collection of historical paintings. For many years Poland was a divided country. Part of it belonged to Russia, part to Germany and part to Austria. One way to keep some sense of national solidarity was to put together a collection of paintings that told the story of the Polish people. They selected paintings that were very large. They wanted the size of the paintings to give the viewer a feeling that Polish history was important. 

During the European Renaissance wealthy merchant and banking families began collecting objects from Italy’s classical history.

Many of the private collections that got started in the Renaissance were symbols of social importance for the ruling families. Eventually collectors became concerned with the future of their collections. They worried about what would happen to these works when they were no longer around to care for them. Some collectors built their own museums; others donated their collections to museums that already existed. Many modern museums can trace their history to these early individual collectors.

Well-funded museums and wealthy societies can collect whatever they please--things that most individuals could never afford.

There is, however, at least one area where the average person can collect on a scale that is always intellectually and financially rewarding--and that is the stamp.

STAMPS OF APPROVAL

BURT WOLF: Worldwide, over 200 million people collect stamps. At present there are more than 500,000 different stamps and thousands of new designs are being issued each year.

Collectors consider stamps to be a great source of education.

You can learn about history. You can learn about geography. You can meet virtually every animal on the planet. You can get a good look at famous movie stars and top athletes.

When you consider how many rich and famous people collect stamps it’s easy to see how stamps can bring you into the best social circles.

And when you look at the prices being paid for stamps you can see how a proper collection can be a source of great wealth.

AUCTIONEER ON CAMERA: “At one million six hundred and fifty thousand dollars and that’s against you sir. Sold. Thank you sir.”

BURT WOLF: Before the introduction of the postage stamp the person receiving a letter paid the postage, which meant that lots of mail was refused. Charges were set based on the distance the letter traveled and its weight.

In 1837 Sir Rowland Hill presented a report to the Queen of England calling for radical changes in the British postal system. He realized that the distance the letter traveled and its weight were not the main costs.

The major expense was in the handling and sorting of the letter. When a letter was refused it went up and back without any revenue for the government. To solve the problem Sir Rowland introduced the first prepaid postage stamp. All letters that were carried within Great Britain traveled for a fixed rate which was a penny for each half- ounce. His stamps were an immediate success and letter writing increased throughout the nation.

Sir Rowland designed the first stamp himself. It featured a crowned profile of England’s Queen Victoria, was printed in black ink and sold for one penny. It became known as the “Penny Black”. Millions of Penny Blacks were issued. Although Penny Blacks are highly regarded by stamp collectors they are not that rare. But if you happen to have one and it’s in good condition you will probably be able to auction it off for about 20,000 dollars. Because Great Britain was the first country to issue postage stamps it was unnecessary to put the words “Great Britain” on the stamp. And they still don’t.

What Hill did not anticipate was how easy it was to remove the mark that was put on the stamp to show that it had been used. In fact, using chemicals to wash off the cancellation marks turned into a small industry. The Royal Stamp Collection in England has a stamp that was cleaned and used three times. Eventually Hill changed the Penny Black to the Penny Red because it was more difficult to remove the cancellation marks.

Hill also came up with the idea for the letterbox into which the letter carrier delivered the mail. Only two years after the first British stamps were printed, the Swiss cantons of Zurich and Geneva began issuing postage stamps. Within a short time Switzerland’s postal service became one of the most efficient organizations in the world. 

The United States issued its first stamps in 1847. A five-cent stamp with a picture of Benjamin Franklin and a ten-cent stamp with George Washington.

THE BASIC SYSTEM

BURT WOLF: The earliest stamps were printed in sheets. When you wanted a stamp you had to cut it out of the sheet. The British Post Office developed a machine that produced little holes around the edges of the stamp. They are called perforations and make it much easier to separate one stamp from another.

During the second half of the 1800s almost every country on the planet began issuing stamps and their popularity lead to many innovations. Italy began experimenting with airmail.

The United States started the first regular airmail service and the first regularly issued airmail stamps.

Shortly after, the special delivery stamp was introduced which promised next day delivery.

Stamps can be divided into two major categories. Definitive stamps which are mass-produced and in circulation for many years are the most common stamps in any nation.

The second group is made up of Commemorative stamps. They are only issued once and in a limited edition. Usually of greater artistic merit than the definitive, they are designed to honor a specific person, event, or subject.

The first commemorative stamp was the 5-cent scarlet locomotive issued by Peru in 1871. It marked the 20th Anniversary of the first railway line in South America.

The second commemorative stamp was issued by New South Wales to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the founding of the New South Wales colony in Australia.

The next commemoratives came from Hong Kong. Dozens of countries in Latin America issued commemoratives for the 400th anniversary of the discovery of the New World by Christopher Columbus.

When the U.S. Postal Service listed the “Most Popular U.S. Commemorative Stamps,” the popularity was judged not by the number of stamps printed but by the number saved by collectors.

The winner was Elvis. Wildflowers did well. Marilyn Monroe was as popular as ever. And Bugs Bunny was right behind her.

Stamps are also categorized by their condition. A “mint” stamp is one that is in the same condition as it was in at the time it was issued. The inks should be strong and not faded by sunlight. The images on the stamps should be centered on the paper. The more centered the printing the more valuable the stamp. Check the perforations along the edges and make sure that none of the teeth are missing and that they are of uniform length. No stains. No tears. No folds. No pinholes. In general stamps that are in mint condition will bring a greater price.

Stamps that have not been put into the mail, but the gum on the back has been disturbed, or there is minor damage, are described as “unused”. Stamps which show postal marks or cancellation marks are called “used’ stamps. 

Normally, used stamps are less valuable, but that is not always the case. Some used stamps can be worth thousands of dollars.

COLLECTING

BURT WOLF: Within a year of the issuance of the first stamp there is evidence that stamp collecting had begun. An 1841 newspaper advertisement in The Times of London was placed by a young lady who wanted to purchase cancelled postage stamps. She stated that her intention was to use them as wallpaper for her dressing room.

That might have been her intention or she might have been in the illegal business of removing the cancellations and reselling the stamps.

Stamp collecting began with British schoolboys who were fascinated with stamps from other countries. At about the same time a teacher in a Paris school encouraged his students to collect stamps of other countries and paste them on their world maps. Societies for stamp collectors were formed in Paris and Brussels.

Serious collectors were concentrating on the stamps of individual countries and issuing the first lists of stamps. Brown’s catalog issued in the1860s listed 2,400 different stamps. The standard Scott or Minkus catalogues, issued in the United States, now list more than 200,000 different stamps.

Because of the sheer number of stamps, the physical space they would take up, and their extraordinary cost, most stamp collectors concentrate on a specific area rather than attempt a general collection. They may collect the stamps of a single nation or a continent. They may focus on a specific time period. They may center their collection on a specific subject matter, like flowers, or flags or film stars. This approach is called topical collecting and during the past 50 years it has become both popular and profitable for the collectors.

SHOW ME THE MONEY

BURT WOLF: Stamps that were issued between 1840 and 1875 are some of the most valuable stamps in the world. They are historically important and rare. The one cent Black on Magenta issued by British Guiana is considered to be the world’s rarest and most expensive stamp.

The British colony was running short of stamps and couldn’t wait for a fresh supply from London.

So the postmaster general asked a local newspaper to print an emergency stock.

Each stamp was initialed by a post office employee as security against forgeries. 

Over the years collectors began to realize that there might be only one example of this stamp left. In 1922, Count Philippe Ferrari took a break from making racing cars and purchased the stamp for $30,000. In 1970, it went to a group of collectors for $280,000.

In 1980, it was purchased at auction by the millionaire John E. Dupont who paid $935,000. But he didn’t get to see it often because he is serving a 30-year prison term for murdering a friend. Along with the distinction of having owned the world’s rarest stamp, he also holds the record for the richest American ever convicted of murder.

Another category of stamp that is worth millions of times it weight in gold are stamps that contain printer’s errors. In 1918, the United States Post Office announced that it would issue a new twenty-four cent stamp. It commemorated the first regularly scheduled airmail service and was the first airmail stamp. The day before it was to be issued a stamp collector showed up at the post office and asked if the new stamps were in. The clerk said yes and sold him a sheet of 100 stamps.

The collector’s heart skipped a beat when he realized that the plane in the center of the stamp had been printed upside down. He tried to buy more but this was the only sheet with the error that had some how slipped passed the printer's inspection.

The plane was a Curtiss JN-4 biplane, known as a Jenny and the stamp with the error is known as the “Inverted Jenny”. It is one of the most famous and highly valued of all U.S. stamps. In 2002 a block of four Inverted Jenny stamps sold for two and a half million dollars. Not bad for a 96 cent investment.

The Central Intelligence Agency of the United States, better known as the CIA, has its own stamp story. Some people say it’s not true, some people say it is. Conflicting opinions are often part of CIA history.

In 1985 a few CIA workers went to buy stamps for their office. One of them noticed that the stamps they had bought had a printer’s error. They were one-dollar stamps that showed a glowing candle lamp. This is how the stamp looked in its proper form. But the stamps the CIA guys got had the glow in the wrong place. Each agent kept one stamp, the rest were sold to a stamp dealer and the money divided. When the CIA found out what had happened they asked the agents to return them. Some refused and were fired.

STAMP COLLECTING IN CHINA

BURT WOLF: Today there are over 20 million stamp collectors in China and their number is growing every year. The All-China Stamp Collectors Federation has over 45,000 local offices.

Every year in the Chinese calendar is designated by an animal, an animal whose spirit controls the progress of the year. And each year the Chinese government marks the New Year with the publication of a New Year stamp. But before the stamp is issued it must be blessed by the gods and protected from evil spirits, a process that requires a traditional ceremony.

Then a few words from the officials.

VOICE OF OFFICIAL

“It's my great pleasure to introduce the new stamp of the year.”

BURT WOLF: Finally the stamp is presented.

The designer autographs copies.

MAN ON CAMERA: “I think stamp collecting is good for friendship. The youth may have a chance to make new friends through stamp collection.”

BURT WOLF: Drums continue beating, and horns continue blaring, both of which are essential for keeping away evil spirits. And judging from first day sales the ceremony works.

Beijing is the nation’s center for stamp collecting and there are two large markets where both professionals and serious amateurs gather.

The market even has a specialist who will authenticate any stamp you might be considering.

The government believes that stamp collecting is a valuable way for young people to learn about history and ethical values and they are promoting the activity in schools throughout the nation.

China’s long history has given stamp designers a great deal of material to choose from. The natural landscape has been used for hundreds of designs. Significant events have been represented. And there are hundreds of stamps with pictures of important people.

Mr. Bai is a dealer with some unusual stamps.

MR. BAI ON CAMERA: “This is the commemorative stamp of Mei Lanfang. The stamps are issued in a very limited number, so it is very precious. I believe that the stamp market in China will get better and better. More and more people will collect stamps.”

BURT WOLF: Some of the most popular stamps for collectors in China are stamps that honor historic occasions. The 60th Anniversary of the Long March. The 50th Anniversary of the victory of the War of Resistance Against Japan. The 50th Anniversary of the founding of The People’s Republic of China. And the 100th Anniversary of the postal service.

The fastest growing area for the buying and selling of stamps is the Internet.

Zhu Yewei is one of the over 200 million people who are buying and selling stamps.

ZHU YEWEI ON CAMERA: “When I was in primary school I started collecting stamps and discovered that it was a very interesting hobby. Through eBay's auction site I can draw more attention to my stamps and get higher prices than the regular market. I have gotten some very special prices.

I once bought a monkey stamp printed in 1980 for about 25 U.S. dollars and sold it on my eBay auction site for about 130 U.S. dollars. It was bought by an American. I think he was pleased to pay the price. Much cheaper than an airline ticket for Beijing.

I think the opportunities for buyers and sellers of collectables in cyberspace is infinite. Someday soon, online shopping may take the place of regular shopping. The most exciting thing about online auctions is that I have a chance to meet other people around the world without feeling distant from them. I make deals while I am sitting at home.”

BURT WOLF: Stamp collecting has been going on for over a hundred and fifty years and though each generation finds it new and exciting it is considered to be a traditional subject.

From the ancient markets of Europe to cyberspace, collecting is constantly evolving. And how and what you collect expresses who you are, or who you want to be, both as an individual and as a society.

For Travels & Traditions, I'm Burt Wolf.

Travels & Traditions: Assisi, Italy - #608

BURT WOLF: The Italian province of Umbria is in the center of Italy. Famous as an agricultural heartland its hills are covered with fruit and olive trees and the vineyards produce excellent wines. The central valley is less than 100 miles north of Rome. In the 1500s the region became part of the lands ruled by the pope.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Because the area belonged to the papacy there was very little commercial development -- which doesn’t do much for your gross national product but it’s really quite fabulous when it comes to preserving the region's natural beauty.

BURT WOLF: The most dramatic elements are the mountains that form the Subasio group. Mount Subasio, itself, supplied the pink stones that were used between the 12th and 14th centuries to build the province’s most famous town -- Assisi. 

Assisi was built on a hill that has been inhabited for about 4,000 years. Umbrian tribes were in residence when in the year 89 B.C. Romans named the town Assisium.

They say that the stones that were used to build Assisi have absorbed the prayers of the millions of pilgrims that have come here over the centuries. And now the stones radiate a sense of peace and quite that has a spiritual effect on visitors.

In the center of town is a Roman temple that was built in 25 B.C. to honor the goddess Minerva. Minerva was in charge of art and she appears to have done good job in Assisi. No other city in Italy has had a greater impact on Italian painting.

The underlying cause for the great art in Assisi is St. Francis who was born here in 1182 and died here in 1226.

SAINT FRANCIS

BURT WOLF: Francis was the son of a wealthy cloth merchant. He learned to read and write Latin and speak French and he had a romantic and heroic view of the world. He dreamed of becoming a Knight and living a life of adventure.

It was a time of continuous warring between the city states of Italy. The city of Perugia was the great enemy of Assisi and Francis took part in one of the many battles between them. He was captured by the Perugian forces and held prisoner for almost a year.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: His health began to fail and he started asking himself, “If I actually do survive all of this, what should I do with my life?” He did survive and he decided to join the Pope’s army. But on the way to Rome he had a vision. A vision that told him to return to Assisi where he would be called to a new kind of knighthood.

BURT WOLF: At one point he was praying in the ruined chapel of San Damiano just outside Assisi. As he prayed, he heard a voice coming from above the altar telling him “Repair my house it has fallen into ruins.”

BURT ON CAMERA: Saint Francis went to his father’s warehouse, took some clothing and rode to a nearby town where he sold the clothing and his horse. He tried to give the money he got from that sale to the priest at San Damiano but the priest wouldn’t take it. So somewhat annoyed, St. Francis just threw the money out the window.

BURT WOLF: Francis’ father found his sons behavior unacceptable and had him called before the bishop of Assisi. But before his father could say anything, Francis peeled off his clothing and gave them to his father. Standing completely naked, he said; “Until now I have called you my father on earth. But from now on I can truly say: My Father is in heaven.” The bishop was astounded and gave Francis a cloak to cover himself. Francis renounced his family and all worldly goods and embraced a life of poverty.

THE MESSAGE

BURT WOLF: A turning point in Francis’s life came during a mass on February 24th, 1208.

“As you go, preach the message, the kingdom is at hand. Take no gold, nor silver, nor money in your belts, no bag for your journey, no two tunics, nor sandals, nor staff; for the laborer deserves his food. And whatever town or village you enter, find out who is worthy in it, and stay with him until you depart.”

This was the message St. Francis had been waiting for. He took off his shoes, dropped his staff, put on a rough tunic and set off to preach repentance. Even though he had no official authority to preach publicly he did, and immediately attracted a group of followers.

Francis was committed to imitating the life of Christ. Poverty was his bride. He was a social worker, a traveling preacher, a lover of nature, and a protector of animals. He thought of all creatures as his brothers. 

In 1209, Francis took a group of his disciples to Rome in the hope of getting official approval from the Pope and to demonstrate his recognition of papal authority.

It was a long shot but Francis lucked out.

The pope had a dream in which Francis was holding up the church of San Giovanni in Laterno which is the official church of the pope in Rome. The pope saw his dream as a sign that he should give his approval to the work of the Franciscans.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: This was the point when the Franciscan order was officially founded. They had no monasteries or possessions. Their only objective was to preach a return to the moral values taught by Christ. They took monasticism out of the monasteries and into the streets.

BUILDING THE BASILICA

BURT WOLF: Saint Francis died in 1226 and within two years plans for his Basilica were underway. Francis was not even Saint Francis at the time. But there were three influential groups that wanted the basilica as fast as possible.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: The Papacy wanted it because most of the followers of St. Francis were outside the church and the Basilica would bring them in. The Franciscan brothers wanted it because it honored their founder. And Assisi needed it in order to make the city an important and profitable center for pilgrims.

BURT WOLF: The Pope, who had been a longtime friend of Francis, announced that the basilica was being built on land owned by the Pope and would forever be under the control of a Pope -- and only a Pope. No other authority would be allowed to influence events in the Basilica or the Franciscan order. The Basilica became a fortified papal residence. The Pope gave the friars custody of the building and control of the local treasury.

THE BASILICA OF SAINT FRANCIS

BURT WOLF: The Basilica of Saint Francis is actually made up of two churches -- one built on top of the other.

The Upper Church is the model for all Franciscan churches around the world. The façade has a double portal under a pointed arch which is typical for places of pilgrimage.

The Basilica of St. Francis is the cradle in which Italian Renaissance painting was born. On these walls art was transformed by a new approach -- an approach developed by Gothic artists who had been working north of the Alps. In the past religious events were presented within the classical tradition of Byzantine painting. Byzantine art asks you to take its story on faith. The Gothic artists brought a realistic vision to their work.

Friar Pascal Magro is the director of the Basilica library.

FRIAR PASCAL MAGRO ON CAMERA: Giotto is considered to be the founder of Italian art, also with his master Chimabui, who painted four cycles of frescoes in the apse here and the transepts of this church.

FRIAR PASCAL MAGRO: There is a new conception of the spaces, the spaces are recognizable spaces of this world. So these episodes are taking place on recognizable stages, real stages, historical stages. We have the beginning of landscape in Italian art. We have the landscape of Assisi.

In the first fresco of the life of Francis of Assisi, the saint is represented walking on the Square of Assisi. 

BURT WOLF: Everyone from Assisi who saw this picture of St. Francis receiving homage from a simple man recognized the temple of Minerva in the background. The actual Temple is still in the center of Assisi’s town square.

FRIAR PASCAL MAGRO ON CAMERA: Then also there is the conception of the body, you know? No more the two dimensional bodies.

FRIAR PASCAL MAGRO: We have frontals, we have left profiles, we have right profiles, but we have also persons looking in, they are giving the back to the visitors. Because the visitor has to find himself a part of the fresco. The saints here are no more saying, we are here and you are there. The pilgrim, the visitor, is invited to take part in the episode.

We have the discovery in art of the volume of the body. Friars, Francis himself are represented fat, round. So the pilgrims, visitors, in their minds, in their memory, have a very tough image of Francis and the Friars. 

BURT WOLF: Giotto’s twenty-eight panels illustrating the life of St. Francis was the first time that an artist used the walls of a church to tell the entire life story of a saint who was buried in that building. It is a story set in familiar places and creates a totally recognizable vision. You don’t have to take this story on faith -- you can see it with your own eyes and identify where it took place. The old Greek style was out. The new Latin style was in. The Renaissance was underway.

OUR LADY OF THE ANGELS

BURT WOLF: In the valley west of Assisi is the Church of Our Lady of the Angels.

It is a monumental baroque building that was begun in 1569 and modeled after

St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. When it was finished, about a hundred years later, it turned out to be the seventh largest church in the Christian world.

This magnificent church, however, was built as a cover for a small church known as the Porziuncola which means “the little portion”. This is the tiny structure in which St. Francis organized the Franciscan order. And symbolically, it sits at the very center of this gigantic structure. 

POOR CLARES

BURT WOLF: Clare belonged to a noble family in Assisi. When she was sixteen years old she heard Francis speak and decided to give up her privileged life and follow his teachings.

She met with Saint Francis and had her hair cut short to mark the change in her life. In 1215, with the help of Saint Francis, she organized the order of Poor Clares. They follow the rule of Saint Francis and exist on charity.

In 1253, construction began on a basilica to honor St. Clare.

In a side chapel you can see the crucifix that was originally in the ruined chapel of San Damiano and spoke to St. Francis. This type of cross is known as an icon cross because it contains images of the people who have taken part in the story that the cross represents. Iconic crosses are traditionally found in the Eastern Church and were used to teach the meaning of an event. This cross contains the story of Christ’s death, resurrection and ascension. 

The Poor Clare order of nuns still exists with its center here in Assisi. Their convent was damaged by an earthquake in 1997 but was quickly repaired with help from the United States through the efforts of the Knights of Columbus.

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: Well when this terrible earth quake came to Assisi it devastated their center of the convent where they have their daily prayer.

CARL ANDERSON: And while many government agencies helped in the public parts restoring what had been damaged in Assisi we had the privilege of helping them in their choir, in the places where they privately pray and to restore that, and so we were very happy to do that. 

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: During the early years of the 13th century there was an enormous increase in religious activity by women. They wanted to follow Gods calling, but they didn’t want to leave home. One result was the formation of the Third Order of St. Francis – a group of men and women who did not take religious vows but committed themselves to a life that followed the teachings of St. Francis.

BURT WOLF: By the second half of the 13th century, donations to the basilica of St. Francis made by women greatly outnumbered those given by men.

SAN DAMIANO

BURT WOLF: At the edge of the city and surrounded by olives groves, San Damiano is the little church complex that Saint Francis was told to repair.

As I arrived it became apparent that the repairs were still underway

Sister Clotilde Mizzi is a Franciscan missionary and resides in the convent of San Damiano.

SISTER CLOTILDE MIZZI ON CAMERA: This is the first monastery of Saint Clare, where she lived and she died here.

We have the monastery, the first where they used to pray and then you go to the Oratorio, that means it was a private chapel, what was the way Saint Clare wanted it. There’s a related story of the Saracen where they came to attack Assisi, and the sisters prayed in front of the Blessed Sacrament and Saint Claire invited them to put all their hope in the lord, and there they heard a little voice of a child that said, "don’t be afraid, I’ll be always with you." And that’s why Clare was more encouraged to take the Blessed Sacrament, and in front of the enemy, she presented herself, exactly what they saw, we don’t know. The fact is that they were afraid and they escaped. And so the sisters were saved and even the city Assisi.

It’s Christmas Eve and all the sisters went to pray, and she was left alone. While she was paying, the Lord permitted that she could see all the celebration that was going in the Basilica of Saint Francis. That’s why later on the Pope made her patron saint of television.

BURT WOLF: The chapel contains an unusual crucifix that was carved in 1637. It shows the head of Christ with three different expressions -- agony -- death -- and tranquility. Which face you see, depends on where you are standing -- left, right or center.

Everything about San Damiano speaks of the simple life that both St. Clare and St. Francis believed in.

THE PARDON OF ST. FRANCIS

BURT WOLF: While praying in the little church Saint Francis had a vision that told him to ask the Pope to forgive the sins of anyone who confessed and received the sacraments in his little church.

Much to the surprise of his Cardinals, the Pope granted the request but limited the period of pardon to a block of 24 hours and only once a year. It runs from evening prayers on August 1st to sunset on August 2nd. 

After the death of St. Francis, thousands of pilgrims started coming to Assisi.

The idea of having their sins forgiven was extremely attractive. The event became known as “The Pardon of St. Francis” and was eventually extended to all Franciscan churches around the world. However, the limited hours of availability still stand.

RETURN OF THE PILGIM

BURT WOLF: When Francis died in 1226 his body was buried in the Church of Saint George in Assisi. But when the basilica was almost finished, the authorities decided to move

St. Francis to the new building.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Just as they were about to take the body inside a group of monks came along and seized it. They were afraid that their enemies from the city of Perugia would come along and steal St. Francis’ body. So they hid it. And they did such a good job of hiding it that no one could find it for 600 years. 

BURT WOLF: In 1880 the remains of St. Francis were discovered and placed into a crypt.

The discovery of his body resulted in a renewed interest in pilgrimage to his Basilica.

A new railway line opened and connected both Florence and Rome to Assisi.

New hotels were built to accommodate the pilgrims. The first was the Hotel Subasio which opened next to the entrance to the Basilica in 1868.

PIETRO MARIOTTINI ON CAMERA: It all started like to be a mail stop for chariots. And the old world had a lot of these stops. Down the ways, communication ways, from north to south, and this was a central point that gathers halfway, Firenze, Florence and Rome.

PIETRO MARIOTTINI: The early years of the 20th century, when the hotel became a grand hotel, a luxury, which was unexpected, strange for the experience of Assisi. 

The hotel is really nested into this part of the hill you know, it’s just a link to the sanctuary, to the Basilica of St. Francis, it’s one thing, it’s a unique position and also very nice. 

When you come in the first impression that you have is probably elegance, because it has its own elegance and refinement, but then when you cross the lounge you go towards the balcony. You really have a birds eye look overlook the valley, which is really picturesque. 

BURT WOLF: It’s still open and the most convenient place to stay. The owners have made all the necessary technological improvements but they have also made a great effort to retain the feeling that the hotel had when it originally opened.

CHRISTMAS CRIBS

BURT WOLF: A three-dimensional presentation of the birth of Jesus as described in the Bible is known as a Christmas Crib or crèche which is the French word for “crib”. The scene usually shows the newborn baby Jesus in a stable, surrounded by his mother and Joseph, the wise men, the shepherds, an ox and an ass, a few angels and a star. The moment is often made to look as if it was taking place locally -- somewhere that was easily recognizable -- near the town or the church. The idea of creating this form of Nativity scene came from St. Francis.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: A landowner in a nearby town gave St. Francis a plot of land up in the woods to build a secluded retreat. On Christmas Eve of the year 1224, St. Francis turned the building into a stable and presented a Nativity scene with a live ass and a live ox.

BURT WOLF: The ox and the ass had been part of the Nativity scene for hundreds of years. They refer to a passage in the Bible where God expresses his disappointment. God says, “The ox knows its owner, and the ass knows the manger of its master, but my people do not know me.”

CARL ANDERSON: Well this is one of the great gifts of St. Francis is the idea of the Christmas crib showing that Christ comes to us as a gift and is really the greatest gift. 

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: And of course our whole tradition of gift giving is a reflection of God’s gift to us. 

CARL ANDERSON: Of course, St. Francis had another idea in mind too with the crib. And that was to show us how this great gift came. Most people expected he would come in riches and his royalty. But he came to show us in such a way what our material possessions really mean. He came in poverty as if to tell us those riches are not so important. The real gift is the gift we make of each other as persons.

BURT WOLF: The Nativity crib has become a traditional part of Christmas all over the world.

THE MYSTIC

BURT WOLF: Throughout history people have divided the world into opposites -- dark and light, male and female, ying and yang. Our cultures have been organized in terms of contradictions and conflicts.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: But from time to time somebody would come along with a different viewpoint. They believed that opposites were not two things in opposition, but one thing in harmony -- that at the same time the way down was at the same time the way up. People who express this point of view are known as mystics and St. Francis was a mystic.

BURT WOLF: St. Francis believed that he was in direct contact with heaven and that his responsibility was to live a life as close to the life of Christ as possible. He preached understanding.

He called all the animals his brothers.

Even during the final days of his life when he was blind and in great pain his vision did not alter and he welcomed “sister death”.

During the days I spent in Assisi, I met Catholics, Protestants, Jews, Muslims, Buddhists and people who were not interested in religion at all.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: But they all appreciated the message of Saint Francis and his love for everything -- animals, people, and our natural environment.

For Travels & Traditions, I’m Burt Wolf.

Travels & Traditions: Siena, Italy - #607

BURT WOLF: During the 9th century, the hill town of Siena in central Italy became a major stopping point on the road between Paris and Rome. By the beginning of the 12th century it was a bustling city producing some of the best wool in Italy, developing a clothing industry and exploiting a small silver mine. 

By the end of the 12th century Siena was a commercial and financial center and her growing economic success began to challenge the city of Florence which was only 30 miles to the north. An emotional competition developed between the two cities which eventually led to the Battle of Montaperti in 1260.

Siena won the battle and entered a period of extraordinary power -- power which rested in the hands of a small group of influential families. One way the families showed their new-found wealth and influence was the construction of magnificent fortified palaces.

The city’s location on the road to Rome gave it a commercial advantage but it also made it a resting place for pilgrims. If you were on your way to the Vatican from virtually any part of Europe you made a stop at Siena.

During the 12th century, the city began building a series of outstanding churches, towers and public squares. And since most of the modern construction has taken place outside the old city, Siena’s character remains relatively unspoiled. Narrow winding streets and ancient buildings give Siena a distinct medieval feeling.

THE CONTRADE

BURT WOLF: Hundreds of years ago, Siena was divided into sub-districts called contrade -- 17 of them still exist. They were not set up simply as geographic boundaries; they were self-governing political and social neighborhoods.

Each contrade has an emblem that represents one of the virtues attributed to Siena. The Giraffe for elegance. The Snail for prudence. The emblem with the Sea Creature and water is the Wave and it stands for joy.

Debra Barbagli is in charge of the women’s society for the contrade of the Goose.

DEBRA BARBAGLI ON CAMERA: Contrade is a kind of life and it’s a life full of people, with people that have the same feelings that you have. And if you need something, you know that in your Contrade you can find this help. 

BURT WOLF: The Noble contrade of the goose stands for wisdom and intelligence. It was awarded the title of noble because of the courage shown by its militia in the battles against Florence. Like the other contrade it has an administrative building, a museum which displays trophies of its past, a neighborhood band, a warehouse for the storage of weapons it used in great battles, a fountain and a community church.

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: Churches historically have been important for their community because of the importance of what happens inside the church. One of the central aspects of the liturgical celebration – The Mass - is the unity of the people attending and participating. And so the spiritual unity on Sunday if you will spills out into the community the other days of the week. 

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Recently, sociologists have become interested in the effects of the contrade on society. They appear to solidify the community and they have given Siena one of the lowest crime rates of any city in the world.

BURT WOLF: The goose is of particular importance because this was the contrade into which Siena’s own St. Catherine was born.

ST. CATHERINE

BURT WOLF: In the middle of the 1300s, Siena was devastated by the plague. Known as the Black Death it reduced Siena’s population from 50,000 to 10,000. It also ushered in a period of religious fervor that produced two celebrated saints, Bernardino and Catherine.

The Basilica di San Domenico was a convent of Dominican friars in the neighborhood where St. Catherine was born. This was the Basilica in which she had her first religious visions.

A series of frescos on the walls of the building tell the story of her life.

She was born in 1347, the twenty-third child in a lower middle class family. At the age of six she began to have visions of angels helping people. During her teen years the visions strengthened and her reputation began to spread throughout the city.

At the east end of the Basilica, on an elevated platform, there is a small chapel with the only portrait of St. Catherine painted during her lifetime. It was painted by her friend Andrea Vanni.

Catherine could not read or write but she dictated hundreds of letters. She wrote to kings and Popes and influenced the politics of Europe.

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: Well 14th century Italy the politics you can describe in one word – brutal. At some point the Popes have enough. And they decide, we’re gonna move somewhere else. And in the 14th Century they move to France, Avignon. It’s sort of like moving out of the frying pan and into the fire. Because they still have all the problems politically in Italy, now they have the additional problem of the influence of the French King on the Papacy.

So toward the end of the 14th Century the Pope Gregory the XI had secretly decided that he was going to move the Papacy from Avignon back to Rome. It’s difficult because of course the French king did not want that move to happen. He meets with Catherine of Siena. And Catherine of Siena begins the meeting by saying, “Fulfill what you promised.” And this comes as a pretty big surprise to the Pope because he hasn’t told anyone what he’s promised. So he decides to get a move on and to move back to Rome.

BURT WOLF: In 1939, she was named Patron Saint of Italy, and a few years later, Patron Saint of all Europe.

ST. BERNARDINO

BURT WOLF: St. Bernardino was born in 1380, the same year that St. Catherine died. In spite of the fact that he was born into a noble family, he spent his early adult years helping the sick. He was known as the “People’s Preacher” because his sermons were filled with realistic descriptions of life -- from what went on in the home of a bachelor to what was going on in women’s fashions.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: He was fed-up with the lawless and immoral behavior that he saw around him and started traveling throughout Italy preaching for a return to the decent and ethical life that he saw in the teachings of Christ. He usually spoke outdoors in big open spaces because the crowds that came to see him were so large they couldn’t fit into a church.

St. Bernardino spent a considerable amount of time calling the Sienese to task for their bad behavior. At one point St. Bernardino was confronted by a man in the playing card business who complained that because St. Bernardino was always preaching against gambling his playing card business was being ruined. St. Bernardino suggested that he stop printing playing cards and print cards with the symbol of Christ instead. And his business got much bigger.

BURT WOLF: Bernardino’s ability to communicate Christian ideas through simple language and symbols was recognized by Pope Pius XII, who made him the patron saint of advertising.

FRANCESCO BASILICA

BURT WOLF: On the top of one of the three hills of Siena is a Basilica dedicated to St. Francis and it was in front of this church that St. Bernardino preached one of his famous sermons.

Maria Elena Torchio is an authority on the art and architecture of Siena.

MARIA ELENA TORCHIO ON CAMERA: The church was erected just with the intention to have many people inside. So it’s very interesting because there is only one nave and no pillars and no columns. It looks like a sort of indoor square. The most important frescos date back to the medieval time. Actually in the church are those ones painted by the two brothers, Pietro and Ambroseo Lorenzetti.

Pietro was asked to paint a very beautiful and dramatic crucifixion. While Ambroseo he was asked to paint something dating back to the period of St. Francis connected to the history of the Franciscan friars. So you find the martyrdom of some friars which happened in the northern part of Africa. 

THE PALAZZO PUBBLICO

BURT WOLF: It was during the 13th and 14th centuries that Siena’s most important public works were constructed including the Palazzo Pubblico which is considered to be one of the most elegant buildings in Italy and the inspiration for many of the other palaces in Siena.

It has been the seat of the city’s government for almost 700 years.

Siena was well aware that its love of wealth and power was often in conflict with it's’ love of the Virgin Mary. The Palazzo Pubblico is filled with art that addresses this problem.

A perfect example is The Portrait of our Lady in the Hall of the Great Council.

On the surface the subject appears to be entirely religious, but that is not the case.

There is a block of text in which Mary warns the government to act with humility and justice.

It says, “I will answer your prayers, but if the strong molest the weak, your prayers will go unheeded.” 

Down the hall is a giant fresco that dates to 1335 and makes the same point in a different way. It's titled "the Effects of Good and Bad Government".

There are two matching scenes. One is Siena under good government -- the other under bad government. Good government is represented by a wise old man dressed in the colors of Siena. Next to him are the cardinal virtues -- Prudence, Temperance, Justice, and Fortitude. Prudence is always at the head of the line because it is the virtue that regulates all the others. Above are Faith, Hope and Charity. In the properly governed city, life is peaceful, work is progressing.

Bad government is marked by the dishonesty of public officials, pride, greed, mismanagement, and the power of special interests.

THE CAMPO

BURT WOLF: The center of Siena, both culturally and physically, is a plaza called The Campo. It is one of the most famous squares in the world and for centuries it has been the focal point of Siena’s political and social life. This was the site where official government proclamations were read.

Early on Siena became a sophisticated self-governing republic and divided itself into associations, each with its own political and economic interests. And the Campo was the spot where the associations came to battle things out.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Differences of opinion among the groups was often settled by an organized street fight in the Campo -- with about three hundred guys to a side. The rules called for fists-only but from time to time a dagger or a sword or a battle axe would slip in. At some point in history they were able to redirect most of the anger into a horse race.

BURT WOLF: The Campo is the site of that race and it’s called The Palio. It was first recorded in 1283 but probably goes back much earlier. The race is held twice each year on the 2nd of July and the 16th of August. The edges of the plaza are covered with sand and the corners are protected with padding. Each of the ten horses in the race represents a neighborhood association, one of the Contrade. On the morning of the race there is an elaborate procession through the streets and around The Campo. The participants are dressed in 15th century costumes.

The race itself takes less than two minutes -- enough time for the riders to circle The Campo three times.

There are no rules of conduct for the race which takes on the character of a moving free for all.

Considerable amounts of money are bet on the outcome and the honor of each neighborhood is at stake.

THE CATHEDRAL

BURT WOLF: Siena’s great Cathedral was planned as the largest cathedral in the world. What you see here today, however, is only a small section of the original design. The arrival of the Black Plague in 1348 put an end to the grand plan.

MARIA ELENA TORCHIO ON CAMERA: The church was begun at just after the end of the 12th century, and it was completed in the middle of the 14th century. It took about 200 years to do all this. It was made in bricks, and bricks were covered with a coating of marble stripes. The idea of using marble stripes came from far away, from the mid-Eastern world. It’s something you found in Turkey and Syria first of all but it's also very evident in Spain, in the southern part of Italy. It’s like a fashion they brought from there.

The relationship with the mid-Eastern world was really very important. They had trade all around the Mediterranean area. They had many families, from Siena they moved down to the mid-Eastern world just to go to Crusades in the Holy Lands. And coming back, they brought back artists’ objects, ideas. So they knew the use of marble stripes.

What is really very unique here in this cathedral is the floor, because it’s something that you find only here. And then the whole floor is covered in marble. It had to be like a picture book, to give messages to help people understanding something. We have to remember people were not able to read. And the floor is dedicated, not only to religious subjects; you find something from mythology, from the classical world, very profane subjects, just to help people understanding something.

The church itself is like a museum. In the centuries they went on adding more and more just to show the authority the importance and the power of the church. 

BURT WOLF: The church also houses the Piccolomini Library which is covered with a series of frescos that illustrate the life of Pope Pious II. The colors of the frescos in the library are original. Because votive candles were not used in the room and very few candles for light, the walls were never repainted. Today when a curator is restoring a work of art and wants to check on what colors were really like during the 1500s, they come here.

DEDICATED TO THE MADONNA

BURT WOLF: The city of Siena has dedicated itself to the Virgin Mary and there are hundreds of stories that tell of her intercession on behalf of the people. The most famous took place in 1260.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: A messenger arrived from Florence with two demands. First, the Sienese must demolish their city walls. Second, they must return a group of Florentines who had gone to Siena to escape Florence’s repressive government. If those two demands were not met a 40,000-man Florentine army would come and crush Siena.

BURT WOLF: The odds were overwhelmingly against the Sienese but they still decided to resist. They went to their, as yet unfinished, cathedral which had been dedicated to the Virgin Mary, placed the keys to the city on the altar and prayed for her help. The next day the Sienese won the battle and totally demolished the Florentines. Since then, every time the city has been in danger, the citizens of Siena have gone to the Virgin Mary for help.

Most recently it was during the Second World War. In 1944, American forces were bombing their way north. Town after town was being hit by allied planes. The German stronghold at Siena was targeted for a major bombing raid.

The residents of the city crowded into the Cathedral and once again asked the Virgin Mary for help. The next day the raid was canceled and the city was saved.

CERTOSA DI MAGGIANO

BURT WOLF: In the year 1314, Cardinal Riccardo Petroni ordered the construction of a monastery on the outskirts of Siena.

A well was dug. A tower was constructed. And the cloister built around them.

During the Renaissance a series of galleries were added along the sides of the courtyard.

Outside the central building the monks set up their vineyards.

Olive trees were planted.

Fruit and vegetable beds were installed.

Herbs were cultivated for both medicinal and gastronomic use.

And for hundreds of years these buildings and the land around them functioned as an important monastery.

But by the early years of the 20th century, the property fell into a dismal state of disrepair.

Then in 1969 it was taken over by Anna Grossi Recordate. Anna spent over five years restoring it and transforming it into a small hotel called Certosa Di Maggiano.

There are only 17 rooms and they correspond to what were once 17 monastic cells. But no monastery ever looked like this. Each room is decorated in a slightly different style.

The public rooms include a library where cocktails are served before dinner.

There is a large sitting room called “The Emperor’s Hall” because of the twelve 18th century paintings that portray twelve of the emperors of Rome.

Breakfasts are served in an area that once was the monastery’s kitchen and has been decorated with traditional Tuscan cooking equipment. When the weather is right, breakfast is also served on the nearby patio.

Dinners are served in a small elegant dining room or under the arches of the central cloister. The restaurants excellent food has made it famous.

In addition to the olive groves and the vineyards there is an occasional tennis court and a helicopter landing pad.

KEEPING MEMORY ALIVE

BURT WOLF: Whenever I describe a church I start with the date of its construction. The structure’s ability to last for hundreds of years is a sign of its capacity to counter the effects of time by keeping memory alive.

In fact, keeping memory alive is one of the primary tasks of a church and it does it on two levels.

On one level it reminds people of the collective experience of their religion. It reminds them that they are part of a group and the solidarity of that group can help them deal with the stress of life.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: On a second level it can remind us of special moments -- moments when we go beyond what we know in our mind to what we feel in our hearts.

A well-designed church or synagogue or mosque can remind you of those moments. But it can also remind you that more of those moments may lie ahead in your life. And that the new ones might be even more significant than the ones you’ve already experienced. 

For Travels & Traditions I’m Burt Wolf.

Travels & Traditions: Santiago De Compostela, Spain - #606

BURT WOLF: Christ, Moses, Mohammed, Buddha and the Hindu prophets all became pilgrims in their search for wisdom and self-knowledge. Their followers were encouraged to visit the holy sites and the sacred relics where miracles took place. Traveling to a sacred place will challenge your everyday life and offer you a special wisdom that you cannot find at home---it can help you heal your soul.

Today, sacred travel is more popular than it's been since the Middle Ages. Each year millions of people travel to the world’s sacred sites and one of the most popular destinations is Santiago in the Northwest corner of Spain. Everyday, for the past 1200 years, pilgrims who have been walking the ancient road to Santiago arrive at the city’s great Cathedral. They celebrate the completion of their journey; they applaud each other, relive moments of shared excitement, and honor their accomplishment.

THE CATHEDRAL

BURT WOLF: Construction on the Cathedral began in 1075. It is the work of many craftsmen and incorporates a number of different architectural styles.

The most famous image of the Cathedral is the main façade that was put up in the middle of the 1700s.

The entrance to the Cathedral was the ultimate achievement for medieval sculpture in Spain. It is known as the Portico of Glory and it was designed like most medieval sculptures to explain Christian traditions to people who could not read. But a thousand years later the Portico also does a good job of explaining to us what life was like in the middle Ages.

My guide to the Cathedral was Manuel Ruzo.

MANUEL RUZO ON CAMERA: The Portico of Glory is like the representation of the glory of Our Lord. So, through the Old Testament that we can have represented here. Moses, Isaiah, Daniel and Jeremiah. The New Testament, St. Peter, St. Paul, St. James, St. John. So what separates old from new? Jesus. Where is Jesus? Up there above St. James. And you are here, so since the very early days of the pilgrimages. The idea of the pilgrimage was not just to convince you that you have to pray to the relics. No, the relics are the way to reach divinity. And Mateo the architect who made this reminded us by sculpting St. James in between us and our Lord. Like telling you ‘listen, you’re doing the way to Santiago, but the goal is not just St. James. St. James is the way to look for divinity.’ And this is very much in line with the thoughts of many pilgrims. 

It’s not so simple. It’s not okay, I’m going to Santiago de Compostela to pray to St. James. No, you are walking to Santiago de Compostela to grow up inside you, something very spiritual and a very wide aspect of the word. 

BURT WOLF: On the arch above the entrance are 24 elders, talking to each other and carrying a series of musical instruments.

MANUEL RUZO ON CAMERA: Some of these instruments are just fantastic. If you look at the two right on the center, that instrument is played by two people. One turns round and round one piece, while the other plays with a key board. Music was also part of the way to Santiago.

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: There is a way in which music transcends the spoken word or perhaps better reveals the meaning of the spoken word. And so it's the most natural thing that the most important speech - speech to God has with it this tradition of being sung. And so in the very early tradition of the church and the monasteries in Europe the prayers were sung or chanted and out of this tradition has grown some very beautiful liturgical music and some very beautiful prayers set to music.

A PILGRIMS CHURCH

BURT WOLF: The great churches that were built for the pilgrims on the way to Santiago went up between the 11th and the 13th century. They were the largest construction projects since the time of the ancient Romans. The most important architectural innovation in these churches was an ambulatory---an extension of the side aisles that passed behind and around the altar. This change in the floor plan allowed the pilgrims to circulate inside the building without disturbing the solemn ceremonies that were taking place. Keep in mind that each year over two million people made the trip to Santiago.

MANUEL RUZO ON CAMERA: The height of the church is 22 meters. Nowadays maybe is not so huge. In those days it was impressive. That vault is unique. And it also had a function because the acoustics of this cathedral are fantastic, are of this world. In those days the most important part of the mass, of the liturgy, was the Gregorian Chant. But it was almost like an obsession because as pure as the sound was, as pure as the chant was, as pure as the prayer was, it was like the idea of chant synonymous with pray. The Gregorian Chant needed good acoustics. 

BURT WOLF: The physical and spiritual focus of the Cathedral in Santiago is the High Altar which sits above the Apostle’s remains. 

Pilgrims climb a short set of steps and embrace the statue of Saint James which has been around since the 1100s. Over the centuries pilgrims have developed a rather intimate relationship to this statue. They see Saint James as a friend, someone who pitched in and helped them get through the long journey. They want to give him a hug and express their appreciation. But even if you are not interested in that level of physical intimacy with the Saint, it’s a good idea to come up here because the spot offers the best view of the Cathedral.

The most spectacular work inside is the canopy above the shrine. It was carved in wood, then covered with gold leaf. It’s decorated with angels, vines, flowers and coats of arms. The objective of a canopy in a church is to focus the viewer’s attention on the altar and this one certainly does the job. Above the statue of Saint James as the Apostle is Saint James as a pilgrim. And above that he sits astride a horse as the slayer of Moors.

Below, a passageway leads to the crypt where a silver casket contains what are said to be the remains of the Saint. They are being kept in the same spot where they were buried in the first century.

THE PILGRIM'S MASS

BURT WOLF: The veneration of relics and the undertaking of a pilgrimage to a holy place is part of almost every religion. In Spain, relics have been admired and honored since the arrival of Christianity.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: But there is no record of any pilgrimage until the discovery of the body of Saint James in Santiago. As a result of that discovery pilgrims started coming to the city and the city became rich and powerful, and quickly learned to honor the arrival of travelers.

BURT WOLF: Each day at noon the cathedral holds a mass for the pilgrims. The country of origin and the mode of transportation used to reach Santiago are announced.

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: The mass in the Catholic tradition and for many Christians is the ritual presentation and he passion death and resurrection of the Lord and so by partaking in this it becomes the most profound expression of unity between the believer and God and the believers among themselves from which then they lead the mass with a greater encouragement to witness to the mercy and love of the Lord.

BURT WOLF: The mass becomes an act of closure, the conclusion of an extraordinary life altering experience. It touches people who have made the journey with a religious conviction, but it is equally impressive to people who have no interest in religion. It is a ceremony that marks the physical end of their trip, the moment of their arrival at their goal. THROWING SMOKE

BURT WOLF: On special occasions and during a holy year the Cathedral puts it’s botafumeiro into play. Botafumeiro means “smoke belcher” and in this case it is an incense burner suspended from the ceiling of the Cathedral.

Eight men are required to control its movement as it swings through both the north and south transepts in front of the altar.

The original burner was stolen by Napoleon’s troops in 1809. What you see here is a replacement that was made by a goldsmith in 1851.

One of the explanations for its enormity was the need to freshen the air in the cathedral after it was visited by thousands of travelers wearing clothing that had not been washed for months. The smoke and the smell also added to the already mystical quality of the building.

RECEIVING THE COMPOSTELA

BURT WOLF: Another essential aspect of the arrival in Santiago is a visit to the Pilgrim’s Reception Office down the street from the Cathedral. This is where you present the Pilgrims Passport filled with the stamps that indicate your activity on the road.

PASSPORT WOMAN ON CAMERA: So you started your way in. . . .

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Leon.

BURT WOLF: An attendant at the office will ask you about your trip, where and when it began, the reason you made the journey, and if you would like a list of recommended podiatrists. To qualify for the certificate you must have walked at least 100 kilometers which is 62 miles or 200 kilometers if you used a bicycle. 

If all is in order, you will be issued the Compostela, a document that certifies your completion of the trip.

PASSPORT WOMAN ON CAMERA: Congratulations.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Thank you very much.

PASSPORT WOMAN ON CAMERA: Have a nice Day.

BURT WOLF: The earliest Compostela that we know of was issued to a Frenchman who arrived in 1321.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: During the middle Ages the Compostela was proof that you had completed a journey that in some cases was ordered by religious authorities or a religious transgression. And in some cases by a civil authority because you had committed a crime. 

The Compostela also separated the real walkers from the big talkers and made it harder for you to falsely include the journey on your resume.

WITH GUIDE BOOK IN HAND

BURT WOLF: During the 12th century the Book of Saint James was published. It is our best source of reliable information on what was really happening here. And it has been translated into English.

The final chapter is a detailed guide to the road---where to stay, where to eat, what to see, which routes to use, and how to cross specific rivers. There’s even a short list of key travel phrases like... “----- CAN YOU CHANGE A 20?”

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Even though there were laws protecting pilgrims and guaranteeing them a toll free journey. The road could be pretty tough. Locals might try and charge you for crossing their bridge or kill you for the few meager things that you were traveling with. And sometimes your fellow pilgrims were no help.

BURT WOLF: When the pilgrims finally arrived at the Cathedral of Santiago they often celebrated with too much drinking and ended up in drunken brawls.

The Pilgrims Guide became the prototype for all of our guide books. But most important, it spread the word about the Road to Santiago and the magnificent city at the end of that road.

HOSTAL DE LOS CATOLICOS

BURT WOLF: Santiago’s most important square was designed to hold thousands of pilgrims. The buildings on the sides of the square represent the four great powers that control the city---the Cathedral represents religion.

The Neo-classic Palace represents Government. It is the headquarters for the regional government, as well as the city council of Santiago. At the top Saint James on horse back leading the Reconquest.

On the south side of the plaza is the College of Saint Jerome. It was founded in the 1400s for poor artists and students attending the local university. Today it houses the university’s library.

On the north side of the plaza is the Hospital of the Kings of Spain. It was built in 1499, with funds donated by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella.

The building was both a resting point for the pilgrims and a hospital for the sick. Pilgrims were allowed three days of rest during the summer and five days during the winter.

The building itself is a major work of art.

Of particular interest are the four interior patios, each designed by a different architect for a different group of guests---one for healthy men, one for sick men, one for healthy women and one for sick women.

Each patio contains an elaborate group of gargoyles whose throats act as waterspouts. The Latin word that gives us the word gargoyle is the word that gives us gargle and gurgle, so no matter how elaborate or scary the sculpture, its not a real gargoyle unless it is draining water.

A description of the facility written in the 1500s, points out that every patient and pilgrim was treated as if the hospital had been built for his or her particular benefit.   The building still takes that approach to its visitors, but today it's no longer a hospital---it is a luxury hotel. In fact, it is the world’s oldest hotel still in operation---part of the Spanish government’s network of Paradores, which are historic buildings that have been turned into hotels.

WHAT’S COOKING

BURT WOLF: After spending weeks or months on the road the pilgrim arrives in a city with a rich gastronomic tradition.

Michael Burros is an American who has lived in Santiago for almost 10 years. He is my guide to the city.

MICHAEL BURROS ON CAMERA: This is the Rue de Franco. This is a wine street. Almost every Galician town has a wine street. It’s where people come and they have a beer, wine, and tapas. 

Tapas is a small snack that you have. It’s usually put on a small plate and that plate goes right over the top – hence tapas – of your glass. So that you can hold the glass and hold the food. And it’s very economical.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Oh, this is where I want to have lunch.

MICHAEL BURROS ON CAMERA: Now these are tapas. Here you have salmon, this is anchovy and date. This is tomato with shrimp and a little olive. 

BURT WOLF: Got one of thoese. . .

MICHAEL BURROS ON CAMERA: The Tortilla Espanola which is one of the most famous tapas. That’s lettuce, mayonnaise, and salmon. This is anchovy and local cheese. 

BURT WOLF: Gracias.

MICHAEL BURROS: Gracias.

BURT WOLF: Very good, very good. What’s that?

MICHAEL BURROS ON CAMERA: These are Pimentos de Parome or Padrone Peppers. They’re famous here which are typical Galician tapa. And they’re boiled in oil. Normally they’re very very mild, but probably today they’re gonna be a little hot. They’ve got some salt on them.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: They’re a little hot.

BURT WOLF: Next day we went back to the Parador for a more formal dinner. Esperanza Senande is an executive at the hotel. Nancy Frey was my guide as we walked the road to Santiago.

NANCY FREY ON CAMERA: This is a very special chicken called Gayo de Cararow with oysters over a bed of cabbage. And it’s a free range chicken and they’re very highly valued. 

This is the specialty of the house. The Galician seafoods are just out of this world. And this has the scallop from St. James of course, turbo, sole, as well as lobster. 

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Ah, Gracias.

NANCY FREY: These are fioas. Which are Galician pancakes in a sense. They’re layered and in each layer there is cream and apple sauce and caramelized on the top.

MICHAEL BURROS ON CAMERA: This is a tarto de Santiago which is the typical dessert of Santiago. It’s made with ground almonds with flour, with eggs, and depending upon where you got the recipe from, people throw in lemon peel or orange peel. And this particular one has both lemon and orange, and there’s a little sprinkling of cinnamon here on the side in the form of the staff of a pilgrim.

JET BLACK

BURT WOLF: One of the few places on earth where jet can be found is the land around Santiago. Ricardo Rivas Mejuto is a master craftsman whose family has been working in jet for generations.

Jet is a type of coal that comes from ancient trees that died during the Jurassic period and have spent the last 180 million years being crushed at the bottom of swamps and rivers.

It’s light in weight. Takes such a high polish that it can be used to make a mirror and feels warm against your skin. Its blackness is so black that the phrase “jet black” has been part of the English language since the 12th century. The gemstone is called jet because that was the name of the ancient Greek city where the stone was mined. His shop in Santiago produces objects in jet with many of the same techniques that have been used for centuries.

There’s not a lot of jet but for over ten thousand years people have been using it to make lucky charms and elegant jewelry.

When Christianity arrived in northwestern Spain jet was the ideal material for small religious objects. By the ninth century jet was used to produce souvenirs for the pilgrims arriving in Santiago.

The Reformation and the subsequent drop in the number of pilgrims traveling to Santiago resulted in a rapid decline in the jet business but there are still master craftsmen working here and with the rebirth of the pilgrimage there is a reawakening of an interest in jet. OPEN DOORS

BURT WOLF: Every religion that has expanded beyond a single area, a single race or a single culture has incorporated the idea of pilgrimage. It is a communion with the sacred that has existed since prehistoric times. It's a ritual journey that can be taken alone or as part of a group. It can be taken with the aim of achieving purification, perfection or salvation. It can be a religious experience in which bonds are established between this world and a higher sphere, between an individual traveler and a community, between the pilgrim as he was when he started the journey and what he has become.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: A journey on the road to Santiago can connect you with the divine---it can open doors to the spiritual, but only you can decide if you’re going to walk in.

For Travels & Traditions I’m Burt Wolf.

Travels & Traditions: On Pilgrimage to Santiago - #605

BURT WOLF: A pilgrimage is a trip to a sacred place -- a place that's been made holy by a special event or because it holds a magical object or both. People have been making pilgrimages for tens of thousands of years -- in fact men and women were going off on pilgrimage long before the idea became popular in Christian, Judaic and Islamic cultures.

People believed that if they saw or touched a sacred relic some of the divine energy of that relic would be transferred to them.

Sacred relics were spread out all over Europe. A relic was usually some part or all of the body of a holy person or something that was in contact with the holy person. Every community wanted an important relic. Relics brought pilgrims and pilgrims brought money and money brought power and power brought more relics.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Most people believed that when the world came to an end the holy person would return to earth and collect all of his or her body parts and at the same time decide who was going back to heaven with them.

BURT WOLF: If you were a believer and well connected you tried to get buried near an important relic. You wanted to be in a convenient spot when the saint came back to earth.

Rome was the epicenter of the relic trade and dishonest dealers tried to convince people that they were being offered an actual loaf of bread or a fish from the miracle of loaves and fishes, or a table setting from the last supper.

It’s easy to laugh at these things, but their effect on people was real. And these days respected scientists are discovering that if you believe a medication will work for you that belief will make the medication more effective. If your trust in an object's power results in your cure, then by definition, it's a miraculous object.

ON THE ROAD TO COMPOSTELA

BURT WOLF: Throughout most of history there were only two reasons for traveling -- you were going to war or making a pilgrimage. In either case you gave up the life you were living and went off on a new and usually dangerous journey -- a journey that often went on for years.

Every church was required to have a relic even if it was only a local saint. But certain relics were understood to be much more powerful than others and those were the ones you wanted to get to.

Power was based on hierarchy – Christ of course was at the top so visiting Jerusalem would be most effective. But Jerusalem was unreachable for most people. Next came the Apostles Peter and Paul who were buried in Rome, which made Rome first runner up. Rome was easier to get to but often in political turmoil. You could never be quite sure of what would be going on in Rome when you finally got there. 

Peter and Paul were followed by the other Apostles with James the Greater being of particular importance because he had actually been with Christ. In Spanish St. James is Santiago, and the great cathedral in the city of Santiago in the north west of Spain was said to contain his complete remains. Santiago became your best shot. It was near enough to the great cities of Europe to be reachable, yet far enough away to be exotic and exciting.

Santiago was at the very edge of the known world, yet in the middle of the Middle Ages over half a million people made the trip every year. It offered Christians living in Europe the opportunity to make contact with someone who had actually known Jesus.

Another reason to go on a long pilgrimage was all the powerful relics that you would encounter along the way. Since every church needed to have a relic, it would be to a pilgrim’s benefit to stop at every church on the road and offer a prayer. 

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: We could simply describe prayer as raising one's mind and one's thoughts to the Lord. And every religion, every people, every individual can do this and the major religions of the world have a way of having organized this in ritual. For Christianity, Jesus did something that was somewhat unique, he said, when you pray, say, Our Father, have the openness, the simplicity, the directness, the candor of a child when you speak. And of course on a pilgrimage this is the perfect place. You have solitude, you have long times of quiet, you are by yourself, you have put the cares of your ordinary everyday life behind you and you can have this candor, this directness, this simplicity of prayer.

THE LEGEND

BURT WOLF: Nancy Frey is an authority on the Road to Santiago and a leading professional guide.

NANCY FREY ON CAMERA: The story of James actually starts with what we know about him from the Bible. He was a fisherman on the Sea of Galilee with his brother John, John the Evangelist. They were, one day they were mending their nets, and Jesus comes up to them and says, would you like to join me in my work and become disciples? And they do. James the Greater becomes the fourth Apostle of Christ.

NANCY FREY: The Apostles are sent off into the world to preach the Word of Jesus. James is sent off to Spain, to preach the good news. He has quite a difficult time. Well, he has the dubious honor of becoming the first Apostle to be martyred in 44 A.D., at the hands of Herod Agrippa his head is chopped off.

His two loyal Disciples gather his remains. And they put them into a stone boat, and that boat is set to sail. It sails through the Mediterranean and lands on the Galician Coast.

So once his body is brought to shore the Disciples take his body and they bury it in a safe place. It turns out that it's a Roman mausoleum. But it's forgotten for the next seven centuries.

BURT WOLF: Then in the year 812, a star appeared above the field accompanied by the sounds of heavenly music. A hermit saw the star, heard the music and followed them to the body of St. James. He reported his discovery to the local bishop who built a chapel over the grave. The site became known as Santiago de Compostela which means “St. James of the Field of Stars”.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: What’s important about this story is not what the historians have been able to prove or not prove, what’s important is the affect that the story has on the hearts of the pilgrims who made the journey.

WHO BOOKED FOR SANTIAGO

BURT WOLF: During the middle Ages, most pilgrims made the trip to Santiago hoping to improve their standing with God, which might then result in the miraculous cure of an illness or salvation in the afterlife. But a pilgrimage had to include some suffering. Suffering echoed the passion of Christ and improved your chances for a successful trip.

Even today there is a fair amount of suffering on the road, nothing like the Middle Ages but still significant. And some people believe that the kind of physical pain you suffer during your pilgrimage is related to your state of mind. Pain in your back or shoulder is related to emotional stress. Leg pains are the result of relationship problems. Lower back pain is thought to come from too much responsibility or too many commitments.

While I was walking the road I developed a sore foot.

But thanks to my loyal soundman, I was able to continue.

During the 12th century, a criminal might be required to make the pilgrimage as part of his punishment. Murderers wore the murder weapon so everybody could identify both the criminal and the crime. Today the head of a corporation that defrauded its shareholders might make the trip dragging his annual reports or his accountant.

BONUS MILES

BURT WOLF: The Road to Santiago is actually a series of connecting roads that have been in use since Roman times. The Irish and the English came by boat and arrived just north of Santiago. The Portuguese walked straight up along the coast. The Silver Road brought pilgrims from central and southern Spain.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: But the busiest road was the French Road. Probably because the French had more sinners. Actually, that’s not fair; the French Road brought people from the Netherlands and Scandinavia and Germany, even from Italy. The Road was open to all sinners without reference to religion, race, creed, or prior position of servitude. 

Let me show you this. Here is the map. The four French roads. They all started in a big city like Paris. And they wandered across the country, joining up together more or less on the border between Spain and France – which is the Pyrenees Mountains. Then on the other side in Spain they formed one road and came across all of Northern Spain, ending up in Santiago de Compostella. 

Pretty cool huh?

BURT WOLF: The routes in France and across Spain were highly developed. They offered pilgrims places to rest, and recover. And all along the roads monasteries and churches promoted the journey.

In addition, many people who lived along the road helped the pilgrims in exchange for the pilgrims offering prayers on their behalf when they reached Santiago.

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: Praying for each other within the Christian tradition is a very important part of the unity that we have, the concern, the love that we have for others and the idea that God wants us to have this unity and this concern and he encourages us to pray for each other and it is a hopeful sign that providence, there is a direction that is beneficial and loving over each person's life.

PROTECTOR OF THE FAITH

BURT WOLF: In the year 711, Moors from North Africa invaded Spain and occupied parts of it until the end of the 1400s, a period that lasted over 700 years. Christians in other parts of Europe were determined to take Spain back and their first successful battle in the Reconquest took place in 844.

Just prior to the battle, King Ramiro I, had a dream in which Saint James appeared and announced that he would join the battle carrying a white flag, riding a white horse and brandishing a great shining sword and that he would help Ramiro win the battle.

Ramiro won and Saint James took on the roll as the slayer of Moors. The idea that Saint James was spiritually present during the battle was a key element in the Reconquest of Spain.

Saint James ended up with three images -- St. James the Apostle. St. James as the pilgrim heading to his own shrine. And St. James on horseback as the slayer of Moors.

THE PILGRIM'S MUSEUM

BURT WOLF: The pilgrim’s museum holds a thousand years of history related to the idea of pilgrimage, the Road to Santiago and the city of Santiago.

Pilgrims to Santiago stimulated the development of a sophisticated trade in print making. Prints served as a means of communication and religious prints were the most common. Prints of the Apostle, certificates of pilgrimage, itineraries, summaries of the indulgences and lists of relics were produced. 

During the Middle Ages one of the most common Christian images was that of Saint James and how he was dressed varied with the fashions of the time and place. During the 14th century the height of fashion in Paris was a long tunic that reached down to your feet, covered by a shorter over garment with a lower neck. Suddenly, Saint James began to appear in a long tunic. And as fashion changed so did his outfits. Particularly his hats.

WHAT’S HAPPENING NOW

BURT WOLF: Towards the end of the middle Ages the number of pilgrims traveling to Santiago began to decline but it never stopped, and these days it's definitely “back live”. During 2004, over 190,000 pilgrims walked or cycled some part of the road.

NANCY FREY ON CAMERA: Well the Comino goes back to the middle Ages when in the Catholic Doctrine the idea of sin was very important, and its remission, and one’s salvation for the afterlife.

Today people come for many reasons. Not only for religious reasons, but also more widely what the people call Spiritual reasons. That it’s an inner journey. You have people here fulfilling a life long dream of a personal adventure, also as a physical challenge. So there are many reasons that combine together to make it not necessarily one idea at all of what the pilgrimage is. A constant in people's memories of the Comino are the friendships that they forge along the way. The bonds go beyond nationality, age, class, religion. You can start alone on the pilgrimage but you never end up alone.

PILGRIM 1 ON CAMERA: Comino is a way that inspires me. I want to kind of find myself. It’s because of my faith as well, a bit. I want to kind of escape from real life.

NANCY FREY: When you’re walking you have this powerful sense of being led. Everything is going your way. All the pilgrims are going west. You have yellow arrows that are indicting that you should go this way. You also have the scallop shells showing you. It’s very clear the sense of direction that you have.

PILGRIM 2 ON CAMERA: I came to Santiago seven years ago and I asked a favor of Santiago. He made it true so now I’m here to say thank you.

NANCY FREY: Unlike many other Catholic Pilgrimage centers, this Pilgrimage attracts people from all different walks of life. There are usually people from urban well educated backgrounds who lead stressful busy lives. And they want to go to the Comino to get away from all of that. There are curiously more men than women who do it. And the average age is 40’s, 50’s. And it’s also typical to be at some kind of breaking point in one’s life.

Walking the Pilgrimage can be one of the most important undertakings of one’s life. And when you become a pilgrim to Santiago you're becoming a part of a fellowship of people who have walked for more than a thousand years.

NANCY FREY ON CAMERA: There are many people who have walked these steps to Santiago including St. Francis of Assisi and even modern day personalities such as Shirley McClain.

PILGRIM 3 ON CAMERA: I’m walking the Comino because I’ve kind of always known about it. I majored in Spanish in college and four years ago a friend of mine walked it. And she sent back wonderful emails. And I just knew when I read those that I had to do it too. 

NANCY FREY: People are also attracted to it because of its incredible value of the culture and the art. It’s like walking through a continuous museum. Everyday there’s something new to see. Whether it be some fantastic little Romanesque simple church in the countryside, or a magnificent Gothic Cathedral with 2000 square meters of stained glass windows.

PILGRIM 4 ON CAMERA: My name is Paulo, I’m a clown. God is great and we must enjoy him everyday. And we must bring the happiness of him to everyone. So I was trying to bring my Lord the fruit red nose to the people. 

NANCY FREY ON CAMERA: And in the Comino everything is reduced to the basics. It’s very simple. All you have to do is get up in the morning, find the trail, find those yellow arrows, think about having something to eat, and your place to sleep for the night. And when you have that kind of simplicity, where everything is reduced to those basics, all of a sudden people have space inside of themselves to have time for reflection. People start walking what they call the human speed. 

PASSPORT PLEASE

BURT WOLF: Pilgrims on the road to Santiago are easily recognized. Many pilgrims can be identified by the scallop shell around their neck or attached to their backpack. The backpack itself is also a sign and so is their walking stick.

For some pilgrims the backpack is a symbol of the baggage one carries through life -- the lighter your pack the more unnecessary mental and physical baggage you have been able to discard. 

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Buenos Dias

PILGRIMAGE PASSPORT PERSON ON CAMERA: Hola, Buenos Dias.

BURT WOLF: Pilgrims also carry a credential -- a passport that is stamped each day as you move along the road. The stamp indicates a pilgrim’s progress or in some cases the lack thereof.

As part of man’s desire to make life as annoying as possible, travelers on the road have developed their own totally unofficial criteria for authenticity. To make the trip on foot is the most ‘authentic” -- it’s the real stuff.

To make it on a bike is “semi-authentic”. Spanish walkers call people who are using bicycles “decaffeinated pilgrims”. To walk but have a support vehicle is not “authentic" but might be accepted -- depending on the circumstances. Make the trip on a bus or a car and you’re off the team.

Many pilgrims also believe that “authenticity’ requires at least a month on the road. Of course, none of these standards existed in the Middle Ages -- you made the trip and that was it. 

UP AT THE PASS

BURT WOLF: At 3,500 feet above sea level, reaching the hill town of Cebreiro is the last great physical challenge for most pilgrims on their way to Santiago. And until the 16th century this was one of the only passages into the Northwest of Spain. 

At the entrance of Cebreiro there is an oval stone house with a thatched roof.

It's the type of building that was used by the Iron Age tribes who occupied the area before the Romans arrived.

In the 12th century the church of Santa Maria was built nearby. It contains a sacred chalice that commemorates a 15th century Eucharistic miracle.

The legend states that the Holy Grail from which Christ drank wine during the Last Supper was hidden in Cerbreiro. A priest who had his doubts about the validity of the story was using the cup for the Eucharist.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: There was a huge snowstorm going on outside and only a single peasant had come up the mountain for the mass. And at the most sacred moment in the mass the priest began to think ‘why has this guy come all the way up the mountain in a snowstorm just for a little bit of bread and wine.’ And at that most sacred moment the wine and bread changed into flesh and blood. And the priest saw the error of his ways.

BURT WOLF: The remains of the miracle were placed in a silver container that was donated by Queen Isabella -- the same Isabella who put up the money for the voyages of Columbus.

Santiago is less than a hundred miles from Cebreiro -- a distance that will be covered in less than a week. The end of the physical trip is near, but for many, the spiritual journey is just about to begin.

For Travels & Traditions, I’m Burt Wolf

Travels & Traditions: Austrian Monasteries - #604

BURT WOLF: As the Danube River runs west from the Austrian city of Vienna it passes through some of the most picturesque scenery in Europe. For over 35,000 years people have been living on these shores. They were originally attracted to the area because of the mild climate and the ideal conditions for farming. The ancient Romans occupied the region and when Christianity became the official religion of Rome the local population slowly gave up its pagan beliefs and built dozens of monasteries on the hills.

But a monastery was not just a center for religious activities. The monks were skilled craftsmen, architects, and technicians. They set up permanent facilities that organized the peasants and showed them how to improve their farming, how to build better houses and upgrade the construction of roads and bridges. When a ruler donated land and money for the creation of a monastery it may or may not have improved the rulers’ value to the Almighty but it was definitely a mighty improvement in the value of the lands that the ruler ruled.

OUT ON THE RIVER

BURT WOLF: The ideal way to pass through this part of Austria is to travel on one of the river boats. They pass up and back between the towns on a regular schedule and are used by commuters as well as tourists.

KLOSTERNEUBURG ABBEY

BURT WOLF: The Klosterneuburg Abbey is just a few miles up river from Vienna and has been home to a group of Augustinian clergy for over 900 years. Starting in the 11th century, they were the first religious order of men to combine the common activities of daily life with their clerical work. 

Herr Clemens Galban was born in New York and joined the Augustinians after working on Wall Street.

HERR CLEMENS GALBAN ON CAMERA: The legend of the abbey is that St. Leopold the Babenburg Margrave who governed this region, he married a woman named Agnes. She was a noblewoman as well and she had all the money actually for the building of the abbey. They went out on the balcony after the wedding, a gust of wind took her wedding veil, which was very precious to her. She brought it with her from Germany. It was part of her dowry. And it blew away and could not be found. About 10 years later, Leopold goes out on a hunt with his dogs, and low and behold his dogs come up to an Elderberry tree and start barking ferociously, and he comes to the tree and Leopold finds in the branches of the tree, Iscot, the veil of Agnes of her wedding. Then of course there is a vision of the Virgin and the Blessed Mother tells him build me a monastery on this spot.

BURT WOLF: Nice story but historically not even close. Legends, however, are not designed to teach historical facts -- they work on a bigger canvas. Legends about the founding of churches and places of pilgrimage often deal with the recovery of something that was lost. This story shows that Agnes played an essential part in the founding of the abbey and that a spiritual force was in control of the events.

THE VERDUN ALTAR

BURT WOLF: Klosterneuburg is the home to the Verdun Altar which is one of the world’s most important medieval works of art. The altar was produced by Nicholas Verdun who worked on it for ten years starting in 1171. It represents religious history in three layers that compare similar events at different times. It’s an unusual idea that was probably developed here at the abbey.

There are three horizontal rows. The top row represents scenes from the time before the law, which is seen as the time before Moses. At the bottom are scenes from the time under the law -- the time between Moses and Christ. In the middle are a series of panels with scenes from the Christian age. In the top row Joseph is cast into an empty well by his brothers and left to die -- yet he survives and becomes the savior of his people in Egypt. In the lowest row the prophet Jonah is swallowed by a sea-monster but is then released unharmed to proclaim God’s word. In the center strip, Jesus is entombed only to rise three days later. Three stories with similar themes—entrapment, escape, and a community saved through the will of God.

THE IMPERIAL APARTMENTS

BURT WOLF: Klosterneuburg is a religious community but from its very beginning it had a close relationship to the rulers of Austria. So close that the emperor kept an apartment in the abbey -- nothing like his big place in town but not bad.

Klosterneuburg was designed as a summer residence for Charles VI -- a place where the royal family would stay for months at a time. This is very different from the royal apartments at most other monasteries which were planned for very short visits.

The detailing is elegant -- stucco ceilings by Italian craftsmen, carved and gilded doors, paintings of the Emperor Charles and his wife Elisabeth Christine. The ceiling on the dining room depicts King Solomon giving a banquet for the Queen of Sheba, a banquet designed to impress her with his wealth and wisdom. The Emperor liked to think of himself as a modern day Solomon.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: And this is the Napoleon Room. In 1805, Napoleon I sent word that he would be coming here for a visit. And with that word came a set of detailed instructions as to how he wanted his room to be decorated even though that visit was going to last less than 30 minutes. Clearly an early example of extreme home makeover.

CHEERS

BURT WOLF: The Klosterneuburg Abbey has the largest and the oldest wine estate in Austria. Documents show that the monks here were drinking their own wine as far back as 1136, which happened to be an excellent year for whites but only so-so for the reds.

DI FRANZ REGNER ON CAMERA: This cellar wasn’t built to be a wine cellar. It was built to be the solid ground for the palace which was built by Carl VI. And an Italian builder made a very strong and huge cave and we use it now to store our wines here.

BURT WOLF: The cellars can be visited as part of a special tour in combination with a tasting. Wine is a serious business here.

THE RESTAURANT BACHER

BURT WOLF: As you travel west along the Danube you will come to the small town of Mautern which was originally founded by the Romans during the first century. Mautern has become well-know among European food lovers because it is the home of the restaurant Landhaus Bacher, which is rated as one of the great restaurants of Austria.

The reason for its outstanding reputation is Lisl Wagner-Bacher who took over the restaurant from her father in the early 80s. She is a self-taught chef who does the shopping and most of the cooking. Her husband Klaus is in charge of the wine cellar which houses an extensive collection of Austrian wines.

We started with her signature appetizer. An egg is soft boiled for six minutes -- peeled -- dipped into flour -- - dipped into egg wash -- coated with breadcrumbs and deep fried for about 90 seconds. A little sour cream goes on a dish. A puree of potatoes. The egg. And a heaping tablespoon of caviar.

Main course was sliced loin of venison and three kinds of celery.

CHEF THOMAS DORFER ON CAMERA: I put the deer in the stove. To caramelize the bread dumplings. Look after the deer. It’s good. These are celery ragu. These are just celery. And celery purée. You get the idea. Cover with the nuts and just cut it. The sauce. White pepper sauce. Just a little bit inside, that's it.

BURT WOLF: And for dessert a cheese soufflé.

CHEF/OWNER LISL WAGNER-BACHER ON CAMERA: And we have there pancakes stuffed also with white cheese. Eggs and white cheese and it’s the modern way of a typical Austrian sweet dish. Bring it here in the hot water for 15 minutes in the oven.

DURNSTEIN CASTLE

BURT WOLF: Continue down river from Mautern and you will pass the ruins of the castle at Durnstein. During the Third Crusade to the Holy Land, which took place at the end of the 12th century, Richard the Lion Hearted insulted Duke Leopold V by taking down Leopold’s banner during an attack. Not cool.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: On his return home to England, Richard had to pass through the lands of his newly acquired enemy. In order to avoid being detected by Leopold he dressed as a simple peasant, but he forgot to take off the royal ring and was spotted. He was taken prisoner and held in the Durnstein castle until ransomed. A serious wardrobe malfunction.

BURT WOLF: A little further down river and you arrive at Melk, one of the world’s most extraordinary monasteries.

MELK ABBEY

BURT WOLF: The town of Melk was founded as a Roman garrison at the point where the Melk River joins up with the Danube about 50 miles west of Vienna. In the year 976 the Emperor of Germany chose the Babenberg family to rule the neighborhood which they did from a series of fortified castles. The castle at Melk was their most important stronghold and became the cradle of Austrian history.

The Babenbergs decided to bury their ancestors at Melk and to make sure that the family burial site was cared for properly they set up a monastery inside the castle. The Babenbergs ruled for just over 100 years, at which point the castle and the surrounding lands were turned into a Benedictine monastery and Benedictine monks have living and working here ever since.

For centuries Melk was able to support itself with taxes from the local peasants and a profitable agricultural program on its own land. These days, however, the major source of income is tourism. Each year almost five hundred thousand people visit Melk.

PRAY, WORK AND READ

BURT WOLF: During the 14th century Melk Abbey was enlarged and fortified and during the 1700s it was rebuilt and turned into one of the finest Baroque structures in Europe.

St. Benedict’s motto was pray, work and read and the physical structure of Melk is designed to serve these functions.

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: Quite simply because of St. Benedict the world and Europe is a very different place. Benedict lives in the 6th century, the Dark Ages, following the fall of the Roman Empire. And he completely changes what it means to be a monk in the Christian tradition. Up until that time they were hermits living separately in huts and caves. St. Benedict does that for a while but then he decides this should be a community. And so the Benedictine model is to bring men, bring women together and to have a life of holiness that is also at the same time a life of wholeness. He promotes a balanced personality of work, spiritual life of prayer and intellectual advancement. And so the Benedict communities become these oasis of learning within Europe and really preserves the learning heritage and a wisdom of the European tradition.

BURT WOLF: The Rule of St. Benedict requires that nothing be more important than the worship service and the Melk Abbey church clearly reflects that instruction. Work on the church began at the beginning of the 1700s, under the direction of Abbot Dietmayr. Dietmayer decided that the subject matter of the art work should be based on the idea that without a just battle there is no victory. And that theme is reflected throughout the interior.

St. Peter and St. Paul in a farewell handshake as they set off to meet their deaths -- their final battle. Christ crowned with thorns battles through suffering to glory. A panel shows the woman of the Apocalypse who battled the dragon. The entire area around the altar represents one idea -- God’s people battling on the road to salvation. The design reaches its peak in the dome. We see the heavenly Jerusalem -- the great victory that follows a just battle. 

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: This idea that there is a journey, a struggle, a battle if you will, a spiritual battle in which although Jesus has won the ultimate victory, one individually has to participate and struggle through and so in the Christian tradition there is no room for the passive bystander, one has to be involved, one has to be part of the struggle and one has to, with the Lord's help, overcome.

BURT WOLF: The abbey library is one of the worlds finest with over 100,000 books including many ancient hand written and illuminated manuscripts.

This book was written in the 1100’s and presents elements from the mass.

By the early 1200s Melk had its own writing room which produced hundreds of illustrated books and was probably the inspiration for Umberto Eco’s medieval murder mystery -- -“The Name of the Rose”.

THE MELK ABBEY MUSEUM

BURT WOLF: In 2001 the Melk monastery museum was built to illustrate the history of the abbey and to help visitors understand the forces that shaped its past.

The most precious treasure and the holiest relic in the monastery is the Melk Cross. It contains a fingernail-size piece of the cross of Christ that was given to the abbey in 1040. The gold screws that hold the two sides of the cross together are the oldest known screws with a right-hand thread which is now the norm.

There is also the lower jaw of St. Coloman. Coloman was the son of an Irish king who was martyred near Vienna in 1012. He was on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, but because of his strange language and clothing he was suspected of being a spy. He was imprisoned, tortured and hung. Almost immediately a series of miracles began taking place and the local population began to view Coloman as a saint.

The Badenbergs heard about the miracles and had Coloman’s body brought to the castle for a ceremonial funeral. The Badenbergs knew that having the body of a saint in their castle would be considered a divine confirmation of their authority as rulers. Coloman became Austria’s first patron saint.

The museum represents all the periods in the history of Melk -- the good, the bad and the truly bizarre. Some of the more bizarre stuff came in during the second half of the 1700s when everything was being subjected to what, at the time, was considered to be logical behavior.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: In 1784, Emperor Joseph II reached a high point or perhaps a low point depending on your view point in terms of logical thinking. He’d come to the realization that the Lord wanted the human body to return to the earth -- ashes to ashes and dust to dust and that a coffin only stood in the way and so he demanded that all coffins be reusable.

BURT WOLF: This is a model of the reusable coffin he introduced. Once it was lowered into the grave a pulley opened a trap door in the bottom and the body remained in the earth while the coffin was pulled up to be used again.

Now as much as Joe loved his reusable coffin, he didn’t think it was quite right for Emperors.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: You see there really weren’t that many Emperors and so it wouldn’t get used that often. And therefore really wasn’t a very efficient piece of equipment – for Emperors.

THE TEACHERS ART

BURT WOLF: The Melk Abbey museum also contains some of the greatest religious art of the late middle ages. These paintings were produced as works that would teach the bible to people who could not read, which was the case for the majority of the population.

An excellent example is the painting of The Twelve-Year-Old Christ in the Temple. Mary and Joseph are looking for him and find him with the scribes. Jesus is sitting on a ‘teachers chair' on the same level as the highest teacher symbolizing that what Jesus says is as important as what the scribe has to say. In addition, the scribe is using a book. Jesus needs no book -- he is saying what God has taught him. In the lower right hand corner is a scribe who has closed his book. All the scribe needs now is the wisdom of Jesus. Paintings like these were explained to the viewers and thereafter each time they were seen, the message was remembered and understood.

The monasteries of lower Austria are still teaching tools. They can remind a visitor that for thousands of years people have struggled to lead a more meaningful life and their belief in a superior being or higher force has been an essential part of that struggle.

For Travels & Traditions I’m Burt Wolf.

Travels & Traditions: The Land of St. Patrick - #603

BURT WOLF: Ireland’s geographic separation from the rest of Europe and the 2,000 miles of ocean between its western coast and North America has allowed Ireland to develop a cultural history that is both rich and independent. Its folklore ranges from little leprechauns sitting on their pots of gold at the end of rainbows to the stories of St. Patrick driving the snakes from Ireland. Today Ireland is a modern European industrialized state but it has held on to much of its folklore and its traditions.

In the year 314, Christianity became the state religion of ancient Rome, and as the Romans spread across Europe so did Christianity. But Christianity in Ireland was different from Christianity in the rest of Europe.

Instead of being centered in a church within a city, the Christian communities in Ireland were located in remote monasteries -- monasteries that attracted scholars and artists.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Some of the world’s great illuminated manuscripts were produced here in the isolated monasteries of Ireland. And as the Ancient Roman Empire fell apart these monasteries became the keepers of Christian knowledge. Ireland slowly evolved into an island of saints and scholars.

BURT WOLF: Christianity, however, did not arrive in Ireland as a new and attractive religion that was quickly accepted. It came in slowly and blended into the ancient beliefs of the Celtic tribes.

THE STORY OF ST. PATRICK

BURT WOLF: Tim Campbell is an authority and scholar who has written some of the definitive works on the history and culture of Northern Ireland.

DR. TIM CAMPBELL ON CAMERA: Saint Patrick was born in a place called Bannavem Taberniae. We don't know exactly where that is. Many people think he was Irish, but that's not true. 

TIM CAMPBELL: He was actually born in Britain. He was a son and a grandson of clerics, but when he was a teenager, he was a wayward minister's son. And, he decided he wasn't interested in his father's faith. He lived in a big estate and he was abducted when he was 16 and brought to Ireland to a place called Slemish Mountain.

Saint Patrick was a shepherd slave for six years on Slemish Mountain. He began to hear voices in his head, which he supposed were God's voice talking to him, and that gave him the strength after six years to run away from his master, probably to the southwestern part of Ireland, and jump onto a ship

Eventually he goes home to be with his people again, and he becomes a cleric because of his experience, and eventually a bishop. 

TIM CAMPBELL ON CAMERA: One night in his sleep the angel Victoricus comes. I call him "Victor the Mailman" because he came with this great big bag of mail, one of which was addressed to Patrick, and it said, "Vox Hibernicus, the voice of the Irish". 

TIM CAMPBELL: More or less, "Dear Patrick, please come back and save us", which he decides then to do. 

BURT WOLF: Throughout the island, altars, idols and elaborate rituals had been in place for hundreds of years. Patrick’s only hope for success was to befriend the chieftains and adapt his message to the structure that had been set up by the Druid priests.

The Celts worship the sun which Patrick accepted, but then he pointed out that some days the sun was around and some days it wasn’t and at some point in the future it might disappear forever, on the other hand, Christ was an everlasting sun. 

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: Of course in the pagan world, and almost every religion, the sun has a prominent place. For classical Greek and Roman thought, Soul Evictus, the invincible sun. But everybody understands that the sun has a life-giving importance in human existence and so for the Christian, the identity of Christ with the sun was a natural. He fills one's life with brightness, with radiance, with warmth and he is the source of one's life and so for Christians the identification of Jesus, the son of God, with the sun was natural.

DOWN CATHEDRAL

BURT WOLF: A few miles away from St. Patrick’s first church is the ancient hill of Down and the Down Cathedral. It was built in the 12th century and has been a place of pilgrimage for over 1500 years. St. Patrick is probably buried somewhere beneath the Cathedral. The date of his death is given as the 17th of March and each year during the month of March people come here from all over the world honoring his memory. 

Joy Wilkinson is the manager of the Cathedral.

JOY WILKINSON ON CAMERA: Well, this cathedral was originally built in 1183 as a Benedictine monastery by John de Courcy who came, that when the Normans invaded Ireland in the 12th century. But its history goes back many, many centuries before that because this was where the early Celts used to worship before Christianity came.

JOY WILKINSON: The Coats of Arms are the families that paid for the restoration in the 1700s. These box pews were family boxes. People paid rent for them. It was very important to be seen to be going to church, and it was even more important when you got here to have a good seat.

The columns that hold it up are the original 12th century columns of the original building with medieval capitals on the top. And the molding around the east window is the original 12th century molding.

So it's just a mixture of all the different people that have been responsible for looking after it since it originally was built. 

ST. PATRICK’S DAY

BURT WOLF: As is often the case, fame arrives just after your funeral, and so it was with

St. Patrick. As soon as he died, the legend of his deeds began to grow and by the middle of the 600s he was on his way to becoming Ireland’s national apostle.

In the year 807, the Book of Armagh directed all monasteries and churches in Ireland to honor his memory on March 17th in what was a spiritual ceremony.

By 1607, March 17th was marked on the Irish legal calendar and was officially

St. Patrick’s Day.

Today it is celebrated throughout the world, though there appears to be a greater emphasis on revelry than religion.

THE CITY OF ARMAGH

BURT WOLF: The city of Armagh is the spiritual capital of Ireland. In pagan times it was the seat of the High Kings of Ulster which made it the logical place for St. Patrick to build his most important church. He built it in 445 on the Hill of Armagh which is now the site of the Cathedral of the Church of Ireland.

Across town is the County Museum with a collection that illustrates the city's role in early Christian history. Greer Ramsey, the deputy curator is an expert on the subject

DR. GREER RAMSEY ON CAMERA: The monks began to record events that affected them and they recorded them in the book that's referred to today as the Annals, and date, the Annals, which would have been compiled in and around the 7th century were probably written in the great monastery at Armagh where the Church of Armagh Cathedral now stands. And the easiest way to describe the Annals is they're like the monks' diary, and they recorded them on a yearly basis. 

And we get a picture of, of great prosperity, a wealthy city. But this wealth and prosperity was soon to be shattered, and it was shattered by an entry in the Annals in the year 830. It says Armagh was plundered three times in one month by the foreigners. Today we knew the foreigners, of course as the Vikings. Why would they have plundered Armagh? What was it they were after? Well, Armagh had everything the Vikings wanted. It had food, it had wine, it had precious metal objects, and a supplier of captured slaves, and they exchanged the slaves for silver.

BURT WOLF: Nearby is Navan Fort which was built at the beginning of the first century BC -- say 2100 years ago. It’s called a fort but it’s actually the remains of a prehistoric sanctuary -- some form of sacred space used as a funeral monument and a place for religious rituals.

It’s made up of a large circular earth work with two smaller round mounds on top. The space is enclosed with a bank that has an internal ditch. The fact that the ditch is inside the bank is an indication that the mound was built as a religious center and not a defensive fort. 

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: This area was the ancient seat of the Kings of Ulster and for centuries the capital of Ulster. You can come here and visit the ancient earthworks, see the ancient sacred ground and even talk to the ancient sacred residents who are always willing to share their ancient and sacred folklore.

BURT WOLF: An essential part of the story of St. Patrick is a visit to the St. Patrick Center in Downpatrick. It is the world’s only permanent exhibition dedicated to telling the story of St. Patrick. Interactive exhibitions. An IMAX presentation. The center can also arrange for guided tours of St. Patrick country.

PILGRIMAGE

BURT WOLF: Two of the most famous holy sites in Ireland were not made by man but created by the forces of nature and both are associated with the life of St. Patrick -- Lough Derg and Croagh Patrick.

MONSIGNOR RICHARD MOHAN ON CAMERA: Lough Derg is a lake in the northwest of Ireland, and in that lake there are many islands, but two are special. One is known as the Purgatory of Patrick, and the other one is known as Saint's Island. The story seems to have been that Patrick went onto the smaller of the two islands, and went into a cave there. And Patrick spent 24 hours in the cave. While there he had a vision of the afterlife. He according to the story got a glimpse of heaven and a glimpse of purgatory and hell, and the suffering that people had to go through in order to be purified, or to grow in order to get into heaven. And, having had that vision, other people wanted to come and do the same thing. They came over the years to Lough Derg and wanted to go into that same cave. As a result of that, a monastery was set up on the larger island, and that monastery in a way ran or controlled the Purgatory. 

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA: Perhaps the best way to understand purgatory is to go back to the words of Jesus, the Sermon on the Mount, where he said, "Blessed are the pure in heart for they shall see God." Although people who die in the friendship of God, they're sins are forgiven, there still must be a time when their soul is purified so they are pure of heart and can be in the presence of God. Dante, when he writes the Divine Comedy, the last part of the purgatory, says the soul now is purified and perfect and can journey to the stars. That's the idea of purgatory, being purified so that one can be in the presence of the divine.

BURT WOLF: In 1632, as part of England’s effort to suppress Irish Catholicism, the British destroyed the relics on Station Mountain and banned pilgrimages to Patrick’s Purgatory. The faithful could no longer reach the island so they would stand on the shores of the lake fasting and praying as if they were on the island.

Despite persecution and suppression the pilgrimage survived. 

MONSIGNOR RICHARD MOHAN ON CAMERA: To this day people go on pilgrimage there, they eat little food, and they spend 24 hours without sleep, and the night of vigil and the 24 hours without sleep is equivalent to being in the cave with Patrick.

BURT WOLF: Over 25,000 pilgrims come to Lough Derg each year. Many of the pilgrims are in their 20’s, but I think they would be even younger if not for a minimum age requirement of seventeen. Pilgrims do station prayers, circle crosses honoring St. Patrick, St. Brigid, St. Brendan, and St. Catherine. Their objective is to find a peace within and a feeling that they are closer to God. 

HOLY MOUNTAIN

BURT WOLF: Located on the west coast of County Mayo, Croagh Patrick is Ireland’s Holy Mountain. The Celts called it Eagle Peak and it was sacred to their goddess of fertility. During Lent of the year 441, St. Patrick retreated to this mountain, and like Christ, Moses and Mohammad in the desert, spent forty days and nights in solitude, fasting and praying. In St. Patrick’s case his prayers were for the people of Ireland.

At one point an angel appeared and announced that his prayers had been heard.

And as a result many Irish souls would be free from the pains of purgatory and that seven years before Judgment Day the sea would spread over Ireland and save its people from the temptations and terrors of the Devil. And on that last day, Patrick himself would be the judge of all the people of Ireland.

During the last Sunday in July some 80,000 people climb to the top of the mountain. Many are barefoot and the sharp stones of the trail are often marked with blood. They are attempting to atone for their sins through physical pain.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: To a certain extent the pilgrimage to Croagh Patrick mirrors the ancient Celtic rites. The day used to honor St. Patrick, is the same day that the ancient Celts used to honor their goddess of fertility.

BURT WOLF: St. Patrick had a great talent for blending Christian rituals together with Pagan rites. His activities at Croagh Patrick and Lough Derg are famous examples but he was doing it all the time and the evidence is scattered throughout Ireland. 

SACRED WELLS

BURT WOLF: As St. Patrick traveled around Ireland, he marked certain wells as sacred and used their water to baptize new converts to Christianity. For thousands of years people have associated wells with magical forces. Each well had its own legend and its own set of powers. Wells were dwelling places for the gods.

The well itself acted as an intermediary between human beings and the spirits. You can still see a remnant of that idea in a wishing well where people leave an offering along with their wishes.

The ancient Romans thought that any point where water came up from inside the earth was a place where an altar should be built, and as they spread their culture across Ireland their beliefs were blended together with the Celtic rituals that had been in place for hundreds of years.

Both pagan and Roman traditions were incorporated into Christianity and the neighborhood well became an efficient place to preach conversion and to baptize those who converted. 

Wells became social centers for the community. In the days before you went down to a pub to hoist a pint, you went to a well to hoist a bucket. Both wells and pubs are known as watering holes.

WHAT'S COOKING

BURT WOLF: Under the theory that the body must be fed as well as the soul I stopped into Dublin's Four Seasons Hotel for a traditional Irish breakfast with the General Manager John Brennan and the Head Chef Terry White.

JOHN BRENNAN ON CAMERA: Traditional Irish breakfast starts with really good pork products, so sausages, Irish back bacon, puddings, both white and black pudding, fried eggs, normally sunny side up, and then like everything in Ireland you can't get away from, potatoes, some really nice sautéed potatoes, as well as half a grilled tomato and a grilled flat mushroom.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: What's in white pudding?

JOHN BRENNAN ON CAMERA: Well it's primarily oatmeal but it also obviously has pork products in it and its just minced together and then turned into like a large sausage, it's sliced from there.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: What will it cost me to keep you from telling me what's in the black pudding?

TERRY WHITE ON CAMERA: Well, that one's a bit different. All the same ingredients but with the addition of some blood.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Anybody's blood that I would know?

TERRY WHITE ON CAMERA: No just a few porks running around the field.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Okay…tell me about the tea.

JOHN BRENNAN ON CAMERA: Tea is something that you get in every Irish home and it's always the same kind of tea, it's like a breakfast tea, but it's always strong, the most prevalent one is from Barry's Tea from County Cork. It's actually so famous in Ireland that they send in out in the diplomatic pouch to the guys who are ambassadors or in the diplomatic missions overseas.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: How do you make the soda bread?

TERRY WHITE ON CAMERA: Well the soda bread is made by somebody who gets up much earlier than I do. They start with whole meal, treacle and Guinness.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: And Guinness…

TERRY WHITE ON CAMERA: We put a drop or two in there. In starts their morning of well and one for the loaf and a little for them.

THE HERO’S JOURNEY

BURT WOLF: The legend of St. Patrick is the classic story of the hero’s journey. Separated from his home and his parents he is held against his will in a strange and dangerous world. But with the help of a supernatural force he overcomes the challenges and returns to save society. It’s the chronicle of St. Patrick but it is also the story of Star Wars and Harry Potter.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: These days it’s very easy to get caught up in our love of science and lose the meaning behind the legend. They say that St. Patrick spent his life trying to banish the snakes from Ireland. Then the scientists tell us that there were no snakes in Ireland to begin with. Does that diminish the legend of St. Patrick? I don’t think so. If you think of a snake as a symbol for a serpent -- and a serpent as the symbol for the devil, and remember that St. Patrick spent his life trying to banish the devil from Ireland. Then it all makes perfectly good sense. It’s important not to lose the real meaning behind the legend.

BURT WOLF: One of the great things about the Irish is that for over 2,000 years they have fought to maintain their cultural heritage and to keep their myths alive. They understand the story behind the story and they make it part of their lives.

For Travels & Traditions. I’m Burt Wolf.

Travels & Traditions: Dublin, Ireland - #602

BURT WOLF: For over 700 years, Ireland lived under foreign domination. But in 1921, it became an independent Republic and Dublin became its capital. In 1973, Ireland joined the European Economic Community and Dublin became a center of international commerce. Irish immigration, which had seen the departure of over a quarter of the island’s population, went into reverse. Irish men and women started coming home. Today, Dublin is also fashionable destination for tourists from all over the world.

For over 7,000 years. Celtic tribes inhabited Ireland and to this day, Gaelic, which is one of the ancient Celtic languages, is the second language in Ireland.

The Celts built their Dublin settlement at the point where the Poddle River joined the Liffey River. The spot was marked by a dark pool of water or black pool which in Celtic was called dubh-linn.

HERE COME THE VIKINGS

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: During the 7th century, the population of Scandinavia expanded so rapidly that the land was no longer able to feed the people who lived on it. The Scandinavians solved the problem by raiding other communities and one of their favorite spots was Ireland. Eventually the raiders became famous as the Vikings.

BURT WOLF: And they loved raiding the Irish Monasteries.

It’s not that the Vikings had anything special against Christian monks; it was simply that the Irish monasteries had all the good stuff. The hit and run raiders who specialized in the Dublin area came from Norway. They enjoyed the hitting part, the running part was really not that interesting.

Over the years, the Viking warriors married local Celtic women and blended their Nordic gods into Christianity. The craftwork of the period shows the interaction of both Christian and Celtic symbols.

ST. PATRICK’S CATHEDRAL

BURT WOLF: Dublin’s St. Patrick’s Cathedral was founded in 1191 and is one of the oldest Christian sites in Ireland. The land where it stands was originally an island where two branches of the Poddle River came together. 

GAVAN WOODS ON CAMERA: Well this Cathedral and the current building we’re in is 13th Century Old English Gothic. And it was built on the site of an older stone church. The first Norman church here dated back to around 1190. And before that there was a small timber church there that predated the Norman Conquest – a native Irish church.

It’s associated with St. Patrick, the site; apparently St. Patrick used water from a well nearby to baptize locals and convert them to Christianity back in the 400’s.

BURT WOLF: By the middle of the 1800s the building had became rather dilapidated. It was restored by Sir Benjamin Guinness of the Guinness brewery. Inside there is a stained glass window – a gift from the Guinness family. At the bottom of the window are the words, “I was thirsty and ye gave me drink.” – Clearly a reference to the role of religion, but not a bad thought for the owner of the world’s most famous brewery.

PULLING THE PERFECT PINT

BURT WOLF: St. Patrick has a very special relationship with Guinness. During the 5th century St. Patrick marked a series of wells as holy and used their waters in his rituals. The one called St. James’s Well fed into the Grand Canal which was one of the sources of water for Guinness. Its unusually pure water was believed to be the secret ingredient in Guinness.

The St. James’s Gate brewery opened in 1759. Arthur Guinness was only 34 at the time but he signed a lease that ran for 9,000 years.

Today, Guinness is available in 150 countries and 70 million glasses are sold every week. And they still have over 8,750 years left on their lease.

The Guinness Storehouse, a museum devoted to the story of Guinness, has become the number one attraction for visitors to Ireland.

There is a detailed explanation of how Guinness is brewed. How it came to be a world-wide export. And the story of Arthur Guinness.

The tour concludes on the top floor, where the bar offers a 360 degree view of the city and a pint of what is probably the world’s best tasting Guinness, having made the shortest trip possible between production and consumption. In the world of Guinness, drawing a glass from a tap is called “pulling a pint” and there is an art to the task.

ORLA HANRATTY ON CAMERA: There are six steps to pouring the perfect pint.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Six Steps. Okay.

ORLA HANRATTY ON CAMERA: Yes there are. So the first step being you have to take a nice cool clean glass. Ok. So if you hold it at a 45 degree angle and then you need to pull the tap the whole way down.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Towards me.

ORLA HANRATTY ON CAMERA: Yea the whole way down.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: The whole way down.

ORLA HANRATTY ON CAMERA: So as the glass is filling if you straighten it up you don’t have to fill it the whole way. You just have to fill it as far as the 1759.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Ok, right up to about 80% the gold line. Tilt back, turn it off.

ORLA HANRATTY ON CAMERA: And then leave it there. And it takes about two minutes for the pint to settle.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Don’t touch my glass.

BAR PATRON ON CAMERA: No chance.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: What causes all that smoke in there?

ORLA HANRATTY ON CAMERA: That is the two gasses which is carbon dioxide and nitrogen. So this is the two gasses forming that lovely creamy head on the top of your pint. And then when it goes a dark color - which isn’t black, in fact it’s dark ruby red – you’ll know then it’s ready to finish off.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: I pick it up right? And this time I put it under straight.

ORLA HANRATTY ON CAMERA: And to finish it off you need to push the tap back. And when we do this we’re leaving out the two gasses. Get it just above the rim so you’ve got that lovely dome shape on top of your pint.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Just about…

ORLA HANRATTY ON CAMERA: Just above the rim.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Now.

ORLA HANRATTY ON CAMERA: Just about there. And that’s your perfect pint.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Wow. Ha, you thought I was just another pretty face. Stop that.

GUINNESS BOOK OF WORLD RECORDS

BURT WOLF: Guinness is famous for its beer but perhaps even more famous as the publisher of The Guinness Book of Records. Sir Hugh Beaver was the Managing Director of Guinness in the 1950s.

One day he was out hunting birds and missed his shot. Later that evening he got into a discussion as to which game bird was the fastest, which gave him the idea of compiling a book of facts that would serve as a definitive reference book.

A book that would settle the nightly debates that took place in the 81,000 pubs scattered throughout Britain and Ireland. The first edition was published in 1955 and contained thousands of interesting facts; however, they forgot to include the fastest flying game bird.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: That error was corrected in the second edition. Ducks and geese are the fastest flying land birds. Since then The Guinness Book of Records has gone on to become the biggest selling copy written book. The only book that sells more is the bible.

DUBLIN CASTLE

BURT WOLF: On the first of May 1169 the troops of King Henry of England invaded Ireland and occupied Dublin. Most of the men were not professional soldiers but tradesmen who had come over from southern England. Many stayed in Dublin and set up shop.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: But the Anglo-Normans or Old English as they had come to be called were fearful of the Irish who surrounded their city and also unwilling to share any of their new found wealth. And so they instituted a system of segregation that was designed to destroy traditional Irish culture.

BURT WOLF: In 1204 in order to keep his treasure in and the Irish out, Henry authorized the construction of a Dublin fortress. It was situated at a strategically important site that guarded the harbor and the four long-distance roadways that converged nearby. It was known as Dublin Castle.

DENIS McCARTHY ON CAMERA: We're in the State Departments of Dublin Castle. The State Departments here open to the public and they date from 1750s. This is the Imperial Staircase that leads up to the battleaxe landing. The battleaxe landing as you can see is very ornate and gorgeous. This was the former residence of the Vicroy, the Queen's representative in Ireland, the head of the colonial government. And this is where his battleaxe guards, his body guards would have stood so to gain entry to the throne room to meet the Vicroy you'd have to get by these guys. This as you see is the throne room. Formally known as the president's chamber. When British royals visited this is where they would have met their loyal subjects or where the Vicroy meet people.

BURT WOLF: Standing at the entrance to the castle is a statue representing Justice holding her scales. Dubliners are quick to point out that she faces the Castle having turned her back to the nation.

TRINITY COLLEGE

BURT WOLF: In 1592, Queen Elizabeth I established Trinity College. On the surface it looked like a generous contribution to the intellectual life of the city. But in reality, it was an attempt to keep the Anglo-Irish nobles from sending their children to Catholic schools in Europe. The heart of the college is the great library.

The English Copyright Act gave the college the right to claim one copy of every book, pamphlet, map and periodical published in the British Isles. And this privilege has continued – the library receives over 100,000 books each year, which means that almost every work of value is permanently preserved for use by future generations.

THE BOOK OF KELLS

BURT WOLF: The most valuable item in The Trinity Library, and the reason that hundreds of thousands of visitors come here each year, is the Book of Kells.

ROBIN ADAMS ON CAMERA: The Drawing Room is an 18th Century building. 

BURT WOLF: Robin Adams is the University Librarian at Trinity College.

ROBIN ADAMS ON CAMERA: The Book of Kells is often regarded as Ireland’s greatest cultural treasure and as a symbol of its contribution to European civilization. Because it survived for 1200 years. 

It’s a copy of the four gospels in Latin written by Irish monks possibly on the island of Iona off the coast of Scotland or possibly in the town of Kells which is about 40 miles from Dublin. Europe was in the Dark Ages. The monks of the time copied the text of the Gospels so they could bring the word back to the people who had forgotten or never heard of Christianity.

BURT WOLF: The book emphasizes the symbols of the Evangelists. Matthew shown as a man. Mark as a lion. Luke as a calf. And John as an eagle.

Each Gospel opens with an elaborate ornamental page in which the text is submerged in the design. Brightly colored animals and human figures are woven into the capital letters at the beginning of the text.

ROBIN ADAMS ON CAMERA: The production of the manuscript was the work of a whole community in the monastery. We can see four different styles of writing. The community was involved right from the creation of the calf skin on which the text is written. And in the production of the pens used they would be goose or swan feathers. Some of the illustrations are very imaginative requiring the artistic skills and there would be specialists used to create those. 

The pigments were collected from this country, from else where in Europe and perhaps even from Asia. And one of the most colorful pages you find up to 30 or 40 different pigments. So it was quite a sophisticated society to bring those materials together to create the manuscript.

BURT WOLF: The book is filled with errors which are marked off with boxes and dots. It was difficult to produce a perfect page in the years before spell check.

ROBIN ADAMS ON CAMERA: We believe that the manuscript would have been taken shortly after it was completed to Kells which was inland and safer from Viking attack. And it remained in a stone cell for about 600 years. 

BURT WOLF: The second manuscript of considerable importance in the Trinity Library is the Book of Armagh which was written in 807. It is the only example of the entire Latin text of the New Testament in the form in which it was used in the Celtic Church. The Book of Armagh also contains St. Patrick’s Confessions in which he tells the story of his life.

THE IRISH HARP

BURT WOLF: In addition to its books, the Library contains a classic carved Irish harp. It was thought to have belonged to Brian Boru, a High King of Ireland during the 11th century.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Scientific analysis indicates that the harp was actually put together about 400 years after Brian died. So it is somewhat unlikely that he ever owned it. But it’s the thought that counts.

BREEDA WARD ON CAMERA: The Irish Harp as folklore would have is that it’s the oldest musical instrument recorded in our culture. Because it had such a strong cultural emblem in our country when Ireland was taken over by a foreign state they tried to dim it down. There was an issue out at one stage to say that if the harp was found that it was to be destroyed. 

BURT WOLF: Today the harp is the national symbol of Ireland.

PUB CULTURE

BURT WOLF: The places where people come together are divided by sociologists into three categories. The first is your home, the second is the place where you work and the third is a neighborhood hangout where people from the area come to talk, to reduce the stress of daily life and to be together with other people.

In Ireland the third group is made up primarily of public houses commonly known as pubs. Very often the local pub is a focal point in the community – the secular counterbalance to the church. Of course, the spirit one confronts in a pub is considerably different from the spirit you find in a church but the sense of group can be similar.

PAUL O’TOOLE ON CAMERA: We’re on a street of pubs now. . .

BURT WOLF: Paul O’Toole is the director of the organization responsible for promoting tourism to Ireland and part of his responsibility is taking me on a tour of the pubs of Dublin.

We started in the Temple Bar district which is a maze of narrow winding streets that run up from the bank of the Liffey River.

The objective of our meandering was the Auld Dubliner which is famous for its music.

PAUL O’TOOLE: Auld Dubliner is a true Dublin pub even though it has moved with the times. And it’s been updated and is probably a bit bigger than it was.

PAUL O’TOOLE ON CAMERA: It’s held true to its sprit and its soul. We've been listening to some fantastic music and that really is the essence of what it’s about. 

As you walk into the Stag's Head you’re going to see it looks a little bit different than the Ault Dubliner…

BURT WOLF: We ended our tour at The Stag’s Head which was opened in 1770 and refurbished in 1895. It is a perfect example of a Victorian pub.

PAUL O’TOOLE: Stag's Head is I suppose is a true Dublin pub as with the Auld Dubliner. But it’s slightly different. You don’t get music at this pub. This pub is very much about the engagement of people. It’s held true to its style and if you look around the pub you see that a lot of the furniture is old. It’s authentic. It’s how it was and it’s a pub known and cherished and loved by Dubliners for many many years. And our visitors enjoy it too.

Pubs are at the heart of where Irish people like to meet most. At heart we are very garrulous people, we’re convivial people, we're talkative people. 

PAUL O’TOOLE ON CAMERA: We like to do that in an environment where we're comfortable. And the pub is that environment. It’s a place we come and share stories. Where we meet friends. We know that if we go to a pub where we’re known we can go on our own and instantly be welcome. It’s a place of warmth of music of humor of tales and exaggerated tales. It’s all of those things. 

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL

BURT WOLF: This is the Four Seasons Hotel in Dublin. The public rooms are rather elegant and designed for informal gatherings.

The rooms are what you would expect in a truly deluxe hotel but they have an assortment of special things that I get a kick out of. The mattresses in every Four Seasons Hotel are made to a unique set of specifications as are the comforters and the pillows. And they have become so popular that many guests have purchased them and brought them home. 

The hotel is famous for its afternoon tea. As the British and Irish middle class got richer they made lunch a big and important meal for business men. That resulted in dinner time being pushed back to 8 or 9 pm. And that became a real problem for Lady Anne the 7th Duchess of Bedford. She just couldn’t wait that long for dinner. And so she began to have a little tea in the afternoon. And then a little sandwich to go along with the tea. And a little cookie, and a little cake, and a scone, and a tart, and some butter and jam. At first she would take these little snacks in the privacy of her bedroom. But then her friends came to join her and the afternoon got started.

In 2003, the hotel commissioned one of the largest private collections of original art by leading Irish artists. The work was then translated into tapestries that are on permanent display in the bar called ICE.

The other art on display in the hotel is the art of Irish whiskey. The hotel has one of the largest Irish whiskey collections in the country. 

THE TIME OF THE FOUR GEORGES

BURT WOLF: The 18th century was a great time for Dublin, especially when it came to architecture. It was a period known as the time of the Four Georges – a reference to the four kings of England all named George who ruled from 1711 to 1830. The area around

St. Stephens Green, Marion and Fitzwilliam squares, dates to this time. Georgian architecture was a reaction to the ornamental design of the baroque – it was a return to the simpler styles of classical Greece and Rome.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: In 1756 the government of Dublin established the Wide Streets Commission. It was one of the first modern government bodies to deal with town planning. And it had the right to purchase any building that it deemed essential to its task. And if the owners of the building did not cooperate the commission would send their workman over during the middle of the night and unroof the building. 

BURT WOLF: The Georgian architects who worked in Dublin were unusual – they not only built private homes like the Georgian architects in England and the American colonies, but in Dublin they also designed magnificent public buildings. The Customs House was built in 1791 and is considered to be a magnificent example of 18th century architecture.

It was also a golden age for music. In 1742, the composer Fredrick Handel arrived in Dublin and presented his Messiah. It was first offered at the Charitable Music Society’s Hall. Because so many people planned to attend the first performance, and the space was so small, a public announcement was made, requesting ladies not to wear hooped petticoats, and gentlemen to leave their swords at home.

Dublin has become one of the most important cities in Europe and is more attractive for tourists than ever before. The food is excellent. The social life is compelling. And Irish hospitality is as welcoming as ever.

For Travels & Traditions, I’m Burt Wolf.

Travels & Traditions: Atlantic City, New Jersey - #601

BURT WOLF: On July 1st 1854 the Camden and Atlantic City Railroad began service between Philadelphia Pennsylvania and Absecon Island which had recently been renamed Atlantic City. The line was 60 miles long and the trip took about two and a half hours. The railroad was part of a real estate promotion -- the same type of scheme that was being used to open up the American west.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: First you bought as much inexpensive land as you could and assembled it into one large tract. Then you built a railroad connecting the cheap land to a major metropolitan center.

BURT WOLF POPS INTO FRAME: Suddenly, your land was worth a fortune so you sold most of it off. But you continued to make money because you owned the railroad that connected the new development to the old city.

BURT WOLF: The Atlantic City promotion was put together by Richard Osborne who had seen how it worked during a visit to the west coast. His partner was Dr. Jonathan Pitney who was well known among the wealthy families of Philadelphia.

Dr. Pitney made the plan particularly appealing to investors by pointing out that the polluted hot summer air of Philadelphia was a source of disease. While the pure sea air of Atlantic City could cure consumption, asthma, rheumatism, pneumonia and with a long enough stay -- insanity. You’d have to be nuts to summer in a metropolitan area when Atlantic City was so close. Simple plan and it worked. By 1900, the trip from Philadelphia took only 60 minutes and Atlantic City was America’s favorite seaside resort.

BY THE BEAUTIFUL SEA

BURT WOLF: During the spring of 1855, the city government employed America’s first official life guard. He was known as a “constable of the surf” and everyday, between 11am and 2pm, he walked the beach in a bathing suit, ready to respond to any emergency.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: As more and more people entered the surf a volunteer lifeguard service developed. At the end of each rescue they would solicit donations from the crowd that had witnessed the event. Unfortunately many of those rescues were staged and not real and the funds that they derived went to an activity that consisted primarily of drinking in the local bar.

BURT WOLF: In 1892, the city replaced the volunteers with a professionally organized and fully funded beach patrol. It was the first of its kind in the world and it is still in operation.

CHIEF ROD ALUISE ON CAMERA: Today we have fifty boats and fifty lifeguard towers watching our bathers in Atlantic

City. The classic Atlantic City rescue is brought on by a riptide usually. More people are caught in riptides that any other condition that requires a rescue. We use a row boat, two lifeguards in other boats towards the victim; they are supported by swimmers on hand buoys.

THE BOARDWALK

BURT WOLF: Atlantic City has a unique beach. It is unusually wide and the sand is extremely soft. It was, and still is, a major attraction. But during the 1800s, it was less attractive to the owners of the Camden and Atlantic Railroad. Passengers were continually dragging sand into their cars. And the owners of the grand beachfront hotels found it even more annoying as guests shuffled sand into their oriental carpets. The railroad and the hotels needed something that would allow visitors to stroll along the beach but keep their feet out of the sand.

On the 16th of June 1870, railroad conductors and hotel owners rejoiced at the opening of the first section of the Atlantic City boardwalk. It was one mile long, ten feet wide, and cost five thousand dollars. A city ordinance prevented the establishment of any commercial activities within thirty feet of the walk. At the end of each season the boards were taken up and stored until spring.

The present boardwalk was put in place in 1916 and incorporated a number of improvements. From the very beginning the Atlantic City boardwalk was associated with romantic encounters. It was a place to meet, to be inspired by the seaside setting and to flirt.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Judging from historical documents of the period, and my own personal experience, romance can affect your sense of balance in ways you might never expect. There were daily reports of people falling off the boardwalk while flirting. And so railings were introduced and people pretty much stopped flirting.

BURT WOLF: Some inhabitants were offended by the public display of affection and even though they were originally introduced for the benefit of people with disabilities, the semi-private environment of the rolling chair became extremely popular.

An authentic antique rolling chair and the rest of Atlantic City’s history is preserved in the Atlantic City Historical Museum which sits just off the boardwalk on Garden Pier.

HERB STERN ON CAMERA: The museum was founded by a few local people who had a collection on their own and wanted to save some of the things that they had, was about 20 years ago when it was first started. This case has a lot of the pictures of the old boardwalk hotels and a lot of the souvenirs. There’s a gown and a robe from the past Miss Americas. A lot of things about the beach and the boardwalk and the beach patrol, bathing beauties, a lot of fun things and a lot of important things.

SALT WATER TAFFY

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Salt water taffy was created in 1883 by an accident or an Act of God depending on your viewpoint. It was a guy named David Bradley and he had a little candy stand on side of the Boardwalk. And one night there was an unusually high tide that soaked his stock. The next day a little girl came in and asked for some taffy. And Bradley wanting to be sarcastic said “salt water taffy you mean”. The little girl walked outside and said to her mother “The man called it salt water taffy.” And Bradley soon realized that this was going to give him an enormous marketing advantage.

BURT WOLF: The business is being run by Frank Glaser whose family has been making candy for five generations.

FRANK J. GLASER ON CAMERA: The James and Fralinger’s both started in the 1880’s. Both were intense competitors for years til about the 1990’s when luckily I became the owner of both companies. I’ve kept them separate. I’ve kept the product separate. There are different ingredients in both and we kept the packaging completely separate. 

The process of making salt water taffy really starts with the cooking. We take the main ingredients, sugar, corn syrup and a few special secret ingredients, put them into a stainless-steel kettle and cook them up to the desired temperature. Once we hit that temperature then we pump or suck the batch into a vacuum chamber. Now that vacuum chamber is basically cooking it very quickly, flashes off the rest of the moisture, makes it a very nice dry tender piece of candy. Once we’re done with that process then we cool it.

Once it’s cooled to the desired temperature then we pull it. That aerates it, makes it chewy, it’s not as dense, and that’s when we add the flavor and the color to bring out the flavors of the taffy. Once we’re finished pulling the taffy we run it through a cut and wrap machine. That’s about seven hundred pieces of taffy going through the machine a minute. And we wind up with a finished piece of salt water taffy ready for the store.

THE GRAND HOTELS

BURT WOLF: The first of the grand hotels to be built in Atlantic City was The United States Hotel. It was opened in 1854 and charged $3.50 for a deluxe accommodation. The United States was followed by dozens of new hotels each catering to the specific needs of its clientele.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Some people came to Atlantic City to recover their health; some people came to hang out with members of their social set, and some people came to walk the boardwalk in the hope of finding romance. Of course, if you played your cards right, you could probably find romance, recover your health and marry into the social set of your dreams. Atlantic City has always been promoted as a place where anything could happen. And it still is.

BURT WOLF: On July 3, 2003 the Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa opened in the middle of Atlantic City’s Marina District. It was the first new casino to be built in the city for over ten years and it represented the newest generation of accommodations.

MIKE FACENDA ON CAMERA: The market pretty much was telling us they wanted something that was fun, upscale, international, sensual and energetic and that’s what we decided to build here.

BURT WOLF: It has over 2,000 guest rooms and suites, 11 restaurants, a 50,000 square foot spa and a casino with 3,600 slot machines and 170 tables.

Victor Tiffany is in charge of food and beverage.

VICTOR TIFFANY ON CAMERA: Susanna Foo’s a wonderfully talented chef. We built a beautiful restaurant for her here. This is only her second restaurant. She uses the best, freshest ingredients. She’s often at the market, she’s also at the fish market, she picks out a lot of the produce herself. Honestly delicious.

BURT WOLF: I opened with a trio of crab. Crab salad, crab spring roll, and a shrimp and crab cake. Then a taste of Susana’s seared tuna. And finally honey walnut chicken with mango.

VICTOR TIFFANY: Old Homestead we like to say opens up a new restaurant every 125 years or so. So this is their second outpost. Casinos and steak seem to go hand in hand.

BURT WOLF: Suggested starters were clams casino, a wedge of iceberg lettuce with blue cheese dressing and apple wood bacon and the chef’s bread. Then a prime steak, classic creamed spinach and hashed brown potatoes. For dessert, cheesecake, triple chocolate cake and crème Brule. I have no idea what the crew ordered.

At the start of the 21st century, Atlantic City once again needed to adjust its image. It could no longer prosper as a location for older gamblers who were bused in for the day. It had to become a vacation destination that was also attractive to non-gamblers.

It opened an elaborate area for shopping, under the theory that if you won in the casinos, emotionally you wanted to go shopping, and if you lost in the casinos, emotionally you needed to go shopping.

The Quarter at the Tropicana is a shopping, dining and entertainment area designed to look like an idealized neighborhood in pre-revolutionary Havana. The Cuba Libra Restaurant & Rum Bar has a Cuban menu, authentic salsa, Latin music and an area for smoking cigars.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: When they hear the word Havana many people think about cigars. But there are things you need to know to pick a good cigar. You want it to be firm, no soft spots, nothing cracking or breaking away. No water marks. Whether it has a band or not is unimportant. You want it to be made from the finest ingredients, and you want it to have a great aroma. And whether its milk chocolate or dark chocolate is really up to you.

BURT WOLF: And in keeping with the theme of socialist republics, we find Red Square, a vodka, caviar bar and restaurant that will lend you a fur coat so you can sit in a freezer while they sip vodka served at 10 degrees below zero.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Nastrovia!

BURT WOLF: And to celebrate your survival in the freezer they offer a martini multi-pour. And just down the street is The Sound of Philadelphia that offers Soul, R&B and Jazz.

FEMALE SINGER SINGSThe love, the love, the love, I lost…

WHAT’S COOKING

BURT WOLF: During the Second World War German submarines patrolled the waters just off the coast of Atlantic City and were a constant source of danger to our ships.

Submarines, both German and American were on the minds of local residents when the war ended.

In 1946, in commemoration of the submarine service of the United States, the White House Sub Shop introduced the sub sandwich.

PHIL “MOUSIE” LAROCCA ON CAMERA: These are your most popular sandwiches, your cheese steak and your Italian hoagie. We do quality sandwich, the sandwiches never change the whole time we’ve

been here and we’ve been here going on 59 years.

BURT WOLF: The walls are covered with photographs of famous devotees of the White House Sub and some truly bazaar celebrity memorabilia.

PHIL “MOUSIE” LAROCCA ON CAMERA: We’ve had everybody in here. Vic Damone, Dean Martin, Jerry Lewis, Sammy Davis Junior. Frank Sinatra I don’t every remember him being in here I’ll be telling the truth. He would always call and if he was in Vegas or somewhere somebody would get it ready in a box. They’d fly it to Vegas and he fed all his people. Any activity goes on they come in here.

THE BIRTH OF THE BANDIT

BURT WOLF: In 1895, Charles Fey, a San Francisco machinist built the first slot machine. It had three spinning wheels with images based on the suits in a deck of cards. Each wheel also had an illustration of the Liberty Bell. Three bells in a row produced the big payoff -- fifty cents. He placed it in a local saloon as a test and it was an immediate success and he’d became the father or perhaps godfather of the slot machine business. The modern versions are controlled by microprocessors and utilize elaborate themes but they are all derivative of Fey’s one-armed bandit.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: They were originally introduced in the 1930s as a source of entertainment for the wives and girlfriends of the high rollers who were over at the table games. By 1990 they had surpassed the tables games. Today two-thirds of the income for a casino in the United States come from the slot machines.

BURT WOLF: Slots are attractive because the game is played at the pace of the player. Things can move as fast or as slow as you please. In addition slots don’t require any special skill.

Gambling particularly slot machines are not just about winning money. A properly designed slot machine should also be a source of entertainment. If you win some money, hey that’s great. If not, you should be getting your money’s worth in entertainment.

One of the great entertainers in the slot machine category is Mac Seelig the founder of the AC Coin & Slot Company.

MAC SEELIG ON CAMERA: People are here for entertainment today Burt. They don’t look just to play a slot machine. If you look around this whole casino you see different types of games that have different top boxes on them so it’s not the old slot machine that we knew thirty, forty years ago. The ergonomics have become very important to the player. In the original days you have a very nothing box with a very nothing chair. Chairs are more comfortable so people sit longer and not get uncomfortable. So the entertainment factor plus the comfort factor people have more fun and they stay longer.

MONOPOLY

BURT WOLF: The all time best-selling board game is Monopoly.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Pennsylvania Railroad. 

MAN’S VOICE: Who owns that? It’s for sale.

BURT WOLF: I’ll buy it. How much is it?

MAN’S VOICE: Two hundred dollars.

BURT WOLF: Since its introduction in 1930, millions of sets have been sold. The game is based on the buying, selling and trading of real estate and was transformed by Charles Darrow who lived in Philadelphia. But he did not use the names of Philadelphia streets and corporations on his board. All of the properties are based on streets in Atlantic City which Darrow came to know because of his frequent vacations to the beach.

When Darrow finished his redesign he tried to sell Monopoly to the Parker Brothers Toy Company. But Parker turned it down.

MAN’S VOICE: Okay big roll.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Darrow decided to go ahead on his own and manufactured a few thousand sets which he sold in Philadelphia stores. They were an immediate success. Parker Brothers saw the error of their ways, revised their opinion, and bought the rights from Darrow. His royalties made him so wealthy it was almost as if he owned Boardwalk.

KITE FLYERS

BURT WOLF: Kites were probably invented about 3,000 years ago in China. They have been used to send up signal flags, drop propaganda leaflets, spy on enemy armies, send radio signals, forecast the weather, conduct scientific experiments, and contact the gods.

Kites are still used by scientists and explorers but these days most kites are flown as a sport and the perfect place to fly one is the beach at Atlantic City. The people to fly with are the members of the South Jersey Kite Flyers, a local kite club that promotes kite flying as a hobby and an art form. They organize kite flies, attend kite festivals, and conduct kite making workshops for children and adults and adults that behave like children. Most of all they just go out to have fun.

What’s the best way to launch a kite?

KITE FLYER: Well, if you have really good wind it will practically launch by itself, if not you have a helper.

BURT WOLF: Okay let me be the helper. What do I do?

KITE FLYER: Just going to hold it up. Okay, when I say let it go – you’re just going to let it go.

Okay, let it go.

BURT WOLF: Up - Up - Fly - Fly

FASTEN YOUR SEAT BELT

BURT WOLF: During the summer of 1919, aviation pioneers from all over the world flew into Atlantic City for the Pan American Aeronautical Congress. The city had put aside a special field for their use. The press covered the event and described the field as an “airport” -- it was the first time the title was officially used.

Today the new Atlantic City airport is used by over one million passengers each year. It’s big enough to offer all the services of a major airport but small enough to offer easy access. But being Atlantic City it’s not enough to be the first flying field to be called an airport. You need to have something that brings additional attention.

FEMALE VOICE SPACE SHUTTLE: Time to touch down now. Thirty-four seconds.

BURT WOLF: Accordingly, the South Jersey Transportation Authority built an airport with a 10,000 foot runway designed to be an alternative landing site for the Space Shuttle.

FEMALE VOICE SPACE SHUTTLE: And gear touchdown.

MAN’S VOICE: Put on the breaks.

THERE SHE IS

ANNOUNCER SINGS: Oh, there she is, Miss America…

BURT WOLF: On September 7th, 1921 sixteen year old Margaret Gorman became the first Miss America.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: The idea for the Miss America Pageant came from a group of Atlantic City business men who wanted to extend the season by one more weekend. They settled on a post Labor Day event that would include a parade of rolling chairs, a Revue of Bather’s, some night time extravaganza and a beauty contest.

ANNOUNCER: Atlantic City…Youthful and relaxing…

BURT WOLF: From the beginning of its history Atlantic City worked hard to promote itself to the rest of the world. The Miss America Pageant is only one example. These days the big events include the Race Across America and the Atlantic City Air Show.

For over 150 years Atlantic City has been attracting high rollers. For Travels & Traditions, I’m Burt Wolf.

Travels & Traditions: Vatican City and the Papacy Hour - #600

BURT WOLF:

On October 16th 1978, Karol Wojtyla entered a small room in St Peter’s Basilica, put on a white robe, a short red cape and a white scull cap. A few minutes later he stood at a balcony facing St. Peter’s Square. He had become John Paul II, the 264th

Pope, the spiritual leader of one out of every five people on the planet. As “the Holy Father”, he headed an institution that had outlasted the Roman Empire, encompassed more territory than the lands of Alexander the Great and had a more significant impact on history than the dynasties of Spain, France and England combined. He could influence the behavior of government officials in their anti-rooms, corporations in their boardrooms and private citizens in their bedrooms.

I wanted to know why the Papacy became so important. What it’s been doing for the past 2000 years and what was it going to be doing in the future.

BURT WOLF:

In the middle of my trip John Paul II died.

Hundreds of television, radio and newspaper reporters came to cover the story. And over two million pilgrims arrived to say good-by to a man whose papacy lasted for 27 years and changed the world. My questions were more valid than ever.

 IN THE BEGINNING

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The first thing I learned is that the history of the Papacy is not just the history of the Catholic Church. The story of the Papacy is actually an essential part of the history of the entire world.

BURT WOLF:

Christ was a traveling rabbi who preached in Palestine. His life on earth, death and resurrection were seen as having been prophesized in the sacred books of Judaism. His followers were centralized in Jerusalem but within a decade of his death, Christianity began spreading throughout the Middle East. The primary messenger was St. Paul.

Paul was a well-educated Roman citizen who believed that Christ’s message was not only for the Jews. Paul taught that Christianity offered everyone the opportunity to be reconciled with God. Paul was the messenger of the early Church but not the leader.

That was the responsibility of Peter, a fisherman from Galilee who became the spokesman for the Apostles. 

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA:

To understand the Papacy, I think we have to begin by understanding the Apostles.  These are Disciples of Jesus that he chose, and then he commissioned to go out into the world and teach.  So essentially, the Papacy is a teaching office.  But then Peter has something else.                 

Peter from the beginning is seen as someone who has received revelation from the Father, and a special commission and authority from the Son.  And so he's seen at the beginning as the head of the Church in Jerusalem.  He goes to Rome and is seen as the head of the Church in Rome.  And this special status is respected from the very beginning. 

BURT WOLF:

At the time, Rome was the center of the Empire and had a thriving Jewish population of about 50,000. They were in close touch with the Jews of Palestine and were well aware of the events surrounding Christ.

MONSIGNOR WILLIAM A. KERR ON CAMERA:  

The Jewish Diaspora had Jewish peoples living all over the Roman Empire, but many had migrated and settled in Rome.  There was a strong Jewish community, a section of Rome almost, that was Jewish, and these persons were integrated into the Empire, they were powerful, they were significant.  But they were also held in suspicion by the Romans.  They became interested early on in what was going on in Jerusalem, they became interested in the Christ, they began to convert to Christianity, and when Peter and Paul came to them, they were welcomed by these people.

They were curious, they wanted to hear what Peter and Paul had to say, but they also wanted to be instructed by them. 

BURT WOLF:

Christianity was spreading quickly and the Emperor Nero took notice of both Peter and Paul.  He was offended by their teachings and in the middle of the first century had them put to death. But that did little to stop the growth of Christianity. The followers of Christ continued to practice their faith.

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They met in private homes and market places. There was no single individual in charge and many conflicting opinions as to what was the “true” faith. It became increasingly apparent that a more structured approach was necessary. The answer became the Papacy a single bishop carrying on the tradition of St Peter.

VATICAN CITY

BURT WOLF:

Today Rome’s Vatican City is the epicenter of the Papacy. With a population of only 550 and a landmass of just over 100 acres, it’s the world’s smallest independent state. It has its own newspaper with an international circulation. Its own book publisher. Its own television network.  Its own police force. Its own stamps and a postal service to go along with them.

It also has its own radio station that went on the air in 1931.

ANNOUNCER:

The Pope for the first time in the nineteen hundred years Catholicism has sent his voice throughout the world.  With this broadcast his Holiness celebrates the ninth anniversary of his coronation as Pope Pius the XI…

BURT WOLF:

It was one of the first international stations and was actually built by Marconi who was the inventor of wireless communication.

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The world Vatican comes from a Latin word meaning prophecy and during Roman times Vatican Hill was a place where fortune-tellers would offer their advice, for a fee, to the general public.

BURT WOLF:

During the first century a racetrack was built nearby and used by the emperor Nero to stage elaborate spectacles. His favorite was killing Christians.

Nero’s circus is gone, replaced by St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican. It was built in 1656 and is almost the same size as the ancient Roman Forum.  It’s partially enclosed by two semicircular colonnades. Above the colonnades are statues of saints and martyrs.

The double-colonnades symbolize the outstretched arms of the Church, welcoming and protecting the faithful. It is considered to be one of the worlds finest examples of civic architecture and can hold over 250,000 people.

The square is the approach to St. Peter’s Basilica.

ST. PETER’S BASILICA

BURT WOLF

Historians believe that the basilica was built right next to the spot where St. Peter was martyred. As a condemned criminal he was not permitted a normal burial so his remains were secretly recovered and placed in the public necropolis on Vatican Hill.

In 1940, workmen digging below the basilica found a burial chamber that dated to the first century. A small space below the chamber appeared to be the tomb of St. Peter. That belief is supported by an adjacent wall that is covered with the names of pilgrims asking for St. Peter’s help.

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA:

And then they found something very unusual, or, you might say they didn't find something they expected and that was there were no feet on the skeleton.  And you remember, Saint Peter was crucified upside down, so they surmise the easiest way for the Romans to take him down was simply to cut him off at the feet and let the body drop.  Peter had chosen a successor, Linus, as the next Bishop of Rome, and it was Linus who took the body, and with colleagues, buried it.

BURT WOLF:

At the beginning of the 4th century, Constantine, was the emperor of Rome and believed that a dream with a vision of the cross gave him an important military victory. He converted and made Christianity the official religion of the empire.

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Constantine’s conversion may or may not have been heartfelt, but it was definitely part of his big plan, he did everything he could to advance the Christians standing within the Romans and at the same time everything he could to advance his own standing with the Christians.

BURT WOLF:

In 323, he ordered the construction of a huge basilica designed to sit directly above the cemetery where the remains of St. Peter were buried.

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA:

It was a difficult project because number one he wanted to put the altar of the church right over the tomb of St. Peter which meant he had to cover a pagan cemetery which was sacred ground and aristocracy was buried there so very controversial.  Secondly it’s on a hillside.  He’s got to move tons of earth and third he’s got a stream moving through it.  So he’s got to work around the stream.  In any event he builds the Basilica but he goes through all of that effort, all of that controversy, because he wants the Basilica over the tomb of St. Peter.  Why, because St. Peter is so revered by the early church.

BURT WOLF:

Additional churches and monasteries were constructed alongside the basilica, as well as buildings to house and feed the thousands of pilgrims who came to pay tribute to St. Peter. The basilica itself stood up to continual use for 1200 years. 

But during the 1400s it began to disintegrate and a plan was developed for a new structure.  Michelangelo built a 16-foot high model of the dome so he could make a series of stress tests. His dome was 137 feet wide and 440 feet above the floor of the basilica. He was an artist, an architect and an engineer.

Work got under way in 1450 but like most construction projects it ran over budget. To help raise the needed funds the Church offered to pray for your well being in the afterlife in exchange for a meaningful donation during your present life. Some people considered this scandalous and it became a major irritant for Martin Luther. Construction on St. Peter’s also ran a little late. The opening dedication took place in 1626---226 years after workers began digging the foundation.

Today St. Peter’s Basilica is the largest Christian church in the world. On the base of the dome are the words that Christ spoke to Peter. Taken from chapter sixteen of Matthew’s Gospel they make Peter the head of the Church on earth.

“Thou art Peter, and upon this Rock I will build my Church, and I will give to thee the keys of the Kingdom of Heaven.”

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Peter is linked directly to Christ. And the Pope is seen as the successor to Peter. The authority of the Pope rests in the continuity of that relationship. Throughout its history the Papacy has had two major tasks. First it had to develop a uniform vision of Christianity and see that that vision was taught in every Catholic Church throughout the world. And secondly it had to act as a counter balance to the power of the world’s secular leaders. 

SAN GIOVANNI IN LATERANO

BURT WOLF:

St. Peter’s is the most visited church in Rome, but San Giovanni in Laterano is the official Cathedral of Rome and the church of the Pope. For the last two thousand years this is where the Popes were crowned. And only a Pope may say Mass at the main altar.

Originally this was the home of a wealthy Roman family. In 67 AD, the head of the family was implicated in a plot against Nero and executed. 

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The building passed to a member of the family named Fausta. And it was part of her dowry when she married the Emperor Constantine, and when the Emperor Constantine made Christianity the official religion of the Empire he donated the building to the Church. It soon became the official residence of the Popes and remained so until the 1500s.

BURT WOLF:

In the year 326, Constantine’s mother, St. Helena, had 28 marble steps removed from the palace of Pontius Pilate in Jerusalem and brought to San Giovanni. This was the staircase that Jesus climbed to face Pontius. It’s called the Scala Santa, “the sacred staircase”. During the 16th century it was moved across the street to a new Papal palace. Today, the faithful make the assent on their knees.

At the top of the steps is the Sancta Sanctorum. For centuries it was the private chapel of the Popes and held two silver busts containing the heads of St. Peter and

St. Paul. During the 1920s they were moved to Vatican City.

San Giovanni is also the site of what may be the first Christian baptistery. It is an eight-sided building detached from the basilica. It became the architectural prototype for all the baptisteries that followed. 

In the center of the piazza, in front of the church, is the world’s largest ancient obelisk. An obelisk is a single tapered pillar. They were originally put up in pairs to mark the entrance to ancient Egyptian temples. The sides are covered with Egyptian characters that refer to the Sun god and the achievements of the pharaohs.

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In 30 BC Egypt became a province of the Roman Empire and suddenly everything Egyptian was hot stuff. They took hundreds of important Egyptian works of art and moved them to Rome. Today Rome has thirteen important obelisks, Egypt five.

THE BASILICA OF SAN CLEMENTE

BURT WOLF:

Another church of considerable importance to the history of Christianity in Rome is the Basilica of San Clemente.  My guide was Father Paul Lawlor, who was born in Ireland and coordinated the restoration activities of the church.

FATHER PAUL LAWLOR ON CAMERA:

Really to explain this you have to understand that San Clemente lies in a valley between two of the hills of Rome.  On this side you’ve got the Celian Hill, on this side the Appian Hill.  And over the centuries the street level rose.  So it was necessary to fill in the lower buildings in order to build a new structure.  And so the buildings underneath were filled in and preserved.

So now we’re here on the fourth century level.  And this is where the Christians built a basilica sometime at the end of the fourth century.  And we’ve got records of this church going right up to the twelfth century, but between those periods -- the fourth century and the twelfth century -- every century added something to this building.  From the columns that you see, the mosaic floor -- very simple, typical of the sixth century when they’re reusing marble, to the paintings.  A whole series of paintings, particularly from the eleventh century when they’re trying to show the importance of the papacy.  Gregory VII had been exiled, and they’re trying to show that the papacy had its own importance.

And here we’re at the twelfth century level, the twelfth century basilica.  So again the street level is rising, the lower building becomes dark, damp, damaged by war and is filled in.  And this basilica is built in the twelfth century.  And I suppose one of the great works of art of the Middle Ages we’ve got here in the mosaic.  The mosaic which represents the tree of life.  You’ve got the cross at the center, you see it there planted in the ground and this great tree comes out from the base of the cross.  The tree representing the church, the inscription tells us.  And then you’ve got all these little scenes of daily life of women looking after sheep and goats, feeding chickens, men also as shepherds, hunting scenes, everything being involved in this great tree and everything being brought back up to heaven.  So it’s a powerful, powerful mosaic. 

What’s interesting is, is that if you look at the floor, you see on the floor a design which is laid out by the Cosmoti, this great family of marble workers.  They had learned how to cut columns into slices, like cutting up salami, you know?  And laying out this beautiful pattern, and if you look at the pattern it’s like, again, it weaves in and out like a tree stretching right through the church.  Again, it’s a cross-made at the same time as the mosaic, perhaps a reflection of the cross in the mosaic.  But now, by coming in to the church we’re involved, as it were, in the branches of this tree which this time is rooted in the altar.  And the sacrifice of Christ of course on the altar which gave life to this new tree of life which stretches right throughout the church.  It’s a magnificent idea.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: 

You see all the levels of the church in this one room.

FATHER PAUL LAWLOR ON CAMERA: 

That’s right.  Everything is represented from the early Christian world right through to the twelfth century, then the Renaissance and then the Baroque world right up to our own time.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA:  And still being used.

FATHER PAUL LAWLOR ON CAMERA:  And still being used today.

THE SISTINE CHAPEL

BURT WOLF:

In 1508, Pope Julius II entered his private chapel. Walking next to him was Michelangelo, considered to be one of the greatest artists of the time. The Pope pointed to the ceiling, looked at Michelangelo and said, “Paint it.” Michelangelo spent the next four years of his life standing on a scaffold and painting a fresco. He even made sketches of himself at work.

A fresco is produced by putting fresh plaster on a surface and then painting a picture on the plaster. The artist uses paints that are made from colored powder mixed with water. When the water dries out the powder sets into the plaster. The color becomes a permanent part of the wall or in this case the ceiling. It’s the perfect medium for large murals, but it’s a difficult technique. The painter must work fast, completing a section before the plaster is dry and mistakes cannot be corrected by overpainting. Make a mistake and you must start again with fresh plaster.

The fresco on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel is considered to be one of the greatest works of art. It presents events from the Old Testament.

The Popes were good clients for Michelangelo, and Pope Paul III brought him back to paint the west wall of the chapel. He was eighty years old.

Today the Sistine Chapel is the room used by the Sacred College of Cardinals when they meet to elect a new Pope.

BOOKS AND RECORDS

BURT WOLF:

In the early 400s, Pope Innocent I dropped a note to the bishops of Africa.

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The note pointed out that it was divine authority that gave the Papacy the right to approve all religious activities in the Christian world. The Pope began to take on a role that was similar to that of the chief justice of the Supreme Court.

BURT WOLF:

Cases were decided and recorded. They became the basis for a vast system of papal law---laws that ended up having a major impact on Western ideas. We tend to think of courts of appeal and legal precedents as concepts that developed in the secular world. But in fact it was the Papacy that popularized the idea of a court of appeals.

MONSIGNOR WILLIAM A. KERR ON CAMERA:

When nations were developing their codified systems, and they were moving away from the absolute rule of a prince or a king, it was to the Roman laws which had been taken from Rome, adapted to changing civilizations by the Papacy, given new codifications and given to new peoples for their use.  I think probably due process is one of the great contributions the Papacy has made to the life of civilization today.

PRESERVATION AND RESTORATION

BURT WOLF:

On the night of August 10th 1992, a section of the mosaic covering the dome of the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament broke off and fell 400 feet to the floor below. Rainwater had seeped into the ceiling and weakened the glue that held the mosaic chips to the dome. Fortunately, no one was hurt, but a restoration program was needed and it had to begin immediately.

A mosaic is made by taking pieces of colored glass, marble or stone and pasting them onto a surface that has been prepared with glue. The ancient Romans learned the technique from the Greeks and used it to decorate their homes and temples.

By the third century mosaics were being used to present sacred images.

At the time, people were loosing interest in sculpture and the mosaic gradually took over as the most convincing way to picture a religious event.

When the great paintings inside St. Peter’s Basilica began to deteriorate in the 1600s they were recreated in mosaic. But if you didn’t know that and you didn’t look for the tiny stones, you’d think they were paintings.

The restoration program for the dome was undertaken by the Mosaic Studio of the Vatican. Its work dates back to the 1500s and it is considered to be the finest mosaic studio in the world. It also has the largest collection of the stones that are used to produce the works.

The artists have about 30,000 different colors to choose from and there are samples for each color. On the back of each chip is the identification number.

In the next room there are hundreds of bins filled with the tiles that are necessary to make the mosaics. Each number on the samples matches up with the numbers on the bin. Almost all of the tiles where made here in the Vatican mosaic studio. And many are hundreds of years old. 

Some of the tiny chips are stone, some are marble and some are glass. The glass chips are produced in the studio.

Small pieces of glass mixed with chemicals that give it color are fussed together at a temperature of 800 degrees centigrade.

The hot glass is pulled at both ends to produce a filament. A bladed hammer and a wedge of steel are used to cut the filament into the size and shape that the artist wants for a specific spot in the mosaic.

The mosaic on the dome was put in place in 1656 and presents the “The mystery of the Eucharist”.

The only way to work on it was to build a scaffold up to the vault.

Each section of the mosaic that needed repair was copied and coordinated on numbered sheets that were fixed to the vault. When the chips were reattached the bonding glue was made from an ancient recipe that combined marble dust, lime, and flax oil.

The restoration took almost two years and cost hundreds of thousands of dollars.

The funding came from The Knights of Columbus in the United States who were attracted to the project because of its cultural and artistic importance and because they felt it stood as a metaphor for life.

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They pointed out that a mosaic is made by placing one stone next to another stone until we have a masterwork and that life is similar. We place one minute next to the next minute until we are the masterwork of the Divine Artist. 

THE EARLY YEARS

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During the third century, corruption, civil war and a series of plagues spread chaos throughout the Empire. The average citizen lived in a state of constant anxiety. In contrast to the government however, the Church offered a vision of the world that was simple and secure especially its promise of an afterlife. The Church had also developed a reliable infrastructure that continued to offer lifesaving charity to the poor.

BURT WOLF:

Constantine saw the Christian Church as a force for unity that could hold his empire together. His conversion turned the bishops of the Roman Empire into men of power and influence and they wanted that power to be seen by everyone. They began working with Constantine to build some of the great churches of Rome.

But in 324, Constantine packed up and headed east. His plan was to build a new capital for the Roman Empire, which in keeping with his level of modesty he called Constantinople.

The Popes were left with the complex task of building Christian Rome, but within a hundred years they were able to construct dozens of elaborate churches.

Perhaps the most magnificent is Santa Maria Maggiore. In 353, Pope Lieberius had a vision of the Virgin Mary commanding him to build a church dedicated to her on a snow-covered hill. Considering that it almost never snows in Rome and this was the middle of the summer, Lieberius had a hard time understanding the request. However, on August 5th it began to snow and the hill was covered in white.

The Pope got the point and started building a church which stood here for about 200 years until it was replaced by the present basilica.

Inside, there is a gold and silver relic case said to contain a piece of Jesus’ cradle.    The ceiling is made of gold brought from the Americas and donated by Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain. As you may recall, Isabella put up the front money for Columbus.

The activities surrounding the Pope became more formal. Detailed rituals were introduced, feast-days were announced, and music was composed for each occasion. The elaborate activities of the Papacy fascinated the newly converted population of Europe. Kings, churchmen and the devoted, who could afford the trip, came to Rome to be near the great relics of the Church which had been carefully preserved and were elaborately presented. If you wanted to be close to God and request that your sins be forgiven, Rome seemed the right place to make your appeal.

BONIFACE’S BONUS MILES

BURT WOLF:

On the 22nd of April, in the year 1300, Pope Boniface VIII stood on the balcony of the Church of San Giovanni in Laterano and announced the first Jubilee Year. He had gotten the idea from the biblical book of Leviticus which described a jubilee year that took place every fifty years and required that all slaves be freed and all debts paid.

Pope Boniface declared that anyone who came to Rome during the Jubilee Year, confessed their sins and visited St. Peter’s would be pardoned from the temporal punishment that was due as a result of those sins.

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It was like saying to your kid, “You’re forgiven, but you still have to pay the consequences”. Not a free flight but definitely the ultimate bonus miles program. And everybody who could take advantage of the offer came to Rome. During that single year, over a million people visited this city.

BURT WOLF:

The Church intended to mark every hundredth year as a Holy Year. But in 1334, the interval was shortened to 33 years, the length of the life of Christ. In 1464 Pope Paul II cut it down to 25 years. The quarter-century spacing has been in use ever since.

A Holy Year begins on the preceding Christmas Eve when the Pope opens the Holy Door, the Porta Santa of St. Peter’s. Traditionally the Pope would used aver hammer to knock down a temporary wall that was erected in front of the door, after that, the door was opened. But there are also special occasions that call for a Holy Year.  1983 was a Holy Year that marked 1,950 years since the crucifixion and resurrection of Christ.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA

In 1500, the name was changed from Jubilee Year to Holy Year but the offer of forgiveness remained.

BURT WOLF:

The visits enhance the image of the Papacy. People discovered the extraordinary buildings that had been commissioned by the Popes. They saw the art that came into being at the command of the Popes. They witnessed the pageantry that honored the saints. And they heard music that was specifically composed to lift the hearts of the faithful. They went back to their homes throughout Europe with a new awareness of the importance of the Papacy. More than any organization in the history of the world the Papacy has promoted tourism and tourism has promoted tolerance and understanding.

THE CHALLENGE OF THE 20TH CENTURY

BURT WOLF:

During the early decades of the 20th century, the Pope was the infallible voice of the Church, the spiritual leader of hundreds of millions of people throughout the world, and the most powerful force opposing godless behavior. 

He was also almost landless, ignored by most contemporary governments, and despised by the fascists and the communists who were coming to power.  

The first Pope of the 20th century was Giuseppe Sarto. His father was the postman in a small village in Northern Italy and his mother was a seamstress. He was approachable, warm and clearly a Pope of the people. 

He took the name Pius X and in 1910, reduced the age of the First Communion from twelve to seven. The objective was to celebrate the idea of the family, and bring together the community and that is precisely what it did and still does. During the past few years, I have attended First Communions in Mexico City, Chicago and Rome and each time I was aware of family bonds being reestablished and strengthened.

ANNOUNCER:

The pontiff already had given thanks that Rome had been spared the ravages of battle and here he meets some 4,000 fighters who freed the Italian capital from Nazi

tyranny.

BURT WOLF:

The Vatican literally emptied its bank accounts in order to establish programs on behalf of the wounded soldiers and the refugees of war.  The Vatican began to oppose the imperialism of 20th century governments and to promote respect for the cultures that were being overrun.

The Popes began to consecrate bishops from China, Japan, India and Southeast Asia.  At a time when nations were becoming more and more nationalistic, the Papacy was promoting the acceptance of all cultures.

Papal policy during the second half of the 20th century showed a continuing interest in international events. In 1963, Pope John XXIII published a document titled, Pacem in Terris, Peace on Earth. It was addressed not to the bishops of the Church but to “all men of good will”. It supported the right of every individual to practice the religion of his or her choice, both privately and publicly. It championed the role of women in government. It called for improved conditions for workers. And it denounced war in the nuclear age as “utterly irrational”. 

The American theologian John Courtney Murray was the main draftsman for the decree on religious liberty. He felt that it was essential if the Church was to be respected by democratic nations. The centuries old idea that the Jews could be held responsible for the death of Christ was denounced.

JOHN PAUL II

A key supporter of the changes presented in Pope John XXIII’s request for peace on earth was the Archbishop of Krakow who was living under communist domination. Freedom of religion would be a valuable tool in his battle with the communist dictators who with the aid of Russian troops controlled Poland. The Archbishop of Krakow was Karol Wojtyla, the future Pope John Paul II.

John Paul II was the first non-Italian to be elected Pope in almost 500 years. During the Nazi occupation of Poland he had been a student, then a worker in a stone quarry and then a chemical factory.

I went to Poland to visit the Museum of the Archdiocese of Krakow.  It houses a collection of religious art but most important the building contains the actual room in which Pope John Paul II lived before he became Pope.

PROF. ZDZISLAW KLIS ON CAMERA:

Oh it is just a place which looks like in 1952 when Father Wojtyla being a priest and he shared that place with his professor Father Staroweijski.  It was a difficult time after second World War and even you can see the desk by which he worked, his picture as a child, also his family, parents, mother and father, his skis, the first one which he used and the second one more advanced.  Even a collection of his writing.

BURT WOLF:

Do you know what his doctorate was about?

PROF. ZDZISLAW KLIS ON CAMERA:

I think it was about John of Cross, a Spanish Saint, he learned Spanish in those days, to read all those writings in Spanish and the photographs as a young man studying Polish literature in the University.  He was an actor in those days.

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He had a girlfriend and was the was the first Pope in over two hundred years to have lived the life that was similar to the average person. When he decided to become a priest he was violating the anti-religious laws of the communist party and had to begin his studies in secret.

BURT WOLF:

Determined to do whatever he could to defend the people of Poland against the communist dictatorship he visited the country in 1979. He traveled from one end of the nation to the other and actually spoke to one third of the population. Government controlled television producers were instructed never to show the jubilant crowds. The cameras were to be locked on close-ups of the Pope.

His visit to Poland and his moral and financial support of Lech Walesa and the Solidarity movement was a key element in toppling the communist government and bringing democracy to Poland.

The 20th century has challenged the Church to respond to the needs of the modern world. And much of that challenge was met by John Paul II. He took over 90 trips to more than 120 countries, trying to respond to the needs of people all over the world.

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA:

 When he came on to the Balcony of Saint Peter's after his election, and said, be not afraid, open wide the doors, he meant in every country, in every culture. And the Pope has been a pilgrim into all of these places.

Historians are going to look to him and see how the Papacy really changed in a dramatic way under his leadership.  First of all, it is a global Papacy now, in a way that it never was before.

BURT WOLF:

At the most sacred moment of his ordination in Poland a fellow laborer from his days in the Krakow chemical factory called to him by his nickname with a message of encouragement, “Lolek, don’t let anybody get you down.”

As the years passed and I watched the slow progression of the Pope’s illness, I got the feeling that his old pal’s message of support was always with him. John Paul II sent a signal that no matter what happens to the body, the soul survives.

ELECTING THE NEW POPE

BURT WOLF:

When a Pope dies the Cardinals in charge of all Vatican offices are immediately suspended with three exceptions: the Cardinal in charge of the Papal household, the Cardinal judging the most serious cases involving papal law, and the Cardinal who will oversee the burial ceremony in St. Peter’s Basilica.

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The Cardinal in charge of the Pope’s household is responsible for confirming the death. And that was traditionally done by tapping the Pope’s forehead repeatedly with a silver hammer while calling him by his baptismal name. These days however the task has been given over to medical authorities.

BURT WOLF:

The Cardinal in charge of the household also has the task of crushing the Fisherman’s Ring, a gold signet ring once used to seal all Papal documents. A new ring is made for each Pope.

There are nine days of mourning then the Pope is laid to rest below St. Peter’s Basilica.   Popes are buried in triple coffins. The inner container is made of cypress wood, the middle of lead, and the outer of elm.

Between fifteen and twenty days after the announcement of the Pope’s death all the Cardinals of the Church come to Vatican City and assemble in conclave to elect a new Pope. The word “conclave” actually means under lock and key and for centuries that’s what happened. They were locked together until their work was completed.

In the past, accommodations for all the cardinals and their personnel was a serious problem and the conditions were often miserable. These days things are different. In 1996, John Paul II opened the House of St. Martha, a building that was especially designed to house the cardinals and their attendants during a conclave. There are also rooms for medical personnel and the catering staff.

Once the conclave has begun the House of St. Martha and the Sistine Chapel are sealed off from the outside world in the hope that no external pressures will be brought to bear on the proceedings.

ARCHBISHOP JOHN P. FOLEY ON CAMERA:

Every morning they are taken over to the Sistine Chapel and twice a day they meet and there are two votes each time and a vote of two-thirds plus one is needed during the first thirty ballets and if no one is elected after 30 ballets it goes to a majority plus one.  And after the first three days of voting which should be about twelve ballets if nobody has been elected they take a pause for a day of recollection, a day of prayer.

BURT WOLF:

In theory any male Catholic can be elected Pope but since 1389 it has always been a member of the College of Cardinals.

ARCHBISHOP JOHN P. FOLEY ON CAMERA:

They take an oath that everything they do will be secret which is understandable because you don’t want revelations later that would be divisive, would divide the loyalties of people, but each individual holds up his ballet, which he has signed, and he says I swear before God that I am voting for the person whom I believe to be best qualified.  So he puts the vote in a big chalice, a large container, and then those votes are taken; and they are counted first to make sure that there are no more votes than there are Cardinals.

BURT WOLF:

Sounds simple enough, but during the past two thousand years there have been conclaves that have lasted considerably longer than planned.

MONSIGNOR ROBERT F. TRISCO ON CAMERA:

We know in times past some of the Conclaves were very long, and the one that took place beginning in 1268, lasted two years, nine months and I think three days.  That was held at Viterbo, a town in central Italy, where the previous Pope had died, it was the custom then to hold the Conclaves wherever the Pope, previous Pope, had died.  And the townspeople became so impatient that they, walled the Cardinals up and, allowed only a small amount of food to go in, and even took the roof off of the building, they finally came to an agreement.

BURT WOLF:

If a vote does not result in the election of a new Pope, the papers are burned in a stove with a chimney that is visible in St. Peter’s Square. A chemical is added to the fire, which produces a heavy black smoke, which tells the public that the vote was indecisive. If a Pope has been elected the chemical is left out and the smoke is pure white.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA:

Once a new Pope has been elected, the Cardinal Dean stands in front of him, and asks him by what name he wishes to be known.  The man who was elected announces his name as Pope and puts on his new robes.  Three robes, one in small, one in medium and one in large are always held at the ready.

BURT WOLF:

By this time St. Peter’s Square is filled with tens of thousands of people. The Senior Cardinal Deacon steps to the balcony overlooking the square and calls out, “I announce to you a great joy, we have a Pope adding the Pope’s old name and the name that he has chosen as Pope. The Pope comes to the window and gives his blessing to the crowd below. \

WHAT REMAINS

CARL ANDERSON ON CAMERA:

The twenty-first century most likely will be a century of profound religion and religious growth and expectation.  And so inter-religious dialogue, getting to know the faith and values of others around the globe will be tremendously important.  Important for Catholics and Christians but also at the same time important for non-Christians to understand better what has been a vital force in the West for 2,000 years and now is more and more an important animating force in Latin America, in Asia, and in Africa.  BURT WOLF:

The Papacy has been the inspiration behind much of our most moving music.

The stimulus for some the finest art in the world.

The preserver and protector of some of the most important books in western literature.

A primary source of our appellate court system.

The counter force against abusive governments.

The advocate for a more righteous life.

A great and ongoing source of charitable works.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA:

In many ways the history of the Papacy is similar to the history of any large institution---you have your good days and your not so good days. Of course in the case of the Papacy you’re looking at centuries not days. Nevertheless, you can look back over its 2000-year history and see that it is clearly the source of some of our greatest achievements.

Burt Wolf, Vatican City, Rome.

Travels & Traditions: The Shrine and Lourdes, France - #510

BURT WOLF: The ancient village of Lourdes in the southwest corner of France is one of the most important shrines in the Christian world. Set in a valley in the Pyrenees Mountains along the border with Spain it is a sanctuary that has become famous as a place where the sick are healed.

Each year over 6 million people come to Lourdes and they come from all over the world. As a holy site, Lourdes is relatively new. It was recognized by the Church in 1862, but since then thousands of cures have been examined and documented.

Ill people of many different faiths come here in the hope of curing their ailments or assisting in the cures of others.

Most people come here to be in a holy atmosphere and feel close to God, to reconcile different elements and conflicts in their lives, to renew friendships and to find strength.

THE VISION IN WHITE

BURT WOLF: On February 11th 1858, Bernadette Soubirous, her sister and a friend, set out to gather wood for a cooking fire. They had to avoid any place where they might be accused of stealing the wood, so they walked along the local riverbed which was considered to be common property. Bernadette sat down on a sandy area near an outcropping of rocks. At the base was a small grotto. She heard the wind but saw nothing. Then from a corner of the grotto she saw a soft light that surrounded a beautiful young lady in white. The lady smiled at Bernadette and motioned her to come near. Bernadette instinctively reached for her rosary, but was unable to grasp it until the lady produced her own and made the sign of the cross. Nothing was said by Bernadette or the young lady. This was the first of eighteen apparitions of the Virgin Mary that the fourteen-year-old Bernadette would see over the next five months.

At each visit to the grotto, Bernadette was accompanied by a growing number of witnesses. During the tenth apparition over 800 people from the surrounding villages came to the site and on March 3rd the crowd had grown to over 7,000.

The apparitions were bringing all ranks of society together in one place and creating a collective sense of spirituality.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Historically visions had occurred in places that were private without any witnesses. But Bernadette’s experience was completely different. Though she was the only one to see the vision in white, thousands of people saw her during the encounter.

Something about the way she was standing, the sincerity of her tears, the quality of the experience, convinced people that shat she was seeing was true.

BURT WOLF: During Bernadette’s ninth vision at the grotto, the lady in white showed Bernadette a hidden stream that was to become an essential element for the pilgrims traveling to Lourdes. At first, there was only a trickle of muddy water in a place where there had never been any. Today the fountain pours out millions of gallons of water a year. Water that is considered to have the ability to heal the devout.

THE GROTTO

BURT WOLF: The vision also sent Bernadette to the local priests with a request that they come to the grotto in procession and build a chapel. Today the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes is made up of the Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary, the Crypt, the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, the Basilica of Saint Pius X, the church of St. Bernadette and the Grotto.

Each morning a Mass is held at the Grotto.

Behind the altar is a box where you can leave your written prayer or request. Pilgrims touch the rock as they pass through the grotto. It’s a sign of their belief that only God is the rock on which they can build their lives. The white marble statue of the Virgin Mary was made in 1864 and set in the same place where Bernadette first saw the vision. The precise spot where Bernadette was standing when she saw the vision is marked by a plaque in the pavement.

At the back of the Grotto is the spring that was discovered by Bernadette. Its water is piped to the taps to the left of the Grotto. To drink some of the water or take some home is a sign of your faith in the power of God. Pilgrims wash their faces and ask God to purify their hearts.

Just to the side of the taps is an area where candles are sold. The candles remind pilgrims that at one point Bernadette came to meet the vision with a lighted candle in her hand and each year millions of pilgrims repeat Bernadette’s activities. From time to time there is a lack of space and you will not be able to immediately offer your lighted candle. “Candlemen” may invite you to hold your lighted candle while you make your prayer, then extinguish it and place it into a box near the grotto. During the winter months, when there are fewer pilgrims, these candles will be relit and your prayer prolonged during your absence. The candle is also a reminder that Jesus once described himself as, “The light of the world.”

THE CHURCHES

BURT WOLF: The sanctuary of the basilica was built directly over the place where Bernadette saw the vision. It was opened in 1871. Above the entrance is the medallion of Pius IX, who was the Pope during the years that Bernadette lived in Lourdes. His proclamation that the Virgin Mary was “conceived without original sin” played an important role in the early acceptance of Bernadette’s story. The stained glass windows in the side chapels illustrate the history of Our Lady of Lourdes. The windows above the nave illustrate the biblical history of Eve and Mary.

The Crypt under the basilica was blessed on the day of Pentecost in 1866. That was the day that official pilgrimages to Lourdes got started. It houses the relics of St. Bernadette.

The Rosary Basilica was built at the beginning of the 20th century. It commemorates St. Dominic who is credited with introducing the Rosary. The church has 15 small chapels decorated with mosaics that follow the story of the Rosary. There is also a series of mosaics that present the most important people in the story of Bernadette’s apparitions.

TOURING THE SHRINE

BURT WOLF: Facing the upper basilica is the entrance to the way of the Cross which winds up the hill and consists of 15 stations. Each station represents an event that took place over 2,000 years ago as Christ made his journey up to Calvary. The first station marks the moment that Jesus was condemned to death. The last station celebrates his resurrection from the dead. As you walk around the shrine you will see young people and adults dressed in white uniforms. They have given a week or two of their time to help pilgrims who have come to Lourdes.

Each day at 5 o’clock in the afternoon, from Easter through All Saints Day, which is November 1st, there is a Eucharistic procession and a blessing of the sick. The procession moves around the Esplanade and the Blessed Sacrament is presented to the sick in front of the Rosary Basilica. The celebration concludes with a hymn and a blessing.

Every day from Easter through November 1st there is also a torch light procession. People meet at the Grotto at 8:45 with candles and walk through the darkness of the night singing the Ave Maria. 

JOHN PAUL II IN LOURDES

BURT WOLF: During the summer of 2004, Pope John Paul II was one of the pilgrims visiting Lourdes.

WHY LOURDES

BURT WOLF: For thousands of years the inhabitants of the area were mountain people isolated from their neighbors and living in close touch with nature and the supernatural world.

Many people believed that the Virgin Mary chose to appear to Bernadette because she represented a world that was pure -- unspoiled by a desire for material objects and the secularism of the government. The fact that she lived in the mountains of the Pyrenees only enhanced her story.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: The town was right next to the roads used by pilgrims to get to Santiago de Compostela in Spain and since the middle ages the locals were well aware of the Virgin Mary and her special relationship to miracles. The spiritual world was very much part of their life and there had been a long tradition of specific trees, bushes and rivers being able to intercede with the Christian Saints.

BURT WOLF: That Bernadette was walking along the bank of a river when she discovered the grotto and was shown the secret of a spring underlined the ancient relationship of water, the supernatural and the rite of baptism.

THE VISION VS THE REPUBLIC

BURT WOLF: The French Revolution had stripped the Church of much of its wealth and power and the French nation itself was seen as a center of anti-religious sentiment. The 19th century was considered to be a time when secular beliefs, science and logic tried to reject the influence of religion. 

But that was not the case in the small villages of the Pyrenees Mountains. Even though the area was part of France it had little to do with the central government in Paris and was always distrustful and in conflict with national policy.

For centuries there had been sightings of the Virgin Mary along the mountain roads. She had become central to the religious activities of the villagers. 

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: On March 25th Bernadette went to the grotto and asked the vision to identify herself. The girl in white said, “I am the Immaculate Conception.” 

And that was quite astonishing. The idea of the Immaculate Conception as a basic part of the Catholic faith was quite new and not something that Bernadette would have known about. For the vision to identify herself as “the Immaculate Conception” was astonishing.

BURT WOLF: The vision of Lourdes united the simple beliefs of a rural Catholic community with the words of the Pope. It set Lourdes apart from every other site in the world that honored the Virgin Mary. Lourdes became a great source of comfort to a church that was under siege.

Young girls and women were the first worshipers at Lourdes and from the very beginning they were valued for their contributions. In addition to everything else, Lourdes became important for the role it offered women.

COMMUNITY

BURT WOLF: Pilgrimages were organized and became an important way for French Catholics to show their allegiance to the church and their own importance within the nation. They developed a sense that they belonged to a special group that was different from all other groups. They have a sense of camaraderie, of group unity. Everyone is equal and all have been marked by the sacred ground.

At Lourdes people have a sense of group no matter where they came from. You can feel it during the great singing processions that take place by torchlight. You can feel it in the groups that are at the grotto. But you can also see it in the small cafes along the streets of the town. The people sitting at the tables drinking coffee or sipping beer evidence that same sense of “special group”. Something of Bernadette is everywhere and colors the entire atmosphere of the area. Her cheerful simplicity, total commitment and basic honesty have become part of the community.

EX-VOTOS

BURT WOLF: The walls of the three churches at Lourdes are covered with plaques which are expressions of thanks to Our Lady of Lourdes for her intercession -- they are called Ex-voto meaning “according to the vow or promise”. It’s the name given to some tangible object that is left by a pilgrim at a holy site. Ex-votos which are also called votives usually fall into one of three categories.

The first is a gift given in anticipation of some favor that is expected to be received in the future. It can be the simple gift of a small donation and the lighting of a votive candle or it can be a jewel worth thousands of dollars.

The second is to thank the divine power for something that has been received in the past. Once again it can be simple and inexpensive or extremely valuable and elaborate. Lech Walesa, the first president of Poland after it was freed of Soviet domination, left his 1983 Nobel Prize medal at Our Lady of Czestochowa in the Jasna Gora Monastery near Krakow.

The third is to literally advertise the power of the site. These ex-votos are prominently displayed as evidence of the interventions. At the shrine of Guadalupe near Mexico City there are hundreds of painted tin plaques that illustrate the stories of the miracles that took place in relation to the shrine.

When it comes to ex-votos, Lourdes is probably the most famous holy site in the western world. There are thousands of ex-votos at Lourdes and each is there to mark a successful intervention on behalf of a pilgrim.

MEDICAL MIRACLES

BURT WOLF: In 1883, the Medical Bureau of Lourdes was established. The objective was to use modern medical techniques to distinguish between real cures and false claims. The Bureau investigates each report in order to establish the true facts. It records the details of all cures. The doctors here have no interest in confirming the success of the supernatural.

But it is clear that people have been recovering from their illnesses without medical attention. Since 1858, there have been over 5,000 documented healings and 66 cures that have been recognized as miracles.

Dr. Patrick Theiller is the head of the medical bureau and was in charge of the investigation concerning Jean-Pierre Bely.

DR. PATRICK THEILLER ON CAMERA: Bely was a nurse at a major French hospital. In 1972 he began to suffer the symptoms of multiple sclerosis. By 1987 he was bedridden and considered by his doctors to be an invalid. During a visit to Lourdes he received the Sacrament of the Sick. The next day during the Mass in the Rosary Square he was overcome with a sense of freedom and peace that he had never felt before. That same day he began to sit up for the first time in years. That night he began walking. When he returned home his doctors looked at him and could find no signs of his previous illness. A few months later, the medical bureau at Lourdes began to study his case and continued its investigation for over seven years. His cure has remained for over 20 years. The church recognized the cure as the 66th miracle to take place at Lourdes. 

BELIEF IN RECOVERY

BURT WOLF: Scientists are now fully aware of the fact that our brains have the ability to control the chemistry of our bodies and these changes can be essential for a person’s well being and a patient’s recovery.

The central element here is that if you believe that you are going to recover then the chances of recovery are considerably greater. Scientists have proven this with the use of medicines and placebos. They have also shown that your mind can exercise its power over your body without some tangible tool like medicine. 

But what if the belief in your recovery is not based on a pill or your relationship to a doctor but on your belief in the power of God?

What scientists have found is that the same chemical changes that are induced by your belief in your doctor or your medicine, are virtually the same chemical changes that can be produced by your belief in the power of God acting within you in answer to your prayers.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: You can take a look at the history of the people who have been cured at Lourdes and the millions of visitors who come here each year and think -- miracles produce faith, but in fact it is just the opposite -- faith produces miracles. For TRAVELS & TRADITIONS, I’m Burt Wolf.

Travels & Traditions: Krakow, Poland - #509

BURT WOLF: Krakow is the third largest city in Poland with a population of 750,000. And for hundreds of years it has been one of the great cultural centers of Eastern Europe.

Krakow is a compact city with almost all of its major attractions within easy walking distance of each other. And the place to start walking is the Main Market Square. It’s one of the largest medieval squares in Europe. For centuries it was at the center of the commercial routes used by traders working between northern and southern Europe. The square has been the city’s commercial and cultural center for almost a thousand years. Today it’s lined with dozens of shops, flower stalls, restaurants and cafes.

The impressive houses and palaces that surround the square were once owned by Krakow’s wealthiest merchants and royal families.

The palace at number 35 is now the Museum of the City of Krakow and houses a collection of paintings and decorative arts that present the city’s cultural history.

Three of the buildings on the square have been turned into Wierzynek the city’s most historic restaurant.

In the center of the market square is the Cloth Hall. The original building was put up in the 1200s as a covered market where textiles were sold. It was replaced by the present structure during the 1500s. The building is still filled with shops only these days they sell folk art, leatherwork, amber and silver jewelry.

The arcades on the sides of the building are home to a number of cafes including the Noworolski with its slightly faded turn of the century elegance and matching clientele.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA AT A CAFÉ: Oh my goodness.

BURT WOLF: Every hour, on the hour, a trumpeter opens a small window in the nearby tower of St. Mary’s Church and plays a short tune.

After a few notes there is a pause, then the music continues.

The tradition commemorates a time when a watchman began blowing his trumpet to warn the tower that the Tartars were attacking. As he started to send the signal he was hit by an arrow. It took a few moments to find a replacement and continue the alarm. Today’s brief pause is a reminder of that event.

WAWEL HILL

BURT WOLF: When prehistoric tribes were looking for a nice place to live they always preferred a spot that was easy to defend, higher than the surrounding area and near a source of fresh water -- Wawel Hill overlooking the Vistula River is a perfect example and people have been living on this hill for over 10,000 years.

For centuries Wawel Hill was the spiritual and intellectual center of Polish culture. The Wawel Cathedral has been here since the year 1,000. The chapel also contains the tomb of King Kazimerz Jagiello, one of the great heroes of Polish history.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: In 1973, a group of sixteen scholars opened the tomb to investigate its contents. Within a short time all sixteen died. The word around town was that the King had put a curse on them for disturbing his sleep.

BURT WOLF: At the center of the Cathedral is the shrine of St. Stanislaus, who was the bishop of Krakow in the 11th century.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Boleslaw the Bold, was the king at the time, and it appeared that he abducted another man’s wife and smuggled her into the castle. Well, this upset the Bishop so much that he decided to punish the king by stopping the mass every time the king came into the cathedral.

BURT WOLF: The king then decided to punish the bishop by chopping him up into small pieces. Then the bishop decided to punish the king by becoming Saint Stanislaus the patron saint of Poland.

The Bishop’s tomb is the nations alter -- the place where the coronation ceremonies for Polish kings have taken place for centuries. 

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: At the top of the cathedral’s tower is the Zygmunt Bell. They say if you are holding the clapper of the bell you are holding the bell’s heart and at that moment all issues in connection of your own heart will be resolved with the possible exception of your cholesterol level.

BURT WOLF: Next to the Cathedral is the Wawel Castle, which was built in the early 1500s. It was the time of the Italian Renaissance and what was going on in Florence was being felt in Krakow. It was Krakow’s Golden Age. The architects who designed most of Wawel Castle came from Italy and they used Italian masons and sculptors to execute their designs. You can feel the Italian style throughout the building.

The Royal Apartments contain an unusual collection of 16th century tapestries that were produced by the finest artists in Antwerp and Brussels. One group presents the story of Noah and his arc. At the time tapestries were used to cover the walls of every important room and were continually changed in accordance with the season and important events. 

The Queen at the time came from Italy and she influenced the court in Krakow in many ways -- the architecture, the art, the music, the clothing; even the food showed her Italian preferences.

She introduced the court kitchen to potatoes and tomatoes which had recently been brought to northern Italy from the New World by Columbus. She also showed her palace cooks how to prepare cabbage. All three ingredients, potatoes, tomatoes and cabbage are now central to Polish cooking. 

The castle also houses a collection of Turkish tents which were captured when Polish troops broke the Turkish siege of Vienna in 1683.

Most students of history tend to think of the siege of Vienna as a military and political event, but for me it’s greatest significance was as a gastronomic occasion.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: After the Polish Army had saved Vienna, a Viennese baker who had warned of the attack was given the right to bake something to commemorate the event and to receive a royalty on each one he sold. He decided to make a roll in the shape of a crescent like the crescent on the Turkish flag to show that the Viennese could devour the Turks at any time. And that is how the croissant was born.

ARCHITECTURE

BURT WOLF: Starting in the 11th century, Krakow became interested in the quality of its architecture, and over the centuries it has been able to preserve examples from each of the most important periods. As a result, Krakow offers an outdoor textbook for European architectural history.

An excellent example of the Romanesque style is the tiny St. Adalbert’s Church in the center of the Market Square. It was built in the 1100s. Romanesque buildings are massive with few windows. Semicircular arches are used for doors and arcades. Rectangular spaces are often topped with a half cylinder called a barreled vault. Poor old St. Adalbert’s is sinking. You can see the original front door which is about three yards below the present street level. 

The next architectural style to evolve is known as the Gothic. Krakow’s St. Katherine’s Church is a good example. The Gothic style was popular from the middle of the 1100s to the end of the 1500s. The name Gothic was introduced by a group of Italian writers who used it as an insult. Barbarian Gothic tribes had destroyed the beauty of ancient Rome, and they felt this new style was destroying it all over again -- so they called it Gothic.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: One of the biggest problems facing medieval stone workers was how to support heavy ceilings over wide spaces. The earlier Romanesque solution had been to use massive amounts of stone but that created a great deal of weight and pressure pushing down and out and often caused the buildings to collapse.

BURT WOLF: Krakow’s St. Katherine’s Church is an example of how Gothic architects solved the problem by using ribbed vaults that supported a ceiling of thin stone panels. The ribbing reduced the weight of the ceiling. The round arches of the barrel vault were replaced by the pointed Gothic arches that did a better job of distributing the weight. The arches also allowed them to introduce larger windows. In addition, they developed the flying buttress -- a series of half-arches that stood outside and leaned against the upper exterior of the building and carried the weight of the ceiling. Gothic masons used this technique to build larger and taller churches than ever before.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Since the Golden Age of Krakow and the Italian Renaissance took place at the same time and there were lots of Italian architects working in Krakow you’d think the city would be filled with Renaissance churches but in fact there is not a single Renaissance church in Krakow. The reason is that the Gothic style was so popular and they built so many Gothic churches that they didn’t need a new church for over 200 years.

BURT WOLF: Isaac’s Synagogue however is a fine example of Renaissance architecture. The objective of Renaissance architecture was to re-create the ancient classic culture of Rome and to illustrate harmony and balance in the design of the building -- proportion was everything. 

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: The legend of Isaac tells of a poor man who dreamed of a great treasure hidden somewhere in Poland. He went searching for that treasure unsuccessfully. When he got home he discovered that all along the treasure had been hidden behind his oven. And he used part of the treasure to pay for this synagogue.

BURT WOLF: The next architectural style was the Baroque. It was the Catholic Church’s response to the Protestant Reformation. The objective of Baroque architecture was to build a church so elaborate and so ornate that it overwhelmed the observer and made it clear that this was where God really belonged. For a Baroque architect more was never enough.

After the Baroque came the Neo-Classic. It was the architecture of the Age of Reason. A good example of the Neo-classic in Krakow is the Slowackiego Theater -- reminiscent of the opera houses of Paris and Vienna. Neo-Classic looks back to the forms of ancient Greece and Rome. Even the curtain is a major work of art.

The building opened in 1893 and was the first building in Krakow to have electric lights. While I was in Krakow I saw a performance of Aida here that was staged in a contemporary setting.

MUSEUMS

BURT WOLF: There are over two and a half million works of art in Krakow and most of them can be seen in the city’s public museums.

In the center of the main square is Krakow’s National Museum which houses a collection of paintings and sculptures by 19th century Polish artists. At the time of its construction in 1883, Poland had been divided between Russia, Austria and Prussia. The museum became a site for the preservation of Poland’s national heritage. There are a number of huge historical paintings that were used to illustrate important moments in Polish history. Their size was key to impressing the viewers with the significance of the events.

A small but interesting museum belongs to the Archdiocese of Krakow. It houses a collection of religious art including some of the oldest surviving Polish painting. The building also contains the actual room in which Pope John Paul II lived before he became Pope.

PROF. ZDZISLAW KLIS ON CAMERA: Oh it is just a place which looks like in 1952 when Father Wojtyla was an ordinary priest in our Diocese. And he shared that place with his professor Father Staroweijski. He wrote his doctorate here, small place, with desk, with some kinds of wardrobes, a collection of pottery and the pictures as a child and two different skis.

BURT WOLF: Was he a good skier?

PROF. ZDZISLAW KLIS ON CAMERA: I think so. I’ve never experienced.

THE ANCIENT TRADE ROUTE

BURT WOLF: Krakow’s main commercial street is Florianska, which was originally part of the trade route between the Baltic Sea and the Black Sea. As early European trade routes developed, Krakow found itself situated at a key point, and for hundreds of years it maintained substantial commercial contact with the ancient Roman Empire. One of the commodities traded at the time was amber. Amber was thought to bring its wearer good luck, youth and longevity -- it is Poland’s national stone.

In medieval times each part of the town belonged to a different craft guild and its members were responsible for maintaining the defensive walls and gates in their neighborhood.

The Florianska Gate is the longest section of ancient city wall still standing. During the 1800s, most of the great cities of Europe pulled down their ancient walls and gates to make room for commercial development.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: But even then, there were people who were opposed to the destruction of historical buildings. The lead player at the time was a professor at the University. But when his logical approach failed he came up with a rather unique bit of reasoning. He said that if the walls were taken down the wind from the north would blow through the city with such force that respectable women of delicate breeding would have their skirts blown up subjecting them to the most immodest of circumstances.

Walls are still up.

WHAT’S COOKING

BURT WOLF: The people of Krakow are serious about eating and drinking, and having freed themselves from the perpetual gastronomic boredom that was imposed on the city by communism, they have returned to their culinary roots.

Krakow’s favorite street food is obwarzanki, a ring shaped roll sprinkled with poppy seeds. They also do mini bagels on a strip.

Krakow has a great love of cafes and coffee houses. My favorite was Camelot, which has an eat-in window. They are well known for their typical Polish cheesecake and apple cake.

And everyone in Poland seems to appreciate Piszinger, a half dozen or so layers of wafer with chocolate filling. It’s Poland’s gourmet answer to the KitKat.

Hawelka was established in 1876 as a shop dealing in high quality foods. Eventually it added a restaurant that specialized in traditional Polish dishes. A few examples: Bigos is a hunter’s stew, often considered the national dish of Poland -- game, smoked sausage, cabbage and sauerkraut.

Pierogi are boiled dumplings that come with dozens of different fillings from potatoes to cherries.

Krakow’s Old Town is filled with bars that offer a wide selection of the national drink which is vodka. Szara on the Main Market Square is a small charming restaurant with a perfect bar for tasting vodka.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: The flavored vodkas should be served at room temperature -- chilling reduces their flavor. They also have a wonderful local drink called the flagship.

BURT WOLF: It’s made by slowly pouring vodka over thick pomegranate juice. It’s drunk as a quick shot. And the juice is so intense that it is the only flavor you sense.

JEWISH CULTURE

BURT WOLF: The first mention of Krakow in writing appears in the diary of a Jewish trader from Cordoba Spain who came to Poland in 965 to buy salt, copper and silver. And there has been a relationship between Krakow and the Jews ever since. The old Jewish section of the city is called Kazimierz and was founded in the 14th century by King Kazimierz the Great.

The local graveyard is one of the oldest in Europe. Many of the tombs are marked with symbols that tell us something about the person buried below. Hands raised in prayer designate the grave of a member of a rabbinical family. Bowls and jugs are the symbols for people who worked in the synagogues. Snakes for doctors. A broken rose for those cut off too early. The small stones placed on top of the headstones signify that a visitor has come by and the departed is being remembered.

Part of the wall enclosing the graveyard is made of fragments of old headstones that had been crushed by the Nazis during the Second World War. Before the Second World War over 70,000 Jews loved in Krakow, now there are less than 100.

In the center of the district is the Galicia Jewish Museum. Galicia was the name given to a region of Eastern Europe that at different times was made up of different parts of Austria, Poland, Russia and Ukraine. But it was always a homeland for Eastern European Jews. The museum houses a collection of photographs by Chris Schwartz, an Englishman who founded the museum.

CHRIS SCHWARTZ ON CAMERA: This picture actually opens the exhibition. This picture was at Plaszow which was the site of the former slave labor camp. It was built on the site of two Jewish cemeteries. You’ll be familiar with the name Plaszow because it was featured in Spielberg’s film Schindler’s List. If you go there now you’ll see only one stone left out of the hundreds that were here before. This stone remains. It’s a symbol of the random chance of survival.

There’s an incredible story about this photograph here. I was photographing in a place called (Starry Jarof) and this Polish fellow comes to me and says that his father-in-law had just died. Just after the war he had taken these tombstones from the Jewish Cemetery and had used them to pave the entrance to his house. Well it’s interesting he was then saying, “Well what do I do with them?” I said, “Look, there’s only one thing to do. Take them back to the Jewish Cemetery and when you are there say a good Catholic prayer and everything will be ok.”

This is the Synagogue at Wiecbork. At on time Weicbork had a community of 2,000 Jews. Today there aren’t any. This Synagogue during the Second World War was used as a stable by the Nazis and it’s been renovated since then. As you can see it’s completely beautiful. A remarkable testament to the Jewish culture that existed here.

This last picture I’m showing you maybe something of a surprise to see in an exhibition about Kazimierz Jews. It’s actually taken in a Catholic Cemetery. You can see all the crosses. It’s the tombstone of a woman called Maria Dzik who died in 1976. During the Second World War she took in a young Jewish girl. At the risk of her own life, saved this young girl’s life. Her name is Basia. Then when Dzik died, Basia put this little monument next to the cross. And here you’ve got the menorah. See you’ve got the two great symbols the menorah and the cross side by side. And it’s nice to finish on a really positive note.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Catholics saving Jews.

CHRIS SCHWARTZ ON CAMERA: It’s wonderful

BURT WOLF: Almost every night, the restaurants of Kazimierz, offer concerts of Jewish music.

And every summer an extraordinary concert takes place in the streets. Experts on Jewish music come from all over the world attend. It is a festival that attracts an audience of over 10,000 people. It is a concert that celebrates life and the history of the Jews of Krakow who have been part of city’s history for centuries.

From Krakow, Poland, for TRAVELS & TRADITIONS, I’m Burt Wolf.

Travels & Traditions: Southwestern France - #508

BURT WOLF: For hundreds of years the city of Toulouse was the center of a loose empire in Southwestern France with the Counts of Toulouse having almost as much power and status as the King of France. Then they used that wealth and power to build a city that showed their importance.

Because red clay and sand were the easily available building materials, Toulouse ended up with a very distinct architecture. It is often called “the rose-colored city.” But for a brief time during the 15th century it owed its reputation to the color blue.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: For centuries blue was a color to be avoided. The ancient Romans associated it with the Barbarians who colored their bodies blue before they went into battle. Even Julius Caesar was terrified of it. He thought of it in connection with hell and death. But during the 1400s things began to change.

BURT WOLF: Blue began to show up in the stained glass windows of important churches. Statues of the Virgin Mary that had usually been in red started coming in blue. Kings and nobles decided it made them look good. After all, the nobles thought of themselves as blue bloods, the least they could do was reflect that in their clothing and surroundings.

The way to get the best blue dye was to extract it from the pastel plant. Toulouse became the center of the pastel trade and home to a group of families who were just dyeing to get rich.

And they used their wealth, which came from blue, to buy things pink. Toulouse has over 30 magnificent pink mansions that were built by the families that controlled the pastel business.

Julbert Castlegrande is an authority on the history and culture of Toulouse and heguided me through the city. 

JULBERT CASTLEGRANDE ON CAMERA: Pierre Dessiar was this very rich merchant of woad and banker and businessman. And this man built a large house between 1555 and 1565. He made this house famous because of the stone, because of the decorations, the columns in Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian style. And then he built this high tower to show off his social position.

BURT WOLF: But it was a short-lived prosperity; a series of religious wars devastated the region. And the introduction of competitive dying products like indigo didn’t help either. Toulouse is also the home of the Basilque St. Sernin, which is the largest and most famous Romanesque church in Europe. It is constructed on the burial site of the first bishop of Toulouse, who was martyred in the year 250 by the Romans for his Christian beliefs.

The original church was built in the 400s to protect the relics of the saint. These days the relics are kept below the church in an area known as the crypt. 

During the middle ages, holy relics, the bones or possessions of a saint, were considered to have magical powers and could be counted on to attract pilgrims to a site. They were kept in special containers that were made of gold and silver and encrusted with precious jewels. That one contains one of the thorns from the crown of thorns worn by Christ.

St. Sernin was designed to hold hundreds of pilgrims who were on their way to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.

Another example of the extraordinary church architecture in Toulouse is the Jacobins Church.

JULBERT CASTLEGRANDE ON CAMERA: Well we are in the monastery of the Jacobins. And this is the Dominican monastery built in the 13th and 14th century. And it was made for the preachers to speak against the heretics against the Cathars. And what’s very special about this church is the way it’s built. It’s one naïve. It doesn’t have the plaintive across. It’s a succession of seven columns who divide the church in two pieces. So one part was for the monks one part was for the people.

The windows are new but we kept two rows of windows from the 14th century. One red, one blue. The original were broken in the 19th century. So we put warm colors on the south sections to help the light of the sun to come in to enlighten the building. And then cold colors on the north side. The red and the yellow were for the parts of the sun. So that it gave the people the impression that heaven would be like the light in this church. BASTIDES

BURT WOLF: At the beginning of the 13th century, the king of France decided to extend his control into what is now the Southwest corner of France. When his troops arrived, they were confronted by a local population that lived in small villages and farmed the surrounding land. Some of the villages were under the control of a local member of the nobility. Some were under the control of a monastery or other form of religious community. But most of the population was made up of freemen, who accepted the authority of a local lord in exchange for protection.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: The king’s men soon realized that taking control of the area by force was beyond their capability so they came up with plan B, and what a great plan it was too. They disguised themselves as real estate developers and built new towns right next to the old towns. Ah, but they were not just new towns, they were new and improved.

BURT WOLF: The objective was to get the freemen to move from the old towns to the new towns and become loyal subjects of the king of France -- loyal subjects who paid their taxes directly to the king instead of the local nobility. The new towns were built on top of hills and called bastides.

This is Cordes, it was the first bastide. It went up in 1222 and it was a financial planner’s dream come true. Bastides was developed according to a specific grid. The streets were straight. They connected to each other at right angles. A commercial square was placed at the center of the grid. Everything was carefully marked off. You could look at the town plan and know precisely its potential income. The entire economic life of the community was enclosed in a financial framework. The owners got the most income from the available space. It was an early example of the Donald Trump School of development.

Of course, the king’s real estate men had the same problems as the Donald -- now that I built it, how do I fill it, and what kind of tenants do I want? Well in those days you didn’t want anyone from the upper classes because they might refuse to pay their taxes. Even then getting the rich to pay taxes was a problem. And you didn’t want any peasants because they were already working your land or the land of some other Count who counted. You recruited the tradesmen and craftsmen and shopkeepers who were free to move about.

As time passed, the uniformity of the bastides gave way. Shopkeepers put up arcades to keep the customers dry so they could shop on rainy days. People who made lots of money built bigger and more elaborate houses. Churches were built. And once you had something of value you felt the need to protect it, so walled ramparts were built around the bastides. Gates were put up so you could decide who should be allowed in and who shouldn’t.

BURT WOLF: There are dozens of bastides in the region where you can stop in and see what life was like in the bad old days.

THE CANAL DU MIDI

BURT WOLF: The Southwest of France sits between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. In theory the region should conduct its commerce and cultural activities in both directions. But for centuries that was not the case.

It costs about ten times as much to move goods over land as it does to move them by water. Unfortunately, all the rivers in this area flow to the west to the Atlantic. And they flow through the city of Bordeaux which is the arch rival to the city of Toulouse.

This was too much for the people of Toulouse, especially for Pierre Paul de Riquet. Riquet was an engineer and astute businessman. In the middle of the 1600s he convinced the chief financial officer to Louis XIV to approve and help finance a canal that would run through the center of the region and connect the Mediterranean to the Atlantic.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: It was an old idea. The ancient Romans had considered it and given it a pass -- much too difficult. But for Riquet it was his life, his dream, the ditch into which he tossed all of his money. He did not understand the word “no” and it appears that was only one of hundreds of words he did not understand. He kept his dream and he kept digging.

BURT WOLF: It took 12,000 workers, the dowries that Riquet had put aside for his daughters and 14 years to build the 150-mile long canal. When it opened it gave an immediate commercial boost to the area and continued to do so until the early 20th century.

These days a considerable amount of the traffic on the canal is made up of tourists who rent boats and motor along the canal for a few days.

You can also use the side paths along the canal for biking or walking. Either way you will pass through some of the most beautiful scenery in France.

CARCASSONNE

BURT WOLF: The Southwest of France is dotted with hill towns but the most famous is Carcassonne. The hill on which it was built has been occupied since the 5th century BC, which makes it one of the oldest continually occupied cities in Europe. By the 12th century AD it was one of the great power centers. Today it is the finest example of medieval fortifications in Europe.

For over two thousand years military types have just loved this place. The original defensive structures were put up here by ancient Roman soldiers. When Rome fell in the 400s the city was taken over by the warlords of the Visigoths. About 300 years later, Moslem troops came over from Spain and took control. For a while the local counts were in charge. In the 1200s, the King of France extended his power into this area and his forces settled in. And when the Germans occupied France during The Second World War, Nazi troops turned the place into their headquarters.

In the center of Carcassonne is the Basilique St. Nazaire. The original part of the Basilica was built in the Roman style, but when the king of France took control in the 1200’s he added a Gothic section. Just down the street from the Basilica is the Chateau Comtal, a castle that displays just about every military defense that was available at the time. You’ve got your basic watchtowers so you can watch what’s going on outside the walls. Those openings in the floor were a nice touch. In many movies that are set in ancient castles there is a scene where the guys in the castle pour boiling oil through those openings and onto the attackers below. Basically you turned your enemies into French fries.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Never happened in real life -- only in the movies. Oil was much too valuable they used it for lighting and cooking and as a medication they would have never have thrown it on the attackers. What came down from above were big rocks. 

BURT WOLF: Today, the inner city has been restored. There are restaurants, bakeries, food shops, hotels and souvenir stands. They even have a traffic light.

ALBI

BURT WOLF: Albi is the ancestral home of Henri Toulouse-Lautrec, one of the greatest artists of the 19th century. When he died his parents donated the contents of his studio and set up the Musee Toulouse- Lautrec, which has the world’s finest collection of his work.

CHRISTIAN RIVIÈRE ON CAMERA: Toulouse-Lautrec was born in Albi in November 24, 1864, and he was from a very very wealthy family. His father was a Count, Alphonse Toulouse –Lautrec, and his mother was the Countess Adèle-Zoé-Marie-Marquette. And the problem was his parents were first cousins.

BURT WOLF: When Lautrec was 13 years old, an accident broke his left thighbone. A year later, a second accident fractured his right thighbone. His legs atrophied and stopped growing. Walking was difficult and he began to spend his lonely days drawing. 

CHRISTIAN RIVIÈRE ON CAMERA: This is what he did he was just under 16 years old. He was a little bit talented I think. And you can see that he was handicapped. Because the proportions between the soldier and the horse are wrong. The horse’s legs are taller than the soldier. And that’s proving that Lautrec was laying down on the floor. And his vision was flawed. 

BURT WOLF: He studied with a number of traditional teachers but in the end was happier on his own and moved to the bohemian district of Paris where he started drawing the popular entertainers of the time. Lautrec wanted to capture the effect of movement. He felt free to draw figures that were anatomically incorrect, out of proper perspective and unstable in their environment. In doing so he was able to capture the intense rhythm and energy of their bodies. He had an amazing ability to capture the true nature of a subject in just a few brief strokes. 

CHRISTIAN RIVIÈRE ON CAMERA: In Paris there was a lot of cabaret all over Montmartre. One of them, Moulin Rouge decided to organize on a new show – Cancan. To promote the new show they would need a poster. And Toulouse-Lautrec would be the designer of the new poster. He would imagine something very very new. For that he would be inspired by the Japanese prints and he saw the Japanese would use few colors and movement and never any text. Lautrec for that poster would use all the combinations: few text, movement, and few colors. This is the first and the original poster done in 1892. And with the poster it would be officially in the world the creator of the modern poster.

BURT WOLF: Albi is also home of the Sainte Cecile Cathedral one of the most magnificent churches in Europe. Construction started in 1282 with the intension of building a structure that would work for defense as well as devotion. At the time very few people could read. Their vision of the spiritual world came from architecture, paintings, and sculpture. Everything about the cathedral was designed to proclaim the superior grandeur of god. The beauty and the detail throughout the church were meant to show the triumph of the spirit over matter.

The great choir contrasts the terrible God of the Old Testament with the gentle God revealed by Christ. 

The huge painting of the Last Judgment illustrates the gospel of St. Matthew. “When the Son of Man cometh in his glory and the Angels with him.” The vaulted ceiling is an enormous fresco. The largest fresco in the world. Executed in 1509 by

Italian painters from Bologna, it has never been retouched. Christ in his glory, the triumphant virgin, saints joyous over their election.

WHAT’S COOKING

BURT WOLF: While I was in Toulouse I stayed at the Crown Plaza Hotel. It’s been awarded four stars and is right in the center of town -- the most historic part of the city.

The Crown Plaza bar has an excellent selection of Armagnac, which is a type of brandy. It’s a specialty of the Southwestern France. By definition brandy is an alcoholic beverage distilled from fruit. Armagnac is distilled from grapes.

In 1514 King Louis XII issued the first license for the production of brandy, and since then the wine country of France has been a center for its production. The most famous brandy is probably Cognac, which is produced just up the road, but Armagnac is different and appears to retain more of the flavor of the wine.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: When you look at the label of a distilled spirit you usually find a line that has the world “proof” and a number. The word proof goes back to medieval times and it describes a suit of armor that will withstand a gunshot wound. Today it just tells you how much alcohol there is in the bottle. But it’s a doubling up number. If it’s 80 proof that means that 40 percent of what’s inside the bottle is alcohol. Another nice thing to know about Armagnac is that it ages extremely well, but only for 50 years. So you don’t want to spend a lot of money on an Armagnac over 50; you’re just wasting your money. And waste is something that they absolutely hate in this part of France.

BURT WOLF: Across town is the restaurant Le Colombia it has been in business for over 100 years. These days it’s owned by Michel and Gerard Zezo. He does the cooking, she runs the dining room. It’s a family restaurant that offers specialties of the region. The Southwest of France is a center for the production of foie gras, the fattened liver of goose or duck. Women on local farms have been turning out foie gras for hundreds of years. And I’ve been eating it for about 50.

The Southwest of France is also the land of confits – duck, goose or pork that has been salted, cooked slowly and preserved. The confits is used as the basis for dozens of dishes.

The most famous dish made with confits is cassoulet. In Toulouse it’s made from confits, white beans, pork and sausages. There are variations in every family kitchen and restaurant for a hundred mile radius. 

For centuries people have passed through these villages searching for an inner peace, and in the process they have transformed the local landscape both physically and spiritually. But they have also come to appreciate the traditional aspects of the region. To visit this area is to encounter one of the most unspoiled parts of Europe. The Southwest is the secret soul of France.

For TRAVELS & TRADITIONS, I’m Burt Wolf.

Travels & Traditions: Czestochowa, Poland - #507

BURT WOLF: Throughout history people have traveled. They’ve traveled to find food, to do business or to make war. But until recently, there was no such thing as vacation travel. Tourism, as we know it today is less than 200 years old. But the desire to take a break and get away from home has been around for thousands of years and for most of those years a pilgrimage was the only acceptable reason for personal travel. You could get time off from work. You could get away from your friends and family. You could make new friends and in some cases a new family. You could see new things. And if you were up for it, you could also make an inner journey.

Like a regular trip, a pilgrimage brings you physically from one place to another and it takes time to complete. Pilgrims pass through territory that is not their own. They are in search of a goal, and the trip is controlled by their spiritual compass. Their hearts point the way.

This is the town of Czestochowa, about 80 miles north of Krakow.

It would be a simple provincial town centered on a wide street. Accept for one thing.

At the end of the street, rising above the medieval center of the town is the hill of Jasna Gora which means Bright Mountain, and on the summit of that hill is the monastery of the order of St. Paul the First Hermit.

Each year, for centuries, hundreds of thousands of pilgrims have come to Jasna Gora. Many make the journey from nearby Polish cities on foot, others travel half way around the world. Every year during the days surrounding the feast of the Assumption of the Virgin, on August 15th, the avenue of the Blessed Virgin Mary that connects the center of town with Jasna Gora is filled with a river of people.

The approach to the chapel is itself a pilgrimage marked by a series of portals, arches and gates that open into different spaces.

Finally, the room containing the miraculous image of the Virgin Mary and Child. The work is believed to have been painted in the Holy Land by St. Luke the Evangelist. It has made the monastery one of the most important Catholic shrines in Europe. Some pilgrims pass the picture on their knees, or walk by singing prayers. They all seek some special relationship to the Virgin Mary. 

While I was at Jasna Gora I was struck by the age range of the pilgrims. I expected the older generation to be present and even people of my own age but I was surprised at the extraordinary number of young men and women who visit the shrine.

On the first Sunday I was there over 100,000 people came through the monastery and over 30,000 were under 25 years of age.

THE TRADITION OF THE PAINTING

BURT WOLF: The story of the painting has a number of versions, but they all share a central theme. After the Virgin Mary was assumed into heaven, the followers of Christ asked St. Luke to paint a picture of her in order to preserve her image.

St. Luke took a piece of wood from a table that belonged to the Holy Family and covered it with a painting of the Virgin and child. The painting was taken from Jerusalem to Istanbul where it was credited with a series of miracles.

Six hundred years later, a Russian prince brought it to his castle. During the 1300s, Duke Ladislaus of Poland came to live in that same castle. While he was there, the Tatars attached. An arrow flew through a window and struck the picture of the Virgin. Suddenly, a great darkness engulfed the attackers, and they fled in fear.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: The story of the painting is set against a background of events that actually took place during the 1300s. The paining started out in Jerusalem, moved to Istanbul, from Istanbul to Russia, and from Russia to Poland. The movement was always from east to west and that is an essential aspect of the story. 

THE PAINTING AS POLITICAL HISTORY

BURT WOLF: There are many shrines with images of the Virgin Mary, but the one in Czestochowa is of particular importance, because in addition to its religious significance the painting has played a major role in the political history of Eastern Europe.

The Polish Kings and Dukes and warriors mentioned in the story of the Painting were real. And they were all interested in increasing the size and power of their kingdoms by conquering land that was to their east. The legend of the painting says that it was held by Orthodox Christians of the Eastern Church until it was taken west to Czestochowa.

By taking the picture from Russia in the East, to Poland in the West, Poland confirmed its eastern conquests.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: The fact that the painting was taken forcefully from Russia makes it even more valuable. No community would willingly give up an object that was performing miracles. The movement of the painting from east to west reflects the shift in power that was actually taking place.

BURT WOLF: When King Louis of Poland died in 1382, the Polish nobles offered his youngest daughter in marriage to Jagiello, the pagan leader of Lithuania. But the deal had a catch. Jagiello and all his subjects had to convert to Roman Catholicism. Jogiello accepted, was baptized, converted his people, united Poland and Lithuania and took the name Wladyslaw. It’s just like the story of the painting. Powerful elements in the east are converted and “rebaptised” into the western church. A powerful painting in the east is taken to a new home in the west.

But in the same way that the conflict between east and west did not end easily, neither did the story of the painting. There are a series of scars running across the face of the Madonna. Since the 15th century, they have been presented as having been made during an attack by reformers who opposed the use of images in the Church and undertook their destruction. The Virgin of Czestochowa was a perfect target.

During the 1200s, the idea of the Virgin suffering the same pains as Christ at the Crucifixion was common. More than any other figure in Christian tradition, the Virgin Mary is associated with the ability to understand pain and suffering. Visitors to Jasna Gora know that the Virgin will understand their pain.

MIRACLES

BURT WOLF: All pilgrimage sites are believed to be places where miracles once took place, where they still take place and where they might take place at any moment in the future. A site’s reputation as a place where miracles happen is an essential reason for attracting pilgrims. The painting of the Virgin Mary at Jasna Gora comes with a story that tells of miracles that go back to the very creation of the painting. The people who come here to see the picture want to be part of the story, to develop a special relationship to the picture. Often they want the relationship to include a miracle.

There are three essential elements that connect an image to a miracle. The first is the vow. The vow is addressed to the saint in the picture and includes a promise to go to a specific place. The Church is not involved and no record of the vow is needed to make it legitimate. You can often discover the content of a vow by watching the behavior of the person at the shrine. They may crawl towards the picture on their knees. They may prostrate themselves on the ground. This is not spontaneous behavior; they are doing what they promised to do.

The second element is the votive offering. A votive offering is a physical record showing that there has been a vow, and the vow has been performed. The votive offering is brought to the shrine by the pilgrim and proves that the promised visit has taken place. It makes it clear that visiting Jasna Gora was part of the process. Many votive offerings are placed into a box while making a donation.

The earliest offerings, which are kept near the painting, are gothic and silver plates engraved with religious scenes. They form a background to the painting and were donated by King Ladislaus in the 1400s.

There is also a tradition of dressing the painting of the Virgin that dates back to the time of its arrival at Jasna Gora. At first, valuable jewels were attached directly to the painting, but during the 1600s, a series of movable panels were placed over the painting and the jewels attached to the panels. Today, there are seven panels that completely cover the area of the Virgin’s clothing. They are called robes.

FATHER STANLEY A. TOMON ON CAMERA: There are three robes for decoration for the icon. The first robe was donated in the 19th Century. Then the other one I the middle was donated in 1966. Polish pilgrims donated valuable stones there are pure gold crowns for decoration, Mother and Child. And another third robe was donated at the beginning of the 20th Century.

Kings, common chiefs, the noblest men, the richest people from 7th and up to 19th Century donated very valuable gifts for our lady of Jasna Gora.

BURT WOLF: The votive offering always points to the image as the center of the holy place. They are part of the visual architecture of the shrine. The monastery itself was built as an offering to house the picture.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: The third element is where the miracle takes place. Many of them have taken place right here in Jasna Gora. But many of them have also taken place at great distances from the painting. The power of the Virgin Mary is not limited to one place. Her aid can be received anywhere in the world

BURT WOLF: But the aid is always related to the promised journey to this shrine and that promise must be fulfilled. Every thing starts with the vow and is completed by the offering at the shrine.

THE LIBRARY

BURT WOLF: Miracles are not just folk tales that are circulated in the neighborhood. These are events that are documented in great detail. The library at Jasna Gora has five texts dating from the 15th and 16th Centuries, which contain the stories of the miracles that have taken place in relationship to this shrine.

FATHER STANLEY A. TOMON ON CAMERA: In the beginning of the old library, monasteries library, took place in the 14th Century but this interior is a special building was prepared at the beginning 18th Century.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: What’s going on on the ceiling?

FATHER STANLEY A. TOMON ON CAMERA: Frescoes on the main board is the wisdom, the proverb of wisdom, Old Testament.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: What are those signs?

FATHER STANLEY A. TOMON ON CAMERA: There are some symbols about the vision all those books. There are over 11,000 old printed books.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Sacred scripture.

FATHER STANLEY A. TOMON ON CAMERA: Yeah the first part is the Sacra Scriptoria in Latin language, Bible.

Then another one, commentary to the Bible theology moral, philosophic, mathematic, mechanic even special books about history of the world, history of the charge, lawyer’s books and traditions. There is one of the most famous books, which we have here, is the Bible the writing is hand made.

BURT WOLF ON CMAERA: When was this made?

FATHER STANLEY A. TOMON ON CAMERA: It belongs to 16th Century.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Absolutely amazing.

FATHER STANLEY A. TOMON ON CAMERA: Covered skin made in wood valuable.

INTERCESSION

BURT WOLF: The saints are in the perfect place to give you a helping hand. They are in heaven in the presence of God. It’s a privileged spot where they can offer prayer for both the living and the dead. The idea that the saints could intercede on someone’s behalf is basic to the way people relate to them. The saints are next to the seat of power and can put in a good word for you or someone you love.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: Very often people want something from their relationship with a Saint. They want the Saint to intercede on their behalf. And very often paintings of Saints will show just how effective that Saint is at doing just that.

BURT WOLF: These miraculous powers are not only associated with specific saints but also with specific places. The images of the saints show holy people, but they also show holy places. The places shown in the pictures are not necessarily the places where these events occurred. They may instead show places were these saints are easy to contact -- like a local shrine.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: During the Middle Ages the activities of the church were closely tied to the annual calendar. Feasts, fasts, the celebration of things described in the Bible, specific days given over to honoring specific Saints pretty much controlled life in Christian communities. Pilgrimages were part of that structure. With certain pilgrimages and certain dates being more important than others.

BURT WOLF: The feast of the Virgin Mary was always a significant date, and there is considerable evidence that visits to Jasna Gora were extremely important during these Marian feasts. The high point was probably the feast of the Assumption on August 15th.

PILGRIMAGE OF THE KNIGHTS OF COLUMBUS

BURT WOLF: In order to consider taking a specific pilgrimage you need to be aware of the shrine and its legend. It is always a place that it is not in your home neighborhood. It requires you to think and then move across time and space.

A distinct feature of Polish Catholicism is a pilgrimage of considerable distance that is made on foot. They usually last a number of days. The trips give you a chance to meet new people, engage new thoughts and see new things. A pilgrimage is filled with new images both on the journey and at the sacred site. The most important image is always the image in the shrine.

The Virgin is in heaven, beyond our reach, but because of the picture she is not out of sight. Add her ability to hear our prayers and the circuit is almost complete. When the prayer is answered we are in touch with another world, beyond the one we live in now.

When I was at Jasna Gora a group of pilgrims from The Knights of Columbus in the United States arrived for a special mass.

DR. CARL A. ANDERSON ON CAMERA: On the occasion of this pilgrimage to the shrine of our lady of Czestochowa I am given the Pilgrim Metal here at the shrine to our Lady and in so doing I entrust my administration the order to her intersession.

Well, the Knights of Columbus you know are over 100 years old and we were founded in St. Mary’s Church. So for us we have always been close to Mary. Pope John Paul II, he has spoken on so many occasions about our lady of Czestochowa in Jasna Gora, so to grow closer to him, grow closer to her, to understand better our faith and to deepen that spiritual journey each of us must take. We decided to come here and see for ourselves. Well, you feel many emotions. You feel first, the emotion of being in solidarity with so many people of faith, to see the witness of their faith, how strong it is, how much this experience means to them and then with the eyes of faith to look back through history, through so many centuries of pilgrims who have come to this place and have been spiritually renewed.

Come, come, it’s a unique experience but it’s also a universal experience. That’s one of the tremendous things about it by being part of the history, by being part of this I would say solidarity with so many people you enrich yourself in a way that is hard to find in another place.

KEEPING IN TOUCH WITH YOUR SPIRIT

BURT WOLF: Every society has a series of places that are considered to be sacred and each place is devoted to a specific power. When you visit a sacred site it is easier to make contact with the power. Some sites are religious like Guadalupe, Jerusalem or Mecca. Some represent events in a nation’s history like the Alamo in Texas or the Vietnam memorial in Washington, DC. The trip to a place where both the trip and the destination have a supernatural importance to the traveler is what makes a pilgrimage.

Our most ancient societies believed that every aspect of life was controlled by an individual god, and that god lived in a specific place with an easily recognizable feature. It could be a mountain that stood higher than any mountain in the area or had an unusual shape, it could be a waterfall that seemed to come down from a spot that was connected to heaven, it could be a volcano. Whatever it was, it was dramatic and clearly the proper space to make contact with the supernatural.

But there were other places without any striking geographic feature that became sacred because they were associated with a specific person or event like the battlefields of the Civil War or the Lincoln Memorial in Springfield, Illinois. A visit to a grave is to a certain extent a visit to the person entombed there.

BURT WOLF ON CAMERA: You can make a pilgrimage to a world famous place like Jasna Gora or you can take a trip to a place that doesn’t mean much to anybody except you, like the grave of a family member. Either way they have the ability to put you in touch with your soul and your real feelings.

For TRAVELS & TRADITIONS, I’m Burt Wolf.